Removing fans out of the old Pepin?

[Doublea88]

It's early here in CT, need Kroossers exp on this one. lol. Been busy but it's great to be back on the site 2 questions on this thread. Upon shutting stove down the other evening and cleaning etc.. It started to squeal on 1 of the motors, I'm assuming it was the room fan since it took awhile for it to start blowing? I've never taken the fans completly out of stove, I will be giving it it's heavy duty cleaning today and removing the fans. Can the fan housings be split on these to get at internal parts and I read on here awhile back about type of oil to use for electrical equipment? I would like to take this route first before getting a new fan?

 

[jtakeman]

I have a similar convection fan in my Omega. I know what you mean about the inner blower wheel. You just can't get anything in there to clean it. I have been keeping it clean with compressed air. I attack the blower from the outlet side were you can see the whole blower wheel with a thin paint brush first. Then I hit it with the air gun. Some lube and shes good to go.

If its real bad you can disassemble it. But you only need to remove the blower wheels. Remove the ring at the inlet. Use a torq to remove the blower wheel(access thru the the blower outlet). Slide the wheel out and clean it. Becareful to note which end of the blower wheel is out. Whip out the housing. Slide the wheel back in and center it once you have the ring back in place.

Hope this helps!

 

[Doublea88]

:down: Nope Just getting in and looking online to order 1 soon completely took apart the whole stove and I should've checked that fan first? After blowing the stove out, removing the 2 fans and cleaning the chamber, oiling etc... I grabbed the room fan and gave it a spin and???? NOTHING, froze solid! Pop's stopped by and we took it apart but the bearings are shot, gave it a soak with oil and tryed to jump if off ext cord and it wont turn over? Oh well, gas boiler is fired up for the first time this year and I'm on my way to finding 1 online? I saw your link to CHS and they want $128 for it? Wonder if I can find it cheaper? #7021-6381 part #???? I would like to say, thanks again for all the info. on here. I don't post much, but I do alot of READING....LOL... talk to ya's soon

 

[Doublea88]

Also, It aint chugging at all now. lol :down: :down:

 

[krooser]

Good luck with that old stove...

 

[Doublea88]

Well Sir, I'm sure all will be good once the blower motor comes in. After careful review I came to the conclusion it was from #1 being old and #2 condensation rusting the shafts and also probaly getting to the bearings? Worked on it for a couple hours and with all the lube in the garage!! Could not get it to free up? I must say though, I bet I got the cleanest Pepin east of the river.. LOL.. Just wish it were running Thank heavens it's 50f out....

 

[Doublea88]

Instead of starting new thread, I'll post this here? Question for the pellet gods?? Upon taking stove apart today and the fact that I've had it a little over a year now. I noticed last year when I did a good overhaul on it that the previous owner did'nt keep it that clean. I gave it a complete cleaning twice last year and once I removed the convection fan today I noticed RUST? I removed the bracket holding the fan in place and scraped it all out and gave it a good coat of stove paint! I believe this would be from condensation over the summer? Do any of you guys do any special treatments in the summer to alleviate this problem? IE; remove vent pipe and plug hole? Or put an insert in the pipe? Pop's n I where baffled at the amount of rust around the bootom of the convection fan area? I know it is an old unit but I did not think it would corrod this bad? No, the stove was not laft with pellets in the hopper either. Weird???

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I always plug both my OAK and the vent after cleaning the stove out in the spring.

Then a coat of oil (there are several you can use), a wipe down, and another finer coat of oil to all firebox surfaces and the burn pot.

I have a basement install when the stove gets shut down, the dehumidifier gets turned on.

The first thing done before starting the stove is to wipe down all of the surfaces you applied oil to, then unplug the vent and OAK, load it up, look it all over, plug it back in.

Cross fingers and hit the on button.

 

[Doublea88]

Thanks My OAK is open to the kitchen (20x20) but I figured after reading some prior threads that plugging the vent is a good idea. Did not do that this summer (Newbeeeee) but will def. do it this year Funny, what brought me to this was, at the beginning of heating it up this year I did my first weekly cleaning and noticed scale in the firebox section of stove, since i do not have the fake brick my wife was like???? WHAT"S THAT???? OOOOHHHH BOY! lol... gave it a hit with the wire wheel n some stove black n all was good but I was thinking Hmmmm? Has to condensation? Now I need to find some inlay for inside the firebox? then she will be happy... lol

 

[imacman]

Thanks My OAK is open to the kitchen (20x20) but I figured after reading some prior threads that plugging the vent is a good idea.......

Not sure what you mean here, but yes, stuffing a rag up the exhaust pipe is a good idea, and seal off the OAK inlet with duct tape. I also put 2 silica gel moisture absorbers in the firebox:

www.amazon.com/HYDROSORBENT-SG-40-Gram-Silica-Gel/dp/B0001EJIXK

 

[Doublea88]

Just that it's open draft into the kitchen. It is not intaked to outside, I have enough intake air through the kitchen space, that I don't need it from an outside air source.

 

[imacman]

IMO, an OAK that uses outside air instead of indoor air does 2 things:

It reduces the problem of cold outside air being pulled into the house through cracks, crevices, etc. while the stove is running.

It also stops the stove from sending air that you already paid to heat back into the stove and up the exhaust.

I would never run any pellet stove without one, but hey, that's just me.

 

[FordMastertech]

IMO, an OAK that uses outside air instead of indoor air does 2 things:

It reduces the problem of cold outside air being pulled into the house through cracks, crevices, etc. while the stove is running.

It also stops the stove from sending air that you already paid to heat back into the stove and up the exhaust.

I would never run any pellet stove without one, but hey, that's just me.

Ditto X2

 

[Doublea88]

IDK on that one?? 400 sq ft of open space? I can put boilers in smaller places that do not require that much air intake. Anyhow, I heard baking soda works also for moisture, going to have to get that damn fan first though.

 

[krooser]

Your stove didn't have much paint on it from the factory. Last season I painted all the removable panels and even squirted some inside the rear of the stove as best I could...

An OAK is a good thing... keeps drafts out of the equation AND makes sure the stove receives adequate fresh air to operate efficiently. Look at all those high efficiency furnaces... they ALL have an OAK... there's a reason.

 

[Doublea88]

I agree if it's a condensing boiler or high eff furnace. I have an open crawl space under kitchen, I will grab some pipe from basement and install 1? Can't hurt and it will give me some new draft points to play with... I've spent the morning trying to find the best $$ for my Fasco A212, been cross referencing with Dayton, Jakel and now I'll try AO Smith?? Supply houses all closed today, hope I find one tomorrow? Don't want to order online and wait, want to get stove running AAARRRRGGGHHHH.. Wifey likes a warm kitchen... lol...