Sawing crooked

[mayhem]

Craftsman 18" 42cc saw. I've taken to sharpening the chains myself and I'm guessing I'm doing a poor job of it. When making a cut the saw will curve to the left as I cut downward into the wood...I'm guessing that since the chain isn't just popping off the bar that the bar is not the problem. I've using a hand file with a visual guide, but no jig type sharpener. Its the right file for my application according the chain info (I forget the size, but I know its the right one). The process I'm using is to start from the master link and go through the entire set of teeth in one direction, same number of swipes from the file in one direction only, flip the saw around and do the teeth in the other direction, same number of strokes, doing my best to keep even pressure.

So what am I doing wrong? Should I scrap the file and get a jig based one so my angle is more consistent? How do I know which side teeth are the problem?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

If the saw cuts to the left the right side is the issue. On a handsaw I'd run a stone down the right side and remove some set. Not sure how to fix it on a chainsaw. It might be worth your time to take the chain to the dealer and have them clean it up on their grinder/sharpener.

Matt

 

[wood spliter]

It takes time , hand filing is an art. I think a jig would help but I have never used one so I'm not 100% on them. The advice from the previous post is probably the best for now. Then try again when its dull. Keep at it you'll get it!

 

[LLigetfa]

It could well be the hand sharpening but I would test the bar first to rule that out. Pull the bar, flip it over and clamp it in a vise. Lay a coin on the edge and see if it sits perpendicular to the bar. If it doesn't, file the bar until it does.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Had the same exact problem with mine, and I think we have the same saw.
I checked/flipped the bar, and it was true.
I figured out my issue is that I am right handed, so when sharpening the chain...looking at the saw from the rear, I had a lot more pressure going right to left (sharpening left hand side) then I had sharpening left to right (right hand teeth).
I tried a different approach when hand filing to make sure I had the same amount of pressure on both the right and left teeth, and now it cuts nice and straight.
You might just be sharpening one side down a tad bit than the other....make a big difference, but then again I am still learning

 

[wendell]

It is really hard to file the same both ways and even though you think you are, you are probably not. I have a much harder time filing the cutters when the bar is pointed to my right than my left. If I take 5 swipes on the cutters when the bar is pointed right, I will take 3 when it is to the left.

This keeps me cutting straight. Ratio might be different for you.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

It is really hard to file the same both ways and even though you think you are, you are probably not. I have a much harder time filing the cutters when the bar is pointed to my right than my left. If I take 3 swipes on the cutters when the bar is pointed right, I will take 5 when it is to the left.

This keeps me cutting straight. Ratio might be different for you.

Glad I am not the only one with this same problem

 

[smokinj]

It is really hard to file the same both ways and even though you think you are, you are probably not. I have a much harder time filing the cutters when the bar is pointed to my right than my left. If I take 3 swipes on the cutters when the bar is pointed right, I will take 5 when it is to the left.

This keeps me cutting straight. Ratio might be different for you.

Glad I am not the only one with this same problem

watch your cutter when you file them you are just shinning them and if you have a good file and a solid stroke it may only take one stroke to shine it up again. Ratio from right to left is another good way to look at it. I have seen a 28 in. full comp dull and wouldnt cut butter and one stroke on each cutter and it was rocking again!

 

[savageactor7]

When making a cut the saw will curve to the left as I cut downward into the wood

Sounds like the cutters on the left are sharper ...you can straighten it out by drawing the file over the right side cutters only. If an operator continually torques a saw threw a cut there are other things that can prevent a square cut.

It's best to let a sharp chain alone pull the saw threw the cut. When you find yourself applying any pressure either re-sharpen or swap out chains. Sounds like a pita but over time you'll make better production and be less fatigued. After awhile you'll find more enjoyment in the task at hand...and that's a good thing too.

After awhile you'll master hand filing.

 

[smokinj]

When making a cut the saw will curve to the left as I cut downward into the wood

Sounds like the cutters on the left are sharper ...you can straighten it out by drawing the file over the right side cutters only. If an operator continually torques a saw threw a cut there are other things that can prevent a square cut.

