Seasoning Time Chart

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chris2879

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Nov 8, 2010
117
Western MA
Not sure if this is a good idea, but i am new to the wood burning arena. Let alone trying to ID the wood, but the next question is how long it takes certain species to season. I do not like to post every time get a new kind of wood how long it takes to season (since time is never on my side). I was thinking if we can make a sticky that has a table in it. The table would have columns for wood kind, seasoning time in sun / shade / windy area, min/max/ideal time. I think if everyone fills in what the know, we can start a nice database of this information. What do you all think?
 
I think this was brought up previously and the general response has been there are just too many variables. For me I go by green oak needs 2+ years, everything else green I can get around here is basically ready to burn in 10+ months but if I can go longer then all the better.
 
muncybob said:
I think this was brought up previously and the general response has been there are just too many variables. For me I go by green oak needs 2+ years, everything else green I can get around here is basically ready to burn in 10+ months but if I can go longer then all the better.



That is a :zip: good answer
 
chris2879 said:
Not sure if this is a good idea, but i am new to the wood burning arena. Let alone trying to ID the wood, but the next question is how long it takes certain species to season. I do not like to post every time get a new kind of wood how long it takes to season (since time is never on my side). I was thinking if we can make a sticky that has a table in it. The table would have columns for wood kind, seasoning time in sun / shade / windy area, min/max/ideal time. I think if everyone fills in what the know, we can start a nice database of this information. What do you all think?

Best graph is below.
The bottom most graph is the most useful.
Average hardwood is one year after split and stacked in single rows in the sun.
Oaks are 2 yrs.
Ash and locust are the best < one year.
http://mb-soft.com/juca/print/firewood.html
 
How about branches 3-4 inches in diameter and smaller, do these season quicker because they contain less moisture or does the same rule apply for that species of wood, ie 2+ years for oak etc..
 
Last year I cut hundreds of lower branches from my maple trees and put them in a big pile destined for the outside fire pits. I never got back to that pile until last week, when I was showing my wife how to buck them up with the saw. Branches 8-10' long and 3-5" in diameter are now bone dry inside 12 months later.
 
My new rule is that wood does not get burned unless it has been cut/split/stacked for at least 3 years.

This may not be possible for you, but from what I have learned and experienced its my new rule. ;-)

Red Oak needs 3-5 years to properly dry.
 
weatherguy said:
How about branches 3-4 inches in diameter and smaller, do these season quicker because they contain less moisture or does the same rule apply for that species of wood, ie 2+ years for oak etc..

If the tree was dead often the outer branches dry first. On a live tree I've found the small unsplit rounds take longer to dry than the bigger split piecies. trh water can only get out the ends if it's not split.
 
Don't be afraid to double or even triple split some of your wood. Of my 5 full cords.....1 is completey triple split by hand with a good variety of wood. Ash, apple, cheery,maple, black locust & red oak. It wil season that much faster. Due to get about 2-3 more full cords by Sept. Most I wil split regular but some I will methodically double and even triple split. Getting ready for 2012/2013 season.
 
NordicSplitter said:
Don't be afraid to double or even triple split some of your wood. Of my 5 full cords.....1 is completey triple split by hand with a good variety of wood. Ash, apple, cheery,maple, black locust & red oak. It wil season that much faster. Due to get about 2-3 more full cords by Sept. Most I wil split regular but some I will methodically double and even triple split. Getting ready for 2012/2013 season.

So you're making tooth picks? :)

The more wood I stock pile the bigger my splits get. When I started out 3x4 rectangles were about as big as they got, now 5x6 is more the normal. If I had a bigger stove the splits would be even bigger. :lol: Make em as big as I want and give them all the time that they need.
 
Everyone has their preference as too their splits. Most of mine are 18-22"in length x 8-10" high. I just doube & triple split some that are very large. Part of the reason I get full cords for about $150 is because I order all the large stuff nobody else wants. Most folks seem to have smaller stoves than mine. My wood supplier is grateful I take the larger stuff.
 
rdust said:
NordicSplitter said:
Don't be afraid to double or even triple split some of your wood. Of my 5 full cords.....1 is completey triple split by hand with a good variety of wood. Ash, apple, cheery,maple, black locust & red oak. It wil season that much faster. Due to get about 2-3 more full cords by Sept. Most I wil split regular but some I will methodically double and even triple split. Getting ready for 2012/2013 season.

