Source for ball valve actuator?

[sled_mack]

I have a ball valve in a really tight spot that I would like to automate. I think I can get 30% more heat per burn cycle if I open this valve. Based on it's location, there is little chance of me taking it out and replacing it with a zone valve or Asco type valve.

So, I'm looking for an electric actuator for a 1 inch brass ball valve. Preferably two wire control - power to open and remove power to close. But, I could rig up a relay to provide power for both directions. Cheap is good, too.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[wdc1160]

One of the forum members from the discussion thread tittled "Any one have a laddomat" posted about danfoss.


They have servral types of actuators.
http://heating.danfoss.com/Content/31ce41ae-b55a-462b-8775-19c2433d2e2b_MNU17367838_SIT54.html

 

[sled_mack]

Cool.

Question, if you happen to know - What is 3 point control? It looks like power on L1 rotates clockwise, and power on L2 rotates counter-clockwise. I can make that happen.

 

[Bob Rohr]

The valve may need some lugs to bolt the actuator onto and connect to the stem. those motors have quite a bit of torque. Typically it requires a valve made for an actuator. It may be hard to retro fit the motor.

If you don't need to shut off against a high pressure, a regular zone valve is not much longer then a ball valve, much cheaper and most have pop top heads for easy replacement. I like the Caleffi brand best.

hr

 

[wdc1160]

Heheh. Yah you can break the handles on the valves. If you like me you don't need an actuator to break stuff.
Here is another link.

(broken link removed)
These actuators from both sites are compatible with normal valves handles as we know them.

2 point and 3 point control refers to the cicuitry for the control boards and systems. If your not an electrical guru, the easiest way to explain it is that it works very similar to the way thermostats work with zone valves.

Thnks Bil

 

[sled_mack]

This is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for:
(broken link removed)

Oddly enough, