Slammer installs, who's running them?

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clemsonfor

Minister of Fire
Dec 15, 2011
2,513
Greenwood county, SC
Describe the set up your running.

Untill i install my liner i am running one. I have a 8x13 terracotta flue tile all the way up after the smoke shelf.
 
It'll probably burn for you.... untill it's a warmish kinda cold day and you're runnin it.... Biggest disadvantage (other than complete disregard to safety and code, and asking for the ins co to drop your house fire claim) is the layers of glazed creosote that'll accumulate + drip over thru the entire fireplace and back of your insert all the way from the fireplace base thru your 8 x 13 tiles from lingering smoke..... including all over the backside of the hot firebox on your stove. You got a chimney fire comin.... just sayin....
 
If you would have seen the pile of creasote I took out of the back of the smoke shelf when I installed my liner and insert you may never want to light that thing again. Everything works until it doesn't.
 
summit said:
It'll probably burn for you.... untill it's a warmish kinda cold day and you're runnin it.... Biggest disadvantage (other than complete disregard to safety and code, and asking for the ins co to drop your house fire claim) is the layers of glazed creosote that'll accumulate + drip over thru the entire fireplace and back of your insert all the way from the fireplace base thru your 8 x 13 tiles from lingering smoke..... including all over the backside of the hot firebox on your stove. You got a chimney fire comin.... just sayin....

Yep. That sums it up..... Nothing else needs said.
 
These others folks don't intend to run you off, it's just kinda frowned upon here, and most places frankly. This kind of install can be pretty dangerous and very messy. I'm sure you already know this since you plan on getting it lined. A slammer install has been a code violation since the mid 70's but is still common to see in the midwest, probably many 100's of them out there running, many won't see a problem, it would sure suck to be that one though. I've cleaned them that had glazed creosote dripping from top to bottom, others that just had fly ash in the flue. You never know what a mason or framer did behind the scenes, it seems kinda odd to have an 8"x12" flue for a fireplace, just be careful and get it lined as soon as possible.
 
there are dual 7x11 inner diameter tiles, i have one blocked off.

The stove is a new model high valley and the manual says you dont need a liner? Odd i know. Also my town has ZERO codes!
 
All towns have codes, just no one to enforce them. It is an International Residential code that requires that you have a pipe that extends from the outlet of the stove to at least the first flue tile. I'm not sure how some brands say it's "up to local authority having jurisdiction". How tall is it? Liners are pretty cheap over at www.chimneylinerdepot.com.
 
Had one here when I moved in, had a Fuego Flame pc of crap insert, and the sucker was constantly cherry red on the top and the connector.
Tore it out, relined and installed a new insert. No more glow, and much more heat. AND, MUCH easier to clean!
 
I had one for years and never again will I do that. What a messy setup and dangerous. Last year I removed the damper and a few fire brick in my masonry chimney and now have a 8 inch double wall insulated liner attached with a T to my Vermont Castings Encore and the stove performs like a new stove and burns cleaner than I could have believed.
 
webby3650 said:
All towns have codes, just no one to enforce them. It is an International Residential code that requires that you have a pipe that extends from the outlet of the stove to at least the first flue tile. I'm not sure how some brands say it's "up to local authority having jurisdiction". How tall is it? Liners are pretty cheap over at www.chimneylinerdepot.com.

Chimney is 25ft total so after the stove on the hearth maybe 23ft of liner. I have made up my mine already to get it from the depot! I need to buy an 8-6" adapter, which they have a smooth transition one at Rocford that i want.

Maybe we have codes but i was told out town opted out of them or something. Point is that you can build a new house or remodel anything and never have the county man out there looking at what your doing and be totally legal, no permits either.

As far as what is needed for the liner, is it just pipe out of adapter to the top, then the termination cap then the chimney cap? I have heard yall talk about a blokoff plate is that on the inside above the smoke shelf where the tile starts? I dont see anythink like this at the depot site?
 
They call it a damper sealing kit.

damper-sealing-kit.jpg


You can do the same thing by stuffing Roxul in the damper around the liner. It helps keep the heat in the fireplace and not go up the flue.

I would just get the one of the liner kits they sell.

Btw, is your chimney exterior (on the outside of your house) or interior (runs up the middle of your house)?
 
