Question about hand splitting big logs.

[bboulier]

I am presently splitting some maple rounds that are 16-20 inches in depth and have a diameter of 2 x 3 feet. The maple is good solid wood. There seem to be two possible approaches. The first is to whack away at the outside and slowly move to the inside with the Fiskars Super Splitter. Sometimes when I get to the middle the wood is too dense to use the Fiskars, so I split it in half with a maul and wedges before resuming with the Fiskars. An alternative would be to try to split the round in half with the maul and wedges and then use the Fiskars. Of course, there are some gnarly ones that can only be split to usable size with maul and wedges. The Fiskars is no good for these ugly ones. Luckily, there don't seem to be too many. Any advice? Are there alternative methods?

 

[midwestcoast]

I've never had luck trying to split anything that size down the center. Working around the edges is what works for me.
If the round is ugly looking I'll cut it halfway through with the saw (noodling), then use a maul or wedge to split it the rest of the way. If it's really ugly I'll quarter it with the saw.

 

[basswidow]

For the really big ones, use the sledge and wedge to pie them, then use the fiskars. If it's got knots and is ugly, save it aside for a hydraulic splitter or use a chainsaw to noodle it.

Maple is hard for sure.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Sugar Maple can be a bi+ch to split by hand. Whack it a few times with the Monster Maul. If 5 shots don't pop it, use a couple of wedges and a 16# sledge. Once they are halved, the Monster Maul should take care of quartering.

Awesome burn time on Sugar Maple though!!

 

[peterc38]

Noodle 'em in half with chainsaw, then split.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I usually try to split them down the middle first with the Fiskars. The key is to come across in a straight line, do not just hit it in the same spot. I have split some huge rounds this way. If that does not work then go around the edges, sometimes turn the round upside down. It is funny how sometimes the other side works better. I never use a wedge and probably only get a couple of rounds a year I cannot split. I also do have a Monster Maul for the real tough ones. Elm is another story.

 

[Thistle]

Over the past 30 yrs I've had good luck with either quartering them first with maul or sledgehammer/wedges,or peeling off the edges into large flat plates.Then tackling the center squarish core.Depends on what size/shape pieces I want for the woodpile.For 9 yrs I gave up manual splitting when I bought a Speeco 20 ton horizontal/vertical splitter,selling it in Dec 2005 when I was short on cash for a few weeks.

Sure wish I kept it now,I'm not getting any younger :lol:

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I usually try to split them down the middle first with the Fiskars. The key is to come across in a straight line, do not just hit it in the same spot. I have split some huge rounds this way. If that does not work then go around the edges, sometimes turn the round upside down. It is funny how sometimes the other side works better. I never use a wedge and probably only get a couple of rounds a year I cannot split. I also do have a Monster Maul for the real tough ones. Elm is another story.

Good man! I think most folks think the big stuff splits hard because they have to give it more than one whack. So what if it takes 3 whacks instead of one? Look how much wood you have there. In the end you will not hit any more times and many times less. The trick is like Gold stated, if you are splitting down the center, hit the first time on the far side. Then hit closer to you. Hit again closer. It will come apart.

Of course there is nothing wrong with sledge and wedge either and I've done many of those this way. Now I've graduated to the hydraulics but was forced there. Now that I have the hydraulic, I wish I'd had it sooner.

 

[bboulier]

I usually try to split them down the middle first with the Fiskars. The key is to come across in a straight line, do not just hit it in the same spot. I have split some huge rounds this way. If that does not work then go around the edges, sometimes turn the round upside down. It is funny how sometimes the other side works better. I never use a wedge and probably only get a couple of rounds a year I cannot split. I also do have a Monster Maul for the real tough ones. Elm is another story.

It is funny how some will split on one side and not the other. I usually think I can figure out which side will split best, but some rounds surprise me.

 

[jlove1974]

everything that I have ever split by hand that big was with an 8lb maul.
I usually look for the split or crack in the center and align that up with the direction I am facing.
alot of the time if you hit that natural split, the whole thing will crack apart.
Of course I am basing this mostly on large red oak, which may be easier to split than maple

 

[Thistle]

If they're really tough & wont split after 7-8 swings of the maul,I lay them on the side & rip 'em lengthwise with the saw.It's what I do 99% of the time when I'm roughing out bowl blanks or slabs from logs 2-3 ft long anyway.Plus those long shavings are great mulch (except Black Walnut is a no-no,the juglone in the wood/bark is a natural weed killer,really stunts the growth of most all garden plants,especially tomatoes & apple trees). Just make sure you leave a bit of room,bar should be a few inches longer than what you're cutting,otherwise chain & sprocket will jam up & freeze.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

One other trick is to just cut an inch or two down from the top with a chainsaw. Then hit that spot with the maul/fiskars and you will have much better luck. I am sure a wedge will work too.

