Small Saw for Limbing

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mrplow

New Member
Oct 18, 2010
23
Seattle, WA
Ok, so I have stihl 029 super that is my medium/large saw. It works great for bucking large rounds, and it's been my only saw for the past 10 years. Problem is, i went cutting for the first time in a couple years (just bought a wood insert recently) a couple weekends ago. After an hour, my arm was so sore from holding that big saw (about 20 pounds with a 25" bar) that I was almost glad when a nail dulled the crap out of my chain and I had no sharpener. We piled up the 3/4 bed worth of apple I had already cut and called it good enough.

Obviously i'm out of shape, and I need to get stronger. That's in the works. However, I estimate that my friend's orchard has another 70 acres or more of free apple wood just waiting to be cleared, and I think i'd make better progress with a small saw (most of what i'm cutting isn't larger than 8" diameter). My wife has also expressed an interest in having a small saw that she can use while I'm on the 029. I'm looking at the Stihl 170 or 180, vs. the $100 Poulan they have at Home Depot.

The cost difference is significant, but my thinking is that it would make more sense to spend a bit more on a Stihl, which I know is probably always going to be in good shape (my 029 cranked after 5 pulls, having sat for 2 years). Thoughts? Recommendations on a cheap-ish small saw? I don't think I can get away with spending more than about $225 plus tax.
 
stihl 192t or echo 360t
 
Skip the Poulan 70 acres of apple is not WildThang territory. I'd lean to the 180 with the bit more power. 192 is well over that budget. Otherwise heard good things about the little Echos.
 
midwestcoast said:
Skip the Poulan 70 acres of apple is not WildThang territory. I'd lean to the 180 with the bit more power. 192 is well over that budget. Otherwise heard good things about the little Echos.

Funny thing is I bought my 192t it was a dealership demo I think it was 225.00
 
My Husky 345 was $190 dealership demo, are you sold on Stihl? Husky/Jonsered has a couple small saws, even a top handle might work if you and your wife have got some experience with saws - but not as a beginner saw.
 
I'll have to see if anyone has a 192t on special.

thanks for the advice.

So, definitely stay away from the Poulan?
 
I bought one for a backup saw a couple years back. Figured for $120 how could I go wrong? Chain came off, wouldn't start, wouldn's stay running when it did start, and felt like a kid's toy compared to the Husky (similar size saw though). Went back next day. On the plus side, the chain was sharp.
 
moosetrek said:
My Husky 345 was $190 dealership demo, are you sold on Stihl? Husky/Jonsered has a couple small saws, even a top handle might work if you and your wife have got some experience with saws - but not as a beginner saw.

I have very little experience (maybe 100 hours total time running a saw), and my wife has never touched a saw. So, top handle is probably out of question... I've never tried a Husky saw, so i'd be willing to consider it. I don't see the 345 on their website, but i did consider the 235... For the same price, I was thinking that i'd prefer a Stihl, just because my saw has treated me right since I got it, and there must be a good reason why they're the top sellers worldwide...

Just out of curiosity, what is it about top handle saws that makes them tougher to handle, or not for beginners? Is it a leverage thing?
 
Yes, it's a leverage thing. Good call, taking that off the list. Nothing beats lots of safe experience...

Husky/Jonsered, Stihl, and Dolmar are all excellent brands. Husky and Stihl have the largest dealer network in most places, either will treat you well - their consumer line is far better than Poulan's Pro line, etc.; the Husqvarna saws are all 445, 4XX I think now - mine's a couple years old. It's their 45CC saw, the Jonsered 2245 is the almost the same saw I think. Probably mid-$200 range, but if you can cough up the extra $25-50 it might be well worth it to not have to worry later. The Stihl 250 is in that range too I think.
 
Apple trees you dont need no stinking leverage there all "limb" lol top handle is NO BIG DEAL TO RUN! heck the ecko 330t is marketed to women! (not saying women cant run a saw) .043 chain all you need is the weight of the saw to make the cut.
 
I'm just curious why you need a 25 inch bar on an apple tree. What sort of giant trees are these, anyway?
 
Stihl is selling the ms250 for $299 at the moment. It or the ms211 (smaller, lighter) would be good budget picks from Stihl.
 
Kenster said:
I'm just curious why you need a 25 inch bar on an apple tree. What sort of giant trees are these, anyway?

I don't. That's why i'm looking for a smaller saw. =)
 
Kenster said:
I'm just curious why you need a 25 inch bar on an apple tree. What sort of giant trees are these, anyway?
"cause he's in the PNW. Out there they won't let you out the door of the saw shop without at least 24" bar lol. Big softwood = bigger bars in general.
 