It's best to let a sharp chain alone pull the saw threw the cut. When you find yourself applying any pressure either re-sharpen or swap out chains. Sounds like a pita but over time you'll make better production and be less fatigued. After awhile you'll find more enjoyment in the task at hand...and that's a good thing too.

After awhile you'll master hand filing.

I apply pressure with every saw I have and they cut straight! A saw should cut on its owen is just not true thats what the dawgs on the saw are for. Anchor and pivot!

 

[Tony H]

And all this time I thought my saw curved to the right because my right leg is shorter than my left ;-P

With pressure I always use a little when the chain is really sharp and a little more when cutting normally , I will usually cut down on the close side then set the dawgs and put some upward pressure to cut down the far side the roll the log and finish the cut . Unless the chain is super sharp alot of the time in harder wood with no pressure the saw would just sit and run in place with the low Kickback chain.

 

[smokinj]

And all this time I thought my saw curved to the right because my right leg is shorter than my left ;-P

With pressure I always use a little when the chain is really sharp and a little more when cutting normally , I will usually cut down on the close side then set the dawgs and put some upward pressure to cut down the far side the roll the log and finish the cut . Unless the chain is super sharp alot of the time in harder wood with no pressure the saw would just sit and run in place with the low Kickback chain.

I pull as hard as the rpm's will let me.

 

[LLigetfa]

Pull, yes. Push, no. I pull up on the saw to take some of the weight off cuz the weight of the saw alone is too much.

Pushing, pulling, rocking on the dawgs.... WTF are you guys doing?

 

[smokinj]

Pull, yes. Push, no. I pull up on the saw to take some of the weight off cuz the weight of the saw alone is too much.

Pushing, pulling, rocking on the dawgs.... WTF are you guys doing?

busting chips with a saw and haven't found any that self feed and yes its a pull not a push....and does not make the saw cut crooked.

 

[savageactor7]

I apply pressure with every saw I have and they cut straight! A saw should cut on its owen is just not true thats what the dawgs on the saw are for. Anchor and pivot!

Well smokeingJay your obviously an expert... my advice was for the OP.

Long time ago I took the spiked bumpers off all 3 saws in protest of the boys continually torquing them threw cuts...imo too hard on drive gears, bars and chains. Thought it would be a temporary measure but they quickly adapted and liked it more or less.

One thing we all really liked was with no spiked bumpers on limbing became so much safer and easier. Mostly because the working chain did not draw and hold fast branches into the bumpers.

 

[smokinj]

I apply pressure with every saw I have and they cut straight! A saw should cut on its owen is just not true thats what the dawgs on the saw are for. Anchor and pivot!

Well smokeingJay your obviously an expert... my advice was for the OP.

Long time ago I took the spiked bumpers off all 3 saws in protest of the boys continually torquing them threw cuts...imo too hard on drive gears, bars and chains. Thought it would be a temporary measure but they quickly adapted and liked it more or less.

One thing we all really liked was with no spiked bumpers on limbing became so much safer and easier. Mostly because the working chain did not draw and hold fast branches into the bumpers.

the only point I was trying to make is crooked cuts are not operator error its always the chain or bar and mostly they just sharpen one side of the chain better than the other. (In this case shapen the right with a couple more strokes)
A good way to get good at doing chain is when your not in a hurry do 3 cutters at a time and walk away for at least 15 min repeat until chain is done...This give you more time to think about each cutter and the way each one get the time to do it right. I am not the best hand filer not by a long shot but have seen guys that can get a chain from the dead in one stroke.

 

[SKIN052]

I am no expert but I have seen the bar cause this problem. Hard to explain, the bar will develop a lip on either flat side causing it to pull in that direction. Lay the bar down flat with the chain off and run your finger nail over the edges of it. Your nail should slide of the edge. If it gets caught simple flat file it down.

