Settling on a Drolet, at least so far. Pictures of my set up! Need some more info though.

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vizzle

New Member
Oct 6, 2008
33
South east CT
Size is about 40 inches x 52 inches

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Here is my set up. I have a small wood stove. It came with the house. I am not even sure what kind it is. There are no labels, or signs or tags to even tell me. As you can tell by my inexperience, I can't even recognize it by look to even guess the brand.
The problem is that its small. I can fit 17 inch pieces, it only burns about 5 or 6 hours. Not a long burn or all night. It has a hard time keeping up with the winter as well. I have a decent wood supplier who really hates cutting my "nuggets" of wood. So what I was looking for was a bigger stove with a bigger fire box, and warming ability.

I have chosen the drolet myriad, because of price and size. And no one has really said anything bad about them. Atleast what I can find online. I have found little about their burn time, but have read that you get a decent bang for your buck out of drolet stoves.

On of the most important things is that it will fit on my stove area.
Link to the drolet myriad.
http://www.drolet.ca/product.aspx?CategoId=1&Id=212

brief highlights
Deep firebox of 3.1ft3
comes with a blower
ash tray

Width: 23.75"
Depth: 26.5"
Height: 31.5"

Northern tool price $869

I guess what I am looking for is for someone experienced, tell me if I am making a bad choice?? And what could be done better?
Its a rather longer term investment, and I want to make a good choice.
I need a longer burn time, and be able to take larger pieces of wood, and a decent ability to heat my cape. Multi level house. Bed rooms upstairs.
 
The Drolets are pretty good stoves. I know of at least a couple of people with them, and they are happy with them. Drolets are built fairly heavy. I do believe the Myriad has a damper that you can open to by-pass the baffle when re-loading, if needed. Download the owner manual for more info.
 
Jimbob said:
The Drolets are pretty good stoves. I know of at least a couple of people with them, and they are happy with them. Drolets are built fairly heavy. I do believe the Myriad has a damper that you can open to by-pass the baffle when re-loading, if needed. Download the owner manual for more info.

The one big questions I have is...Will it be a big deal if its 4 inches from the edge. Based on the install instructions, I need to be 24 inches from wall, and 6 inches from the back wall. That puts me 4 inches from the end of the rock near the window. Is there a problem with being close to the end of the rock? Would I have do anything?
 
I think with that corner install you'll need to look closely at clearances too. A bigger stove is likely to push that hearth into the doorway unless you get one with very tight clearances. Can you tell us a bit about the house size, insulation, etc.? That will help figure the size of the stove.
 
BeGreen said:
I think with that corner install you'll need to look closely at clearances too. A bigger stove is likely to push that hearth into the doorway unless you get one with very tight clearances. Can you tell us a bit about the house size, insulation, etc.? That will help figure the size of the stove.

Its a has plaster walls with insulation the siding. Not sure the type. I think that is pretty standard.

Nice part, is there is no door way.

Its about 1100 sq feet house.

I asked this above, but will paste this new questions here too

The one big questions I have is...Will it be a big deal if its 4 inches from the edge. Based on the install instructions, I need to be 24 inches from wall, and 6 inches from the back wall. That puts me 4 inches from the end of the rock near the window. Is there a problem with being close to the end of the rock? Would I have do anything?
 
Drolet's have been discussed here very rarely. I think there would be a lot more out there if they had a stronger distribution network. Northern Tool and a few online dealers is about the only place I've seen them but maybe there are others. Reviews, at least on Northern tool have been quite positive. My brother actually just took delivery on the insert version and we should have it installed in a couple weeks.
Cracking the glass by closing the door with too much wood loaded has been mentioned a few times and it even happened to someone else I know with the Drolet insert (likes the stove otherwise though).
 
kwburn said:
Drolet's have been discussed here very rarely. I think there would be a lot more out there if they had a stronger distribution network. Northern Tool and a few online dealers is about the only place I've seen them but maybe there are others. Reviews, at least on Northern tool have been quite positive. My brother actually just took delivery on the insert version and we should have it installed in a couple weeks.
Cracking the glass by closing the door with too much wood loaded has been mentioned a few times and it even happened to someone else I know with the Drolet insert (likes the stove otherwise though).

I wish there were even more info! If I get it, I will review it!
 
I think the Drolet Myriad would be overkill and would recommend considering a bit smaller firebox in the 2-2.5 cu ft range. Yes the front hearth requirement is important. But more critically, the corner clearance for the Myriad is 17". A Napoleon 1400, an Englander 13NC won't break the budget and have better clearances, but will give a long burn. As to log length, the wood guy is busting your chops. 16" is a very common size for firewood. Locally, from the two main firewood dealers, that's the only size they cut to.

For clearance comparison, the Napoleon has really tight corner clearances. Compared to the 16/17" clearance, with double-wall pipe, the Napoleon only needs 4", the Englander with side shields needs 8.5". Another stove to consider would be the Pacific Energy Super 27. It has a corner clearance of 4" too and has excellent, long burn times.

I've highlighted the Drolet's clearance requirements here to illustrate the problem.
 