Just making sure I follow, the stove has an 8 inch flue collar and you are looking at putting a 6 inch liner on it?

If so, that is sometimes not a "legit" thing to do. Really going to depend on your setup. W/ ~23ft of chimney, I think it should be OK. In general, the liner will make your install much safer by keeping the creosote contained.

Also, I'd follow mellow's advice and stuff roxul (not the pink fiberglass insulation) around the liner to seal of the old fireplace damper area. Roxul can be found at Lowes.

roxul_comfortbatt.jpg


pen
 
I bought a house with a 80's-era slammer in 2005, burned it recreationally for a year or so. After researching the issue on the internets, decided to upgrade to a direct connect: Appliance adaptor + 8' long 8" oval ss flex to 15' long by 7x11" (ID) terracotta flue AND hard block-off plate at damper. My decision process was a flawed compromise--I assumed I could not use a 6" liner with the old stove having 8" exhaust, and I couldn't fit an 8" flex down the tile flue. Found Hearth.com about 30 days after the install. Grrr. Still burning that setup on the weekends.

Note: the pre-EPA stoves generally need less draft than EPA...New stoves prob wouldn't work at all as slammers, a 25' tall insulated liner on an old stove could make it prone to overfiring. I could have safely gone for a 6" liner on the old 8" exhaust stove, and been all set for a stove upgrade.

FYI, the direct connect improved the stove performance significantly. I tried to estimate the BTU output, and decided the direct connect gave >50% more heat output per load. With the slammer, I had to give it so much combustion air (or the draft collapsed and I got smoky smoldering) it was basically working as an open fireplace. Pro: the flue stayed really clean, as it does with fireplaces. Con: Heat output effectively nil.

So, don't try to heat your house with a slammer. Safety issues aside, the efficiency is so low, you'll need a mountain of wood for a little output.
 
pen said:
Just making sure I follow, the stove has an 8 inch flue collar and you are looking at putting a 6 inch liner on it?

If so, that is sometimes not a "legit" thing to do. Really going to depend on your setup. W/ ~23ft of chimney, I think it should be OK. In general, the liner will make your install much safer by keeping the creosote contained.

Also, I'd follow mellow's advice and stuff roxul (not the pink fiberglass insulation) around the liner to seal of the old fireplace damper area. Roxul can be found at Lowes.

roxul_comfortbatt.jpg


pen

OK im following you on the Roxol stuff, that was my plan as i did not think i could get way up in the interior to get a metal plate siliconed up there.

And Mellow and i have kind of discussed this on a previous post i have floating around. Yes the Outlet is 8" but i cant get an 8" round liner into a tile thats narrowest is 6.5". I am not paying the $1300+ for a rectangle one to meet the same surface area and i am not paying to bust out the old tile. I called the manufacturer and they said i can do it and may be better anyway. Forgot, yes this is an exterior brick chimney lined with the tiles. I live in upstate SC, gives you an idea of climate. Ok back to liner, Mellow thinks it will be ok to adapt directly to 6". Id like to hear what others have to say, i was thinking of going up 5 feet with 8" pipe and then going 6" up after that through the tile.

Like i said this is gonna happen i just want to make sure i get it right. Even if i get a 25ft liner in 6" i can always later i guess put in 5ft of 8" pipe before it to see if it will make a difference if i have a problem.


Does anyone know if those adapters will hook up to an appliance connector? IE my 8" AP connector and then the "smooth transition" 8-6" reducer?
 
I am heating my house with my "slammer". I have an EPA HIgh Valley insert. For those not familiar with it its a 3.5cuft firebox and has Cats in it. I first had it "slammed" in with both tiles open, that was terrible like you say but i wet up top and blocked one off and now it will draft but i still think i have a bit of a draft problem when damped down below 50%. More efficient and safer is better though!!
 
Not to make things worse, but a suggestion, since this is an exterior chimney and you have a cat stove that burns low and slow a 6" liner might have draft issues during start up on cold days, I know mine did and I had to insulate it for it to work right with my cat insert, works great with my new insert as well. I don't remember mentioning that before.

Don't want to bugger up the thoughts but that would possibly mean going to a 5.5" liner so it could be insulated and fit in your chimney or you could do as some have and use a pourable chimney liner mix with a 6" liner.
 
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