So you're making tooth picks? :)

The more wood I stock pile the bigger my splits get. When I started out 3x4 rectangles were about as big as they got, now 5x6 is more the normal. If I had a bigger stove the splits would be even bigger. :lol: Make em as big as I want and give them all the time that they need.

Ive been doing the same, I like big splits, since they're going to sit out in the sun and wind for 2-3 years I figure Ill make some big long lasting splits.
 
Talk about variables! Let's look at elm, that nasty splitting stuff.

Cut the elm green and split it right away and it dries relatively fast; over the summer. However, it ends up stringy and open so lights really fast which means it also burns fast. We wait until the tree has died and then wait for the bark to fall before cutting. Now most of the elm does not split stringy and will hold fire much longer. But what about drying? Just because the tree is dead does not mean that wood is dry and ready to burn. However, usually those top branches can be burned right away so no drying time is necessary but go down into the main trunk and the lower you go the more moisture will be in the wood. It still needs drying time but will dry fairly fast.

Also drying time, as stated, is dependent upon the size of the splits. It is dependent upon the weather in your area. It is dependent upon how and where you stack the wood, etc., etc. So most times given on any chart are only guidelines; they are not absolutes.
 
I think its time for someone to build an elaborate spreadsheet where you can input all the variables and it spits out an answer "# of days to cure". It would be fun and entertaining to see everyone disagree on how much weight each variable should have. Lets see... would need this info for each quandry:
beginning moisture content
tree species
spits or rounds
average size of splits/rounds
length of spits/rounds
average temperature for your location
average windspeed for your location
average relative humidity for your location
desired ending moisture content
average sunlight for your location
covered stack vs out in the open

Even if you had all correct information and weighted everything somehow into a declining moisture content curve, I would say give or take 50% of the results to find the answer.
 
We just need some of this
 

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Hiram Maxim said:
Red Oak needs 3-5 years to properly dry.
It's a LIE!! You're just saying that so you can make fun of me when I break down and cry like a school girl! You're mean. Sniff...sniff.

cptoneleg said:
We just need some of this
Naw, we don't need any of that crap at all. There's no life there. I'll take the life-giving HEAT any day, bugs and all. :cheese:
 
cptoneleg said:
We just need some of this

I cant wait, Im already looking forward to winter, I love winter.
 
Hiram Maxim said:
My new rule is that wood does not get burned unless it has been cut/split/stacked for at least 3 years.

This may not be possible for you, but from what I have learned and experienced its my new rule. ;-)

Red Oak needs 3-5 years to properly dry.
Are you seasoning it in a root cellar?
 
oldspark said:
Hiram Maxim said:
My new rule is that wood does not get burned unless it has been cut/split/stacked for at least 3 years.

This may not be possible for you, but from what I have learned and experienced its my new rule. ;-)

Red Oak needs 3-5 years to properly dry.
Are you seasoning it in a root cellar?

No, but I split big and I also know how much better dry wood performs! :coolsmile:

I recently opened up some red oak cut/split/stack 2 years ago......still lots of moisture. :grrr:

No worries though, at this point......I'm years ahead of the game


To each their own but I'm a follower of the "Backwoods Savage Method" (stock up and season long)

Cheers Hiram
 
:lol: That's good Hiram. But I know too how much better results you are getting with the dry wood and we are too. Keep on cutting though.
 
NordicSplitter said:
Europe just had its coldest winter in over 100yrs!!!......We are next! Get more wood!!!!!!


And today I find that June was the 4th hottest (globally) on record.
 
Hiram Maxim said:
oldspark said:
Hiram Maxim said:
My new rule is that wood does not get burned unless it has been cut/split/stacked for at least 3 years.

This may not be possible for you, but from what I have learned and experienced its my new rule. ;-)

Red Oak needs 3-5 years to properly dry.
Are you seasoning it in a root cellar?

No, but I split big and I also know how much better dry wood performs! :coolsmile:

I recently opened up some red oak cut/split/stack 2 years ago......still lots of moisture. :grrr:

No worries though, at this point......I'm years ahead of the game


To each their own but I'm a follower of the "Backwoods Savage Method" (stock up and season long)

Cheers Hiram
I just season till its 20% or less.
 
Hiram is doing the same thing. ;-)
 
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