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BeGreen said:
I think the Drolet Myriad would be overkill and would recommend considering a bit smaller firebox in the 2-2.5 cu ft range. Yes the front hearth requirement is important. But more critically, the corner clearance for the Myriad is 17". A Napoleon 1401, an Englander 13NC won't break the budget and have better clearances, but will give a long burn. As to log length, the wood guy is busting your chops. 16" is a very common size for firewood. Locally, from the two main firewood dealers, that's the only size they cut to.

For clearance comparison, the Napoleon has really tight corner clearances. Compared to the 16/17" clearance, with double-wall pipe, the Napoleon only needs 4", the Englander with side shields needs 8.5". Another stove to consider would be the Pacific Energy Super 27. It has a corner clearance of 4" too and has excellent, long burn times.

I've highlighted the Drolet's clearance requirements here to illustrate the problem.


I was thinking of putting it the other way instead of on an angle. Can it be close to the edge? Or would that violate a code?
When you save over kill what do you mean?

And isn't bigger better when it comes to fire box?
What are disadvantages to having a bigger firebox?
 
I think the stove has to be on a pad that gives 8 " on the sides and 18" on the front.

Copied and pasted from another site:

Non-combustible Floor Pad Size and Type – The floor pad protects flooring from hot embers or ashes that might fall from the stove as you fill it or tend the fire. The pad must extend at least 20 cm (8 in.) beyond the sides and rear, and 45 cm (18 in.) in front of the loading door. Also, the floor pad must be a continuous, non-combustible surface. Do not mount the floor pad on carpet, unless the pad is strong enough to resist bending or cracking.

More reading for you. This will answer all of your questions.
http://www.canren.gc.ca/prod_serv/index.asp?CaId=103&PgId=576
 
Jimbob said:
I think the stove has to be on a pad that gives 8 " on the sides and 18" on the front.

Copied and pasted from another site:

Non-combustible Floor Pad Size and Type – The floor pad protects flooring from hot embers or ashes that might fall from the stove as you fill it or tend the fire. The pad must extend at least 20 cm (8 in.) beyond the sides and rear, and 45 cm (18 in.) in front of the loading door. Also, the floor pad must be a continuous, non-combustible surface. Do not mount the floor pad on carpet, unless the pad is strong enough to resist bending or cracking.

More reading for you. This will answer all of your questions.
http://www.canren.gc.ca/prod_serv/index.asp?CaId=103&PgId=576

I see this in the Myriad manual. (see below)
I am not sure I understand it. Is there any other material that would count besides brick? Would a fiber glass mat count?

Convert specification to R-value:
k-factor is given with a required thickness (T) in inches: R=1/k x T
C-factor is given: R=1/C
Example:
If the floor protector is 4” brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8” mineral board with a k factor of 0.29 the total R-value of the system is:
4” brick C=1.25, R=1/1.25=0.8
1/8” mineral board K=0.29, R=1/0.29 x 0.125=0.431
Total R = Rbrick + Rmineral = 0.8 + 0.431 = 1.231
Total R is greater than 1.0, the system is acceptable
 
The stove is large for a small house, that could be considered overkill in the sense that the capacity of the stove will never be used, or if it is, it may be too warm in the house.

Setting it straight on the pad will help with the clearances, that's a good idea. But the hearth will still need to extend 18" in front of the stove, though it could be at floor level. The hearth requirements of R1 include the existing hearth. They need to be honored. Do you know how the existing hearth was made? If the stone surface is on plywood, it wouldn't qualify for this stove. But if it has a layer of insulation board under the stone then it might.
 
BeGreen said:
The stove is large for a small house, that could be considered overkill in the sense that the capacity of the stove will never be used, or if it is, it may be too warm in the house.

Setting it straight on the pad will help with the clearances, that's a good idea. But the hearth will still need to extend 18" in front of the stove, though it could be at floor level. The hearth requirements of R1 include the existing hearth. They need to be honored. Do you know how the existing hearth was made? If the stone surface is on plywood, it wouldn't qualify for this stove. But if it has a layer of insulation board under the stone then it might.

I get it. It would be a big undertaking to get this stove to work in my house, and it is too big. So on to something different. Ideally I would get a stove that would work with this 40" by 50" area I have now. Rounded sizes down.

I really do appreciate all the information! I will check out the other stoves listed!
 
FWIW, some stoves only require a non-combustible surface instead of R1. That would make things easier for you. In the case of the Napoleon or PE stove all you'd need is a piece of metal or floor-flush tiling to honor the requirements. They just need spark and ember protection.
 
BeGreen said:
FWIW, some stoves only require a non-combustible surface instead of R1. That would make things easier for you. In the case of the Napoleon or PE stove all you'd need is a piece of metal or floor-flush tiling to honor the requirements. They just need spark and ember protection.

A big concern is that a stove that will heat the main level, and the upstairs! My current one struggles to in the CT winters. I am looking at other ones recommended now.
 
Understood and that's reasonable. One of the issues you might be facing is not that the stove is undersized, but that you are not getting all the heat from the wood. Damp wood is lousy for heat. Be sure you have a dry wood supply for winter now.
 
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