Quadrafire Mt. Vernon wall control bypass?

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pymoo

Member
Dec 11, 2010
19
Olathe, KS
My Mt. Vernon wall control is not working (I suspect it has gone bad). I have a new one order through the dealer, but it has taken weeks, with no replacement in sight. Does anyone know if there is a way to bypass the wall control just to get the stove on? If I could hard wire it to run (with pellets), or put a temporary thermostat on it, that would be a real help, now that winter is here.
 
The thermostat has just 3 wires (red, green, white). I know the Mt. Vernon AE is very advanced with respect to the fuel types and settings from the wall control, but I wonder if it is possible to just cross a couple of wires to get it to fire up, or use a simple mechanical thermostat to get by until the regular wall control eventually arrives? It is c-c-cold!
 
I own a Quad CB 1200. And currently looking at the Mt Vernon or Harmon P68. The Mt Vernon has to use the wall mount Thermostat from Quad. Whereas my current 1200 and the rest of the Quad line can use many different types of T-stats. My remote T-stat went bad last week and I just put a jumper wire on it for a couple days till new one arrived. (Jumper being a wire going from one terminal on the back of the stove to the other terminal) it will run constantly with this wire on. With the on board computer in your Mt Vernon I don't know if you can do this. I am new to this wonderful forum, but there are many other smart people on here that I hope can answer whether you can "jump it" or not. Good luck. Sorry so long winded.
 
I appreciate the response... The unique Mt. Vernon wall control is likely a plus when it is working, and a shortcoming when it's not (with no other alternatives). If anyone can suggest how to "jump it", I am ready to try anything to get it going in these subzero temps.
 
I wouldnt chance burning up the control box.
have you tried unplugging the stove or removing the face of the thermo?
 
Yep- I've removed the face of the thermostat multiple times, including checking the ribbon on the PCB that drives the display, but nothing worked. I've also power cycled it a few times too, but the wall control is definitely dead. I called Quadrafire with this question, but the person I spoke with did not think the Mt. Vernon AE could operate on any other wall control, and would not share any ideas for a jump start. So, I've been waiting for the new part for a couple weeks now, and it seems the dealer may have messed up the order, which has furthered the delay.
 
Has anyone tried to "hot wire" their Mt. Vernon AE? Maybe it is too risky?
 
Before you try to hotwire a AE you should price the electric control board. This isn't a cheap item.
Waiting for two plus weeks is a sign of a poor dealer in my book. They should have the part on hand as it is a known common problem the same as a igniter.
I noticed a while ago there was several comments of the worst customers. It seems the name and location of this dealer should be posted so potential customers can see what kind of service he is giving his customers.
 
rona said:
Before you try to hotwire a AE you should price the electric control board. This isn't a cheap item.
I agree, somewhere around $450, I'm not sure without looking it up. I have never tried to bypass it. With this cold weather you would think the dealer would give you a wall control out of a new stove or the one he has on display. Pretty silly he doesn't keep a $170 part on hand.
 
There is no way to bypass the wall control. The wall control and control board talk to each other while running and you need both. Weeks for a new one? The dealer should always have at least one in stock. How about they give you theirs from their own showroom display? Any dealer that does not stock critical parts in season should not be a dealer.
 
Thanks for the input! Luckily (for me), I have exercised enough restraint to NOT try to bypass the wall control.

I think the dealer means well, but is just disorganized... I'll let everyone know if the wall control turns out to be the issue if/when it ever arrives!
 
you should have 3.5 volts dc on the red and green wire at the t-stat and the white wire is the communication wire. don't cross the wires 750 for new control board. The wires used are a solid core wire and can break easily. I would check the wires from the board to the wire block then to the wall control I have seen them loosen up on the wire block and not send power to the wall control. also could be a break in the wire. There is a white wire tie on the wall control wires that can be put on to tight causing a blanking of the screen the field around the wires are causing wall control to go blank. check the connection loosen screws then retight
 
maglite67 said:
you should have 3.5 volts dc on the red and green wire at the t-stat and the white wire is the communication wire. don't cross the wires 750 for new control board. The wires used are a solid core wire and can break easily. I would check the wires from the board to the wire block then to the wall control I have seen them loosen up on the wire block and not send power to the wall control. also could be a break in the wire. There is a white wire tie on the wall control wires that can be put on to tight causing a blanking of the screen the field around the wires are causing wall control to go blank. check the connection loosen screws then retight
Wow, where are you buying that control board! MSRP is $530, not the $450 like I thought but still a long ways from 750.
 
