Self Extinguishing Stove- Rookie needs help.....Moved to correct board.....

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

McMatt

New Member
Oct 9, 2007
19
Oops...posted this on the log jammers board the first time....anyhoot...

Greetings all on my semi-annual trek to this board looking for advice. Last year I explained how to set your home ablaze using only a shop vac and a few tiny embers. This year I have the opposite problem, the pellet stove won’t stay lit.

By way of background my stove is an Englander PV25DC-55 built in 10/07 but used only for the winters of 08-09 and 09-10. When heating season started this year (for those of us of Hibernian heritage as the Emerald Isle is lovingly embraced by the Gulfstream it starts early.) The first ten fires were unenventful and normal. Hoo-zah, sayeth I. A hot stove and a cold beer, I am off to the garage to do what I do best, take apart cars and bikes that are running OK to make them faster. Occasionally the top auger would stop feeding and the fire would darn near go out…nothing much more than embers…but I was told last year this is a normal part of operation. Some things you take on faith and fire always reignited itself. I have no idea why the top auger needs an occasional break while it’s downstream harder working brother soldiers steadfastly on but I don’t understand aerodynamics either and I still get on planes.

Sometime in the overnight hours Saturday the fire went out (despite a full hopper of fuel) and didn’t reignite. And yes, it was a bit chilly. Gadzooth sayeth I, peppering the sentiment with some more colorful language. So I cleaned out the stove, checked the wiring, made sure the chimney was clean and the air intake tube unobstructed. I relit the stove and it fired up normally, even enthusiastically. When I checked on it around noon the fire had gone out again and once again no e-codes were displayed. I like codes. Some of my cars display codes like “P101” which means the most expensive and hard to replace trinket has once again shat the bed with two days left on your emissions sticker.

Yesterday I really got after the stove as really cold weather is moving in this weekend. I even carried a tool box to show the stove I meant business. The stove will light and run for anywhere from ten to fifteen minutes. At that point the top auger stops spinning, the fire eventually goes out and the stove shuts down. Occasionally if I grasp the upper motor and wiggle it up and down and side to side I can restart that auger and again for ten to twelve minutes everything is fine. The motor isn’t hot to the touch and the wiring look good. I hate to just toss a motor at it, so anyone have any ideas on what’s going on and how to right it? I have tons of tools (the difference between men and lower primates is we have rollaround tool boxes) but am not real handy with home repair stuff. Several well intended, intelligent and good hearted women over the years have told me when it comes to home repairs I am like a mallard with a 30-30. I might really want to fire back at that duck blind but it just ain’t going to happen.
 
OK, now that I'm on the right board I am hard at work and doing what I should have done first, reading the sticky posts above on troubleshooting. (Thank you Dr. Stove Doctor.)

I decided to check the stuff least likely to leave me burned or shocked first. There is a white tube that runs from the upper left rear corner of the stove down to what at least looks like a blower for the exhaust. When I checked the connection to the lower barb it was a very loose fit. It came off with no pressure and the car stuff tells me vacuum hoses shouldn't be that way. As I tried to reinstall it a small section fell off one side of the hose. (And and at that point the stove shut itself off and flashed the vacuum code. In this case I think it should have flashed SU....as in Vanna, I'd like to solve the puzzle...I am StUpid.)

If that vacuum hose is lose could it cause the problems I am experiencing.

Secondly, until a factory replacement hose arrives can I McGyver the connection with a peice of automotive vacuum line or fuel hose? I know I've got a few miles of that laying around and no I won't install a used peice of fuel line and blow myself up...I'd like to think. Finally would adding a hose clamp at that barb secure the connection better than a slip fit?

Let's see what else I can go break....
 
Mcmatt said:
OK, now that I'm on the right board I am hard at work and doing what I should have done first, reading the sticky posts above on troubleshooting. (Thank you Dr. Stove Doctor.)

I decided to check the stuff least likely to leave me burned or shocked first. There is a white tube that runs from the upper left rear corner of the stove down to what at least looks like a blower for the exhaust. When I checked the connection to the lower barb it was a very loose fit. It came off with no pressure and the car stuff tells me vacuum hoses shouldn't be that way. As I tried to reinstall it a small section fell off one side of the hose. (And and at that point the stove shut itself off and flashed the vacuum code. In this case I think it should have flashed SU....as in Vanna, I'd like to solve the puzzle...I am StUpid.)

If that vacuum hose is lose could it cause the problems I am experiencing.

Secondly, until a factory replacement hose arrives can I McGyver the connection with a peice of automotive vacuum line or fuel hose? I know I've got a few miles of that laying around and no I won't install a used peice of fuel line and blow myself up...I'd like to think. Finally would adding a hose clamp at that barb secure the connection better than a slip fit?

Let's see what else I can go break....

Now look here you .... always have the stove off and unplugged when inserting hands into the guts of a pellet dragon.

You could take the tubing down to the local auto parts store and ask for replacement silicone tubing, then you can cut to length and likely have a lifetime supply.
 
Any idea what size inner diameter that hose is? Coincidentaly I worked for years at an auto parts store and it looks like 5/16th to me. Right now I have shade-tree engineered (ironic in that I lost my shade tree to a storm this year) a fix with a few tie wraps holding the hose tighter to the barb and the stove has been running close to an hour and a half, longer than it has for a week. If I can keep it running while I get the replacement tomorrow that would be great. You know you're in trouble when the local weather bunny posts, Wednesday's forecast, "It's going to suck!" Wednesday night, "Continuing soul sapping suckiness. Have you considered moving?" But then again, I am one of the early adopters to realize that Cecily Tynan is the AntiChrist.

Does four tons of pellets stuffed down the basement qualify me as a pellet pig? Does paying the landlord's kid fifty bucks to haul and stack all that wood qualify me as a moral pig?
 
You need to consult the club officers to determine if you are a Pellet Pig or not, all I can tell you is that 3 tons is the minimum pellet load, but there are other qualifiers. For instance you must sacrifice both a hardwood and softwood tree to the Great Pellet, and so on and so forth, etc ....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.