 

[fyrwoodguy]

here's couple of pic's of what i use to service worn guide bars.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o8/WILLIAMFGREENE/barshop001Largee-mailview.jpg
this pic shows grinding wheel for squaring bar rails, and hammer for closing bar rails.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o8/WILLIAMFGREENE/barshop003Largee-mailview.jpg
this pic shows cut-off wheel used for grinding deeper bar rails.

this is what you need for proper guide bar repair. & keeping your chainsaw cutting straight.

 

[smokinj]

here's couple of pic's of what i use to service worn guide bars.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o8/WILLIAMFGREENE/barshop001Largee-mailview.jpg
this pic shows grinding wheel for squaring bar rails, and hammer for closing bar rails.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o8/WILLIAMFGREENE/barshop003Largee-mailview.jpg
this pic shows cut-off wheel used for grinding deeper bar rails.

this is what you need for proper guide bar repair. & keeping your chainsaw cutting straight.

Nice set up! but I would bet there no issues with the bar on craftsman. Done 14 chains last night all but 5 where way off from hand sharpening and hitting junk metal...with that said the 5 that still had good gulletts and angles where mine.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

1) make sure the chain is correctly tightened.
2)Since you hand sharpen and may not be great at it - use something to restore it to where it should be. this http://www.tractorsupply.com/timber...olt-electric-chainsaw-chain-sharpener-3990212 has worked great for me.
3)While it could be the bar, it sounds like you already know the cahin is not sharpened quite the way it should be.

BTW, the grinder mentioned above does NOT address the rakers.

 

[LLigetfa]

It is very simple to check the bar for trueness. I've been on jobs where supposed expert cutters took turns hand filing a chain to correct a crooked cut and in the end, I showed them all up by trueing the bar.

I'm not saying it IS the bar but before you waste a bunch of time filing off a lot of metal from the cutters, check the bar.

 

[smokinj]

It is very simple to check the bar for trueness. I've been on jobs where supposed expert cutters took turns hand filing a chain to correct a crooked cut and in the end, I showed them all up by trueing the bar.

I'm not saying it IS the bar but before you waste a bunch of time filing off a lot of metal from the cutters, check the bar.

pro saw you a very correct, craftsman 42cc saw cutting crooked I would bet after looking at the chain he done well just to make it cut at all! lol and even still have the craftsman paint still on the bar.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

It is very simple to check the bar for trueness. I've been on jobs where supposed expert cutters took turns hand filing a chain to correct a crooked cut and in the end, I showed them all up by trueing the bar.

I'm not saying it IS the bar but before you waste a bunch of time filing off a lot of metal from the cutters, check the bar.

pro saw you a very correct, craftsman 42cc saw cutting crooked I would bet after looking at the chain he done well just to make it cut at all! lol and even still have the craftsman paint still on the bar.

Ok, enough of you guys with your fancy schmancy saws rippin us folks with our lowely Craftmans ;-P
Put a decent chain on it, and it cuts well....not going to go through a log with your ported/muffler modded, 454 hemi with a 80" inch bar....but it gets the job done for us %-P

 

[smokinj]

It is very simple to check the bar for trueness. I've been on jobs where supposed expert cutters took turns hand filing a chain to correct a crooked cut and in the end, I showed them all up by trueing the bar.

I'm not saying it IS the bar but before you waste a bunch of time filing off a lot of metal from the cutters, check the bar.

pro saw you a very correct, craftsman 42cc saw cutting crooked I would bet after looking at the chain he done well just to make it cut at all! lol and even still have the craftsman paint still on the bar.

Ok, enough of you guys with your fancy schmancy saws rippin us folks with our lowely Craftmans ;-P
Put a decent chain on it, and it cuts well....not going to go through a log with your ported/muffler modded, 454 hemi with a 80" inch bar....but it gets the job done for us %-P

not knocking your saw, and you are correct good chain and learn to sharpen or take it in more often to have done...Then they are not bad saw by no-means!

 

[daveswoodhauler]

I was just jokin SmokinJ...we just wish we had your budget for play....I mean work saws :cheese: