should I use a full chisel chain ?

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kwikrp

Feeling the Heat
Oct 21, 2008
299
SE Mass
I have an old Jonsered chainsaw it was my fathers, runs just as strong today as I remember. It is a 6XX model. Brought it to the local jonsered dealer for routine maintenance. Dealer said that if it was his saw he would run a full chisel chain on the saw. I asked why? ( I am ignorant to this) he said it would dramitically improve the performance of the saw. It would "Fly through timber" as he put it. My question what are the advantages and disadvantages to a full chisel chain ? The bar that is on the saw has no markings so how would I match a chain ?

Thanks
 
hes right you just need to be more careful with kick back....
 
kwikrp said:
how would I match a chain ?
Have the dealer match it.
 
kwikrp said:
I have an old Jonsered chainsaw it was my fathers, runs just as strong today as I remember. It is a 6XX model. Brought it to the local jonsered dealer for routine maintenance. Dealer said that if it was his saw he would run a full chisel chain on the saw. I asked why? ( I am ignorant to this) he said it would dramitically improve the performance of the saw. It would "Fly through timber" as he put it. My question what are the advantages and disadvantages to a full chisel chain ? The bar that is on the saw has no markings so how would I match a chain ?

Thanks

The general consensus is that a full chisel will cut faster and better . . . but may dull a little more quickly and need some touch up here and there.

A semi-chisel will cut better than a safety chain and may not require as many touch up filings.

A safety chain can help reduce kick backs, but the safety comes at a price as it doesn not chomp through the wood as quickly.

I may be going out on a limb here, but I would say many folks say newbies may want to start with a safety chain and when they start to get a good feel of how to handle the saw move to either a semi-chisel or full-chisel chain. Also, I think most folks would say regardless of what chain you have it is important to keep the chain filed so it is sharp . . . there's nothing worse than trying to cut and buck trees with a dull chain.

If you've handled the saw for a bit and know its quirks, I would say go for the full chisel . . . especially if you're upgrading from a safety chain . . . but also be sure to get some files so you can keep it sharp . . . and the dealer can easily get you the right sized chain.
 
In a nutshell, full chisel cuts faster when sharp but dulls quicker, especially if there is dirt in the bark or if you hit the ground. Semi-chisel will not cut as quick when sharp but will stay sharp longer and can handle dirty conditions better. Safety chain can be more condom than cutter.
 
i would never recommend a full-chisel to anyone who asks if they should use a full-chisel. I would use a full-chisel, but they don't carry them at the store, so i always end up needing a chain before I think to buy one online and end up with a semi-chisel. it works well for me.
 
Maybe someone ought to comment on the need for protective chaps, or other protective equipment, with a full-chisel chain (I've never used one).
 
AFAIK a full chisel is no more dangerous than any other yellow chain.
 
Yes, you should use full PPE-chaps, boots, face and hearing protection with ANY type of chain.
 
golfandwoodnut said:
I have never tried the skip tooth, that seems to be the fastest cutting of them all from what some guys have said

The advantage of a skip tooth is.....wait for it......less teeth. Less teeth does not = faster. Less teeth = less drag = higher rpm for saws that DO NOT have the power to pull a full chisel. This could be due to longer bar length, mismatched power head to bar length, weak power head etc. But fewer teeth don't cut faster than more teeth.
 
Jags said:
golfandwoodnut said:
I have never tried the skip tooth, that seems to be the fastest cutting of them all from what some guys have said

The advantage of a skip tooth is.....wait for it......less teeth. Less teeth does not = faster. Less teeth = less drag = higher rpm for saws that DO NOT have the power to pull a full chisel. This could be due to longer bar length, mismatched power head to bar length, weak power head etc. But fewer teeth don't cut faster than more teeth.

for example a 290 running a 42 in. bar will be much quickier with a full skip chain! lol
 
smokinjay said:
Jags said:
golfandwoodnut said:
I have never tried the skip tooth, that seems to be the fastest cutting of them all from what some guys have said

The advantage of a skip tooth is.....wait for it......less teeth. Less teeth does not = faster. Less teeth = less drag = higher rpm for saws that DO NOT have the power to pull a full chisel. This could be due to longer bar length, mismatched power head to bar length, weak power head etc. But fewer teeth don't cut faster than more teeth.

for example a 290 running a 42 in. bar will be much quickier with a full skip chain! lol

Thats a case of "Exactly". :ahhh:
 
Danno77 said:
i would never recommend a full-chisel to anyone who asks if they should use a full-chisel. I would use a full-chisel, but they don't carry them at the store, so i always end up needing a chain before I think to buy one online and end up with a semi-chisel. it works well for me.

I agree, full chisels can be a hand full!
 
Jags said:
golfandwoodnut said:
I have never tried the skip tooth, that seems to be the fastest cutting of them all from what some guys have said

The advantage of a skip tooth is.....wait for it......less teeth. Less teeth does not = faster. Less teeth = less drag = higher rpm for saws that DO NOT have the power to pull a full chisel. This could be due to longer bar length, mismatched power head to bar length, weak power head etc. But fewer teeth don't cut faster than more teeth.
Jags, it's not just about power. Skip chain has more spaces between the cutters for the chips to occupy and get raked out from. These cuttings expand to take up a lot of space and will lift the cutters up. That's one of the fundamental problems with green (reduced kickback) chain.

If you lack horses, skip chain will help to keep the revs up.
 
skip tooth is also rougher running in the cut and more prone to snag at the tip and possibly kickback, and more suited to long bars where the chip clearance limits cutting, not just hp. By long, I'd say at least 28 inches before I'd use skip. I don't like skip, but that is my bias and needs. I get small trees here, and rarely cut more than 24 inch bar.

I think skips best applications are just the opposite of what the average homeowner needs.

I like full chisel on fresh green wood, it is just more gratifying and fun to run and feel it cut. But again my biases: I do NOT touch dirt, but since I cut mostly dead hard wood and a lot of that has dust grown into the tree from farm field, I mostly use semi because of the stay sharp longer. I touch up every couple tanks, maybe every tank sometimes. Full chisel is just more work in my situations.

Personally I'd say if you are asking the question, then stay with semi chisel. If you get more experience and are used to filing and touch up on the chain, try a full chisel. But I do think right now you would be awed the first half hour how it cuts, then very disappointed the rest of the day if you aren't used to maintaining it.
 
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