RE: Jotul Oslo . . . Fixing the sticky air control

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firefighterjake

Minister of Fire
Jul 22, 2008
19,588
Unity/Bangor, Maine
I think I posted something along these lines last year or the year before . . . but when I went back to check the old thread I couldn't see the photos . . . and since I ended up doing this last Sunday I figured I might as well post this again for any newbie Oslo users.

The Problem: Ash gets into the doghouse where the air control is and makes it so that the air control lever does not move as easily or it binds up, making it a little harder to open and close the air control. Rather than resorting to using a 5 lb. ballpeen hammer to move the lever, try this fix.

Tools You'll Need: Gloves if the stove is still hot, 10 mm socket and wrench, graphite powder from local hardware store, brush or something similar to move away the ash

Time: 5-15 minutes

Skill Level: So simple even a dumb Maine hick of a firefighter can do this
 

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Step 1: After an overnight or overday fire or when the fire has gone out open the front door of the Oslo and shovel/brush away the loose ash in front of the doghouse at the front of the stove.
 

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Firefighterjake if these is an annual service you are performing on your Oslo I would recommend getting the new air control level. It was redesigned about 3 years ago because of sticking issues. It is something your dealer should be able to get for you at no cost. All Oslo's made after 2008 have this new style air control lever. When did you get your stove?
 
Step 3: Use the 10 mm socket to loosen and remove the two bolts and washers holding the doghouse in place. If the stove is still hot you may wish to use gloves . . . also be careful that you don't drop the bolt or washers into the firebox and coals . . . like I did.
 

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Step 4: Remove the doghouse and set it aside . . . and then take the graphite powder and apply a liberal amount to the slide mechanism . . . I try to get the two sides and underneath the slide plate. The picture is a bit deceiving as it appears as though I'm applying graphite powder to the top of the plate . . . blame that on me trying to take a photo while doing the proper action.
 

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At this point the slide mechanism should glide wicked easily back and forth . . . if not, apply more graphite . . . eventually it will slide very, very easily with the gentlest of touch.

Last step . . . just reverse things . . . put the doghouse back on and re-attach bolts and get the fire going.
 
jotulguy said:
Firefighterjake if these is an annual service you are performing on your Oslo I would recommend getting the new air control level. It was redesigned about 3 years ago because of sticking issues. It is something your dealer should be able to get for you at no cost. All Oslo's made after 2008 have this new style air control lever. When did you get your stove?

I think it might have been in 2008 . . . at the time I asked the dealer about the redesigned lever and he said this was supposedly the fixed one.
 
Yeah you are right on the edge of the fixed line then. Let me ask you, does it have an almost semi-circle bend in it? If it does it is the newer slide. If not I would get the new one. They are much better to use and less likely to get sticky on you.
 
Does this procedure also apply to the F600? The air control lever has been giving me problems ever since I've had the stove - about 4 years. The French supplier merely gives the Gallic shrug, upon enquiry about a replacement or modified lever...
 
Deadcalm said:
Does this procedure also apply to the F600? The air control lever has been giving me problems ever since I've had the stove - about 4 years. The French supplier merely gives the Gallic shrug, upon enquiry about a replacement or modified lever...
Deadcalm, yes! The issue was with both stoves. They now install them at time of manufacture. I would let your dealer know that there was a change made. Maybe they can can order one for you to replace the one you currently have. I know state side most dealers get them in for free since it was a manufacture issue. Not sure what the standard is over the pond.
 
Gotta tell you, Jake, I did this earlier this heating season and it simply makes a world of difference in the slide. Well worth doing. :)
 
I need to do mine....
 
jotulguy said:
Firefighterjake if these is an annual service you are performing on your Oslo I would recommend getting the new air control level. It was redesigned about 3 years ago because of sticking issues. It is something your dealer should be able to get for you at no cost. All Oslo's made after 2008 have this new style air control lever. When did you get your stove?
Mine was made after 2008, and it still sticks. So far, though, I lubed it once midway through last season and it's still fine now. Maybe it will last more than a season.
 
jotulguy said:
Yeah you are right on the edge of the fixed line then. Let me ask you, does it have an almost semi-circle bend in it? If it does it is the newer slide. If not I would get the new one. They are much better to use and less likely to get sticky on you.

Hmmm . . . can't remember . . . even though I just did this three days ago . . . my mind is fried from drinking too much Moxie over the years. ;)
 
jotulguy said:
Yeah you are right on the edge of the fixed line then. Let me ask you, does it have an almost semi-circle bend in it? If it does it is the newer slide. If not I would get the new one. They are much better to use and less likely to get sticky on you.

Do you have a picture of this? My stove was purchased 2/10 and the lever is 'straight'. I can't picture what you are talking about......
 
When my dealer installed my stove he mentioned that the air control levers can get stuck, but he took a screw driver and bent it a little bit and said that will fix the problem for good. I couldn't see to well what he bent, but so far after a few months of burning I haven't noticed any change in the force required for the air control.
 
Got my stove in November 2007 and replaced the lever a couple months after. It still sticks to this day and every couple of months it gets a squirt of liquid grease through the opening in front. Seems to work fine. I think the problem is in the casting.

Jim
 
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