Quick fixes that are not a good solution and my not be safe.

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amps2amps

New Member
Dec 23, 2008
6
Fingerlakes NY
Had a problem with my Breckwell pellet stove filling the burn pot with heavy ash in as little as one night. Needless to say I had to clean it in less then every 24 hours to keep using the stove. I don't have a fresh air intake piped outside. Although I probably should. But to take care of the problem I have ,I use a small 4" desk top fan behind the stove at the fresh air intake. It's probably set 10 inches away from the intake pipe and provides plenty of fresh air to burn the pellets much more efficiently. Works super now!
 
Im moving post from other topics to here.
 
amps2amps said:
Had a problem with my Breckwell pellet stove filling the burn pot with heavy ash in as little as one night. Needless to say I had to clean it in less then every 24 hours to keep using the stove. I don't have a fresh air intake piped outside. Although I probably should. But to take care of the problem I have ,I use a small 4" desk top fan behind the stove at the fresh air intake. It's probably set 10 inches away from the intake pipe and provides plenty of fresh air to burn the pellets much more efficiently. Works super now!
This is not a good idea. If you are having to force draft your stove to make it burn then you have a draft problem.

Could be
Air control not open enough
Ashpan door or main door is not sealing.
Venting not clear or not installed proper IE long vertical runs without a rise or to many bends in pipe
combustion blower not turning full RPM
Combustion chambers and ash traps not clear.
Heat Exchange tubes not clear

and the one a lot of people miss on the Breckwell P24 the small slits at the left and right of the stove just above the heat exchange tubes. if they are closed up with crusty ash the stove will burn lazy because that is were all the combustion.
 
hearthtools said:
Combustion chambers and ash traps not clear.

and the one a lot of people miss on the Breckwell P24 the small slits at the left and right of the stove just above the heat exchange tubes. if they are closed up with crusty ash the stove will burn lazy because that is were all the combustion.

I agree with this part of what Rod said....sounds simply like a case of a dirty stove, IMO.
 
How about by-passing the vacuum switch or any temperature snap disc for a longer period of time than just testing it?

You should never bypass a safety system of the stove unless you are only testing to see if that is the problem, and while any safety is bypassed the stove should be monitored.

If by-passing a safety fixes the stove, usually there is a reason the safety system is not letting the stove work properly. Could just be really dirty, or a whole mess of other problems.
 
jtp10181 said:
How about by-passing the vacuum switch or any temperature snap disc for a longer period of time than just testing it?

You should never bypass a safety system of the stove unless you are only testing to see if that is the problem, and while any safety is bypassed the stove should be monitored.

If by-passing a safety fixes the stove, usually there is a reason the safety system is not letting the stove work properly. Could just be really dirty, or a whole mess of other problems.

yes if a limit switch is bad you will need to bypass it to get the unit to work
and yes not to be ran without close attention until you get a replacement

Pressure switches (vacuume) IMO on older stoves cause more problems that is helps and some times it is ok to just bypass it as long as you clean and inspect your venting and combustion chambers often and not neglect them.
 
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