Ramps, Trailer Dolly, and Log Splitter

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velvetfoot

Minister of Fire
Dec 5, 2005
10,202
Sand Lake, NY
I'm trying to get back mentally into the swing of things. Here is a current picture of a setup I used a couple years ago. The splitter can be dragged around by hand with a dolly made for the purpose. It is just a little higher than the support strut, so the strut can be pinned into position with no strain. The dolly can be tipped forward to release it, if splitting vertically. If splitting horizontally, I think I just left it on the ramps.

What is a strain, though, is dragging that splitter around up a hill or for any distance. I measured yesterday, and the hitch is about 21" off the ground, so, with the small wheels on the riding mower, I'd need something like that Hi-Hitch to get up that high for a level splitter. Downside is the Hi-Hitch kills the pin hitch capability. Maybe a plate underneath?
 

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I just wrap my safety chain around the beam then hook the S hook into my Snow plow weight bracket.
 
If you have a way to pull the splitter, like a lawn mower tractor or atv, you could put a trailer wheel on the front. That is, the wheels that are usually on the front of boat trailers. There is a jack so you can also jack them up or down by turning a crank at the top. I've done that to ours so that I can pull the splitter out to the pile and unhook. Then when I want to move the splitter it will be easier to just give a tug on it rather than having to lift the front before pulling it ahead. Maybe I'll get a picture of it.
 
Thank Dennis. Ideally, I'd like to get it so mobile that I can tow out to the end of the driveway, split, and then return it by dark.

I took a closer look at the Hi-Hitch, and it looks like my fuel tank will be in the way, so it's a no-go.
 
Is that even road legal without fenders over the tires and no bumper?
 
No bumper required. Lots of people sell fender and light kits for log splitters.

BUT, the hubs are rated for 35mph and the axle is welded directly to the fluid tank. I've never towed mine for distances more than 1/4 mile or speeds above 15mph. Any more than that I and strap it down on a 4x8 utility trailer.

(Only problem I ever had doing it this way was being charged the two axle trailer toll rate on my EZ Pass by the New York Thruway because the splitter had its own axle!!!)
 
Gotcha. I was thinking wheels and hitch was for towing on the roads, not just moving around the property.

The splitter my Dad built had the engine, tank, and cylinder on the back part of it so it's not hard at all to move around by lifting the front and pulling it by hand. Has normal car tires on it as well so it's fine to tow on the highway.
 
There really is a lot of weight on the hitch. Maybe less, I guess, if I extend the ram, but still a lot. This complicates the whole hitch-on-a-lawnmower subject.
 
I agree. Almost like the hitch would need to go on the other end instead.
 
If you're going to hand job it, put an extension on the trailer dolly so that it lifts higher.

I just use my yard tractor.
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I've seen adjustable height dollies but not extensions. I wish I could get the splitter level off the back of my tractor, but I need a 21" height, and the only hitch I've found so far with that height is the Hi-Hitch, but where the braces bolt on the back plate is where my gas tank protrudes (it's under the seat as opposed to under the hood).
 
i definatly need one of those dollies. lifting up the splitter and dragging is getting old.
 
velvetfoot said:
I've seen adjustable height dollies but not extensions. I wish I could get the splitter level off the back of my tractor, but I need a 21" height, and the only hitch I've found so far with that height is the Hi-Hitch, but where the braces bolt on the back plate is where my gas tank protrudes (it's under the seat as opposed to under the hood).
A length of 1/4" x 2" bar stock and a drill is all you'd need to add some height to the one you have. You could bend the steel with the splitter.

As for the tractor, if you made a hitch using a 2" hitch receiver, you could use a variety of offsets flipped upside down to get you any height you need. Mind you, if you had the tools to make your own, you would be able to modify the hi-hitch. I assume you mean the following. Looks like it would be trivial to drill a couple of holes to move the two braces.

HighHitch_500.jpg
 
Admittedly, I'm only thinking of this in earnest now, potentially less than two weeks before the logs arrives, rather than over the winter.
However, mounting the bars from a hi-hitch might not be trivial, given the massive 2.5 gallon tank that Ariens (Husqvarna) brags about.

Also, given the large tongue weight of the splitter, I'm concerned about any kind of hitch with less robustness and points of connection than yours, which I would take, even giving up the horizontal splitting and taking just the secure transport to and from the splitting site (with the attendant set up and break down.) Although, I have seen at least one manufacturer, SPEECO, recommend not splitting while hitched up, but mine says nothing about it.

Edit: I wonder if I might not somehow attach the trailer dolly to the mower for more stress-free, albeit long-wheelbase, towing. By changing the angle of the ball support brace by relocating the hole on its handle bar, it could come in at a compatible angle with the existing pin hitch, and could be attached in some fashion in that location.
 

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I was wrong-the angle on the dolly is not changeable-it's all welded.
A bathroom scale read 139 lbs when the splitter hitch was put on it, with the ram retracted.
 
velvet, would the one I have work for you, because that piece is $50 plus shipping. Since there are two of you interested, we might be able to make mine work--I need to be at $90 to break even, which would be $45 each plus shipping--that would still be cheaper than what you're looking at (above) and give you both the pin and ball connections as well as leave the bagger on (if you've got one). Lemme know.

S
 
velvetfoot said:
You know, don't think this hitch will fit the back of my riding mower.


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Doesn't it look like it would? You will have to drill the two bolt holes at the bottom and the one at the top??
 
But it'd extend to the second plate over the bumped out section to where the existing bolt is (holding on ? on the other side), plus, though it's not shown, I don't think there's enough space on either side of the existing pin hitch hole to drill additional holes.
 
Now you need a garden tractor with a 3 point hitch. Raise and lower at will.
 
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