Ready to go next year if cut now?

[Yarzy]

Everyone,

I am getting ready to order for next year 5 cords of mixed hardwood. I want to know if I am kidding myself if I think I am going to have good luck come September/October 2011 with burning this wood. This is my first year with a wood burning stove and since I was late to the game, I had to order "ready to go" mixed hardwood in late December. The wood is pretty wet when it burns for the most part (I think it is about 27% average), so I just dont want to run into the same issue next year.

If I get this stuff stacked over the course of Feb, do you think it will be ready to go for next season? Is that enough time? I also should mention I have a lot of living trees on my property so direct sun on the stack is going to be very tough. Will this be a huge issue?

THANKS!

 

[Adios Pantalones]

Most hardwoods if split and stacked now will be fine. Exceptions may include oak and the densest woods like osage, though if split small enough they may be OK

 

[Wood Duck]

You'll be far better off next year than you are this year. It would be nice to be farther than a year ahead, but one year is way above average. Sun is nice on the wood, but wind is even better. If you have a spot where some wind will get through the trees, that is where I'd stack the wood.

 

[woodchip]

If I had space, I would try to get two years supply of wood in now, and then order a year at a time each winter.

You will then have the advantage of regularly burning older wood

 

[smokinj]

GOOD TO GO!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Everyone,

I am getting ready to order for next year 5 cords of mixed hardwood. I want to know if I am kidding myself if I think I am going to have good luck come September/October 2011 with burning this wood. This is my first year with a wood burning stove and since I was late to the game, I had to order "ready to go" mixed hardwood in late December. The wood is pretty wet when it burns for the most part (I think it is about 27% average), so I just dont want to run into the same issue next year.

If I get this stuff stacked over the course of Feb, do you think it will be ready to go for next season? Is that enough time? I also should mention I have a lot of living trees on my property so direct sun on the stack is going to be very tough. Will this be a huge issue?

THANKS!

Zarzy, that is tough trying to burn that wood and you'll appreciate having better wood next year.

As for your question of enough time, that depends. It depends upon the type of wood you get. Most wood should be okay if you get it now but any oak will beg for more time. But you also need to handle it right to make the best of the situation. Here is what I'd do in your situation:

1. Get some poles, landscape timbers, or something similar to stack the wood on. Some like to use pallets but I don't like them at all. It is a matter of choice for sure but I also think if you use poles or timbers or RR ties then you should get better air circulation under the wood. Whatever you use, make sure the firewood does not touch the ground.

2. Find a good place to stack the wood. Not too close to the house or other buildings if at all possible. Stack it where it will get wind and you want the wind to hit the sides of the stacks. Sun is nice, but wind is more important.

3. Stack it in single rows but don't try to stack it over 4' high else ground heave from frost might see you out there re-stacking. Make sure you leave plenty of space between rows. Air circulation is what you need.

4. To cover or not to cover? Here we do not cover the wood the first year. We leave it uncovered until late fall or early winter; just before snow flies. If you get lots of rain in your area, then by all means cover it. IMPORTANT: Cover only the top of the piles! Remember that you need air circulation so leave those sides and ends uncovered so the wind can dry the wood.

5. If you have a wood shed, do not put wood in there until next fall. Leave that wood outside where Mother Nature will help you.

If at all possible, get 2 or 3 years ahead on your wood supply and 99% of all wood burning problems will be taken care of and you also won't be worrying about creosote.

Enjoy the heat.

 

[ddklahr]

I have a more unique storage "shed" for our wood supply. We have two grain bins on our place that have concrete floors in them. We throw all of our wood into these bins (don't stack it) and in the summer tiime it feels like a sauna inside of them. We have the walk-in door open but that is it. I was worried initially if there would be enough air flow inside the bin, but the wood that I split a year ago is testing between 8-12% moisture right now. I am wondering if our hot summers (90-100 degrees) is "baking" the wood and drying it out in a faster time frame? Any thoughts?

 

[wood-fan-atic]

Sounds logical to me. A walk-in kiln....nice. :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[wood spliter]

I do a year out and burn good. There is just not enough room for 2 years out. I try to have next years split in early fall which gives me 2-3 extra months with out hearing to much from the wife.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have a more unique storage "shed" for our wood supply. We have two grain bins on our place that have concrete floors in them. We throw all of our wood into these bins (don't stack it) and in the summer tiime it feels like a sauna inside of them. We have the walk-in door open but that is it. I was worried initially if there would be enough air flow inside the bin, but the wood that I split a year ago is testing between 8-12% moisture right now. I am wondering if our hot summers (90-100 degrees) is "baking" the wood and drying it out in a faster time frame? Any thoughts?

You must have ventilation of some type. Put grain in there and you get tons of mold unless you take steps to prevent it and then you'll still likely get some mold.

I can not imagine putting some firewood in there that is maybe 35-40% and expecting it to dry. That moisture has to go somewhere. For sure the baking will have some effect on the drying but as stated, the moisture has to go somewhere.

I'd still think it would be better to dry the wood and then store it in the bins.

 

[ddklahr]

I don't run any fans, but there would be a 2-3"air gap at the top of the bin where the roof and the sides come together that would allow air to escape. I do know it is about 10 degrees warmer inside the bin even when it is 90-100 degrees outside. It really gets hot inside and will occasionally see condensation on the inside of the bin roof. I do think our hot summers have alot to do with our drying process. As long as it works, I try not to worry about it.