I picked up a used stihl 180 for $100 - seems to work on the small stuff quite well
 
mrplow said:
... I've never tried a Husky saw, so i'd be willing to consider it. I don't see the 345 on their website, but i did consider the 235... For the same price, I was thinking that i'd prefer a Stihl, just because my saw has treated me right since I got it, and there must be a good reason why they're the top sellers worldwide...

Just out of curiosity, what is it about top handle saws that makes them tougher to handle, or not for beginners? Is it a leverage thing?

345 is discontinued. Ebay is the best bet for that. Replaced by 445 which is above your budget I think.
The Husky 235 (anything in the 2xx line) is actually made in the Poulan factory. Maybe O.K. but I'd skip it.
 
If you are looking at the 40cc class saws, I just bought a Dolmar 420 for $299 and it is a real little screamer. If you can handle a 20 pound saw all day, mine is just under 14 pounds on the scale with a 16" Oregon bar (stock Dolmar bar is a bit lighter) and fluids full. This isn't a buzzy little consumer grade saw, it is pro quality throughout. 2.7 HP, 13,500 RPM, torque up the wazoo, extremely low vibration, great balance. Ridiculously easy to start with it's spring-assist recoil. Some guy posted a video on YouTube of his 10 year old daughter cold-starting a 420. With this little saw, I really think you'd leave that 290 back in the truck for most of what you're doing. You might even be tempted to list it on eBay. :lol:

http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/productcatalog/product/5143/index.html


I just looked and you are blessed with 16 Dolmar dealers in the Seattle area.

http://www.dolmarpowerproducts.com/contact/dealer_locator/usa_dealers.html
 
moosetrek said:
And he's pulling it with an 029... How's that work, pretty good?

It's okay. Bogs down a bit at the middle of a big round if i'm really pushing, but generally whips right through anything that i'm cutting, as long as the chain is sharp. Up til now I've been cutting mostly softwood.

Plenty of power for me, that's for sure.
 
Why not save some cash and throw a short bar on that 029? That or buy something like a Poulan for $100. They are pretty light.

Matt
 
The Dolmar PS401 with 14" B/C is the best limbing saw I've ever used. Powerful and lightweight, especially with the muffler opened up a bit. For logs/limbs 10-12" and under, it's a joy to use.
 
Picked up this little 020 AV Super for $80 off CL. Needed a little cleanup and a few issues resolved, but it's a pro level saw that cuts like a light saber.

I might avoid the cheapie Poulans for the vibration, if nothing else. Vibration is fatiguing and fatigue does not enhance safety.

There are a lot of decent saws on CL around here under your price threshold. Buy something nice for under $150, then have a little left over for spare chains, etc.

You might also enjoy a 18" bar on the 029, though, as well.
 

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Beowulf said:
Picked up this little 020 AV Super for $80 off CL. Needed a little cleanup and a few issues resolved, but it's a pro level saw that cuts like a light saber.

I might avoid the cheapie Poulans for the vibration, if nothing else. Vibration is fatiguing and fatigue does not enhance safety.

There are a lot of decent saws on CL around here under your price threshold. Buy something nice for under $150, then have a little left over for spare chains, etc.

You might also enjoy a 18" bar on the 029, though, as well.



NICE!
 
mrplow said:
Ok, so I have stihl 029 super that is my medium/large saw. It works great for bucking large rounds, and it's been my only saw for the past 10 years. Problem is, i went cutting for the first time in a couple years (just bought a wood insert recently) a couple weekends ago. After an hour, my arm was so sore from holding that big saw (about 20 pounds with a 25" bar) that I was almost glad when a nail dulled the crap out of my chain and I had no sharpener. We piled up the 3/4 bed worth of apple I had already cut and called it good enough.

Obviously i'm out of shape, and I need to get stronger. That's in the works. However, I estimate that my friend's orchard has another 70 acres or more of free apple wood just waiting to be cleared, and I think i'd make better progress with a small saw (most of what i'm cutting isn't larger than 8" diameter). My wife has also expressed an interest in having a small saw that she can use while I'm on the 029. I'm looking at the Stihl 170 or 180, vs. the $100 Poulan they have at Home Depot.

The cost difference is significant, but my thinking is that it would make more sense to spend a bit more on a Stihl, which I know is probably always going to be in good shape (my 029 cranked after 5 pulls, having sat for 2 years). Thoughts? Recommendations on a cheap-ish small saw? I don't think I can get away with spending more than about $225 plus tax.

If the 290 kicked your @$$ after an hour a 170/180/Poulan isn't going to buy you much more time.

Try this: cut for 20 minutes then take a break or do something else, repeat.
 
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