With the wall control connected, the voltage at the wire block is only .15V across the red/green. However, when I disconnect one of the wires (thereby removing the wall control from the circuit), the voltage measures 3.3V, which seems within range. I'm assuming this means the wall control has a short somewhere?
 
are you testing at the wall control with face removed? Can not remember if .15v is normal or not but think it should read 3.5 all the time. also is the control board lights on? Could check the dc side of the power supply should be around 14-15V
 
I am testing at the wire block, where the wall control wires attach, not at the wall control with the face removed. It seems like the 3.5V should be everywhere, but when all three wires (leading to the wall control) are connected to the wire block, the voltage is .15V. With the red or green wire removed from the wire block (leading to the wall control), the voltage jumps to 3.3V!

The control board lights are on...
 
only other thing i can think to check is remove wall control from housing. make sure you don't have 2 wires shorted using your ohm meter and check to make sure you have continuity all the way to the wall control. First test red to white then green, then white to green with it disconnected from control board. Then pull all the wires off of the terminal block and put them on one. power off of course then goto wall control with the face removed you should have continuity on all posts tested if not one wire is bad if so replace wires and try new wall control. Also use the new base that comes with the new wall control don't just clip in new to old thats per quad.
 
I've only burned one season with my Mt. vernon. I'm on my second thermostat and third control board. I never had to wait for parts, my dealer always has them in stock. When this stove is running right it heats well. Is it normal when you touch the thermostat and the static shock makes the thermostat go blank. I try and ground myself before touching it. I've also nick named my Mt Vernon Hal.
 
Thanks again for the replies! When we returned from traveling over Christmas, the new wall control had arrived. I hooked it up and to my great pleasure, everything is working properly. I still wish there were a way to "hotwire" this unit for occasions when the wall control is not functioning, but hopefully the new wall control will prove to be reliable.

I did notice that some of the settings in the wall control do not seem to be accessible. These include the Properties screen, Convection Blower Speed screen and Elevation. Are these "dealer only" screens?

Last question- I am burning Rocky Mountain "Super Premium" wood pellets that are pine, with <=.5% ash content. Should I use the "Softwood Pellet" or "Hardwood Pellet" setting for the fuel selection? I assume "Utility Pellet" is not correct, since the manual says this is for high ash content pellets.
 
pymoo said:
Thanks again for the replies! When we returned from traveling over Christmas, the new wall control had arrived. I hooked it up and to my great pleasure, everything is working properly. I still wish there were a way to "hotwire" this unit for occasions when the wall control is not functioning, but hopefully the new wall control will prove to be reliable.

I did notice that some of the settings in the wall control do not seem to be accessible. These include the Properties screen, Convection Blower Speed screen and Elevation. Are these "dealer only" screens?

Last question- I am burning Rocky Mountain "Super Premium" wood pellets that are pine, with <=.5% ash content. Should I use the "Softwood Pellet" or "Hardwood Pellet" setting for the fuel selection? I assume "Utility Pellet" is not correct, since the manual says this is for high ash content pellets.
Glad to hear you got the stove running with the new thermostat.
You should be able to get into every setting unless Quad did something to the thermostat again or its not the correct one for the control board your running. Elevation and convection blower speed are 2 major things that are used to make this stove run correctly and put out lots of quiet heat. The proprieties screen is just information and nothing can be changed on that screen but you should be able to view it. SRV7000-451D is the latest wall control thermostat.
Call your dealer again and maybe Quad tech 1 800 234 2508
 
sounds like you have a mismatched wall control and control board. Wall control is a version or 2 newer then the control board. How old is your stove? Electrical warranty is for 2 years and I believe I was told once that you should change control board and wall control as a set on some of the older units.
 
Glad you got it going again. I have a Quad Castile insert, and reason I didnt buy a Mt Vernon was the dealer told me I would have to deal with that wall thing, and I prefer to have total control over the stove. I turn it on when I need it and off if I feel like doing so.

They should have a manual position on the Mt Vernon so you could run it without using that thermostat if you want to.
 
It would be nice to have a manual control override on the MT Vernon Ae' stoves. :coolmad:
The thermostat controls everything on this stove. The stove has no switches, buttons or knobs anywhere on it. :down:
 
I finally called Quadrafire today and spoke with Phil, who was friendly and knowledgeable. He confirmed that the wall control is most likely newer than the control board, which has caused the "newer" features to be unavailable. I'm not going to worry about it, since I got a fair deal on the insert and am just happy to have it up and running (using about 60lbs p/day with the recent bitter cold in KC). He also confirmed that I have the old style exhaust fan gasket (white instead of orange), so I will plan to change that out at the end of the season to be proactive.

My next project will be to fabricate some panels to fill the gap around the unit in the fireplace. I am planning on just using some plate steel, that I can paint or powder coat. I have started to make some templates using foam core.
 
Kinda sounds like what I said. Glad your satisfied, alot of people wouldn't be with that. They operate the same regardless of those "useless" features. The more bells and whistles you have the more you have to go wrong.
 
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