Simple Solution For Splitter Valve Not Holding

[velvetfoot]

Staying in place on the retraction stroke is a hit or miss thing on my splitter's valve handle. Plus, it has to get warmed up before it gets to that hit or miss state. I've reversed something or other in the valve (it's been so long ago) and I recall that helped some. Anyway, I tried putting a rubber band on the handle to some handy place as an assist, and it seems to work a lot more dependably now. For what it's worth.

 

[MasterMech]

Most detents on spool valves can be adjusted. If the valve is not staying in the "retract" position then it usually needs to be adjusted. If that doesn't do it then you'd have to disassemble the detent assembly to check out the balls/spring. If the valve is sticking in the "retract" position and not returning to center like it should at the completion of the stroke, then that usually indicates something in the valve spool, or the detent assembly, is hanging up. MTD built units are getting rather infamous for this and I believe they issued a recall about it. There's more info posted on this forum in another thread. It is possible for the detent to be adjusted 'too strong' if the valve only requires a slight bump to return it to center.

 

[velvetfoot]

Maybe it can be adjusted, but last time I checked, I couldn't find out how.

 

[Captain Hornet]

My Troy built splitter had this problem and I noticed that it was worse as the splitter got up to temperature. I took the back of the valve apart and found a gummy mess . I cleaned it all up with carb cleaner and slobbered it full of grease. Now it works like a champ, better than when new. I think the real problem all along is that the valves came from the factory without lubrication. David

 

[MasterMech]

Maybe it can be adjusted, but last time I checked, I couldn't find out how.

Most valves have a hex screw/jamnut on the opposite end of the spool from the handle. It should be oriented 90 degrees to the valve. Loosen the jamnut and loosen/tighten the hex to adjust the detent as desired.

 

[MasterMech]

My Troy built splitter had this problem and I noticed that it was worse as the splitter got up to temperature. I took the back of the valve apart and found a gummy mess . I cleaned it all up with carb cleaner and slobbered it full of grease. Now it works like a champ, better than when new. I think the real problem all along is that the valves came from the factory without lubrication. David

This seems to be the running theme with the MTD built units. (Troy-Bilt, Cub Cadent, Yard machine, etc...) They tried to lubracte it at the factory, hence the gum, but apparently whatever they used isn't up to the job.

 

[kettensäge]

Had this problem with a pre-recall model MTD. Had to change the O rings in the valve, got them at the local hydraulic repair shop, 50 cents for 4. The valve requires 2 IIRC.