 

[Mad Tom]

Years ago I tried splitting 4-4.5 foot rounds out of huge sugar maple.It was gnarly. My mauls basically bounced off of it. Gave up on it and borrowed a splitter. Had to build up some ramps out of firewood to roll them up. Of course the splitter had one wedge on it and it basically cracked the round and got hung up. Had to beat it off with a sledge then reverse the log to get at the crack from the other direction. That worked half the time. Had to keep rolling and splitting. Moving the slabs around was a biotch also.My back still hurts.

 

[amateur cutter]

I'm a big fan of noodling, quite often I prefer to split my wood onsite to save extra handling here. I'll cut multiple slits in larger rounds to facilitate quicker splitting by hand, & less lifting of heavy pieces into the trailer. I should add that I cut my wood to 2' in length due to the very deep firebox on my furnace, so a 30" to 40" round can get a little tough to split with the maul. 064 with 25" bar & 3/8 skip chain makes a very efficient saw for noodling. The noodles make good fire starter as well. A C

 

[5654684]

If you have plenty of wedges, go at it. I quarter 48" rounds and then halve them again for the splitter.

 

[bboulier]

Thanks for all the good ideas. I'll try several and report back on what seems to work best. I I think I will first try a couple of GolfandWoodNut's ideas: (1) splitting across the round and (2)partially cutting with a saw before trying Fiskars /or Maul + Wedges. I only have a small electric chainsaw at this time, so that noodling is out of the question. Even better, since my sons will be over for Christmas, I will let them perform some experiments!

 

[NH_Wood]

everything that I have ever split by hand that big was with an 8lb maul.
I usually look for the split or crack in the center and align that up with the direction I am facing.
alot of the time if you hit that natural split, the whole thing will crack apart.
Of course I am basing this mostly on large red oak, which may be easier to split than maple

Almost always in my experience! Cheers!

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

everything that I have ever split by hand that big was with an 8lb maul.
I usually look for the split or crack in the center and align that up with the direction I am facing.
alot of the time if you hit that natural split, the whole thing will crack apart.
Of course I am basing this mostly on large red oak, which may be easier to split than maple

Almost always in my experience! Cheers!

Exponentially

 

[gzecc]

Splitting by hand is always easier when starting from the bottom of the tree. If its a Y trunk, set the trunk upside down and swing in the direction of the top of the tree (down of course). Think about the structure. It was (formed) designed to prevent breaking from top to bottom, not bottom to top!

 

[woodchip]

Splitting by hand is always easier when starting from the bottom of the tree. If its a Y trunk, set the trunk upside down and swing in the direction of the top of the tree (down of course). Think about the structure. It was (formed) designed to prevent breaking from top to bottom, not bottom to top!

I'm just having one of those "Why didn't I think of that" moments......

I always leave my awkward logs till last, and there is quite a collection out there.

Off outside now for some fun with my wood grenade and maul

 

[Duetech]

Splitting by hand is always easier when starting from the bottom of the tree. If its a Y trunk, set the trunk upside down and swing in the direction of the top of the tree (down of course). Think about the structure. It was (formed) designed to prevent breaking from top to bottom, not bottom to top!

+1. And especially pine. I have split some very gnarly oak and maple knots by centering them heart out from the bottom with the maul and wedges. I only own two wedges but I do use a splitting maul so that is like a wedge at large.

 

[Flatbedford]

I usually try to split them down the middle first with the Fiskars. The key is to come across in a straight line, do not just hit it in the same spot. I have split some huge rounds this way. If that does not work then go around the edges, sometimes turn the round upside down. It is funny how sometimes the other side works better. I never use a wedge and probably only get a couple of rounds a year I cannot split. I also do have a Monster Maul for the real tough ones. Elm is another story.

What he said, except no monster maul here. I have also been fortunate to have run into mostly Red and White Oak which both split pretty easily no matter how big they are. The little bit of Maple I have worked with has been tougher. I think I even used sledge and wedge last time.

 

[CTYank]

One other trick is to just cut an inch or two down from the top with a chainsaw. Then hit that spot with the maul/fiskars and you will have much better luck. I am sure a wedge will work too.

Yup. Hybrid approach.
If multiple hits along a diameter won't do it, nor will "daisying" chunks off the outside,
"noodling" a bit along the outside or ripping a groove a few inches into a cut face for maul or wedge will get most all of them done.
Forks/notches you noodle all the way.

 

[bboulier]

Looks like flexibility is the key. I think CTYank has it right: keep trying until you find something that works. Best thing is that I now have a lot more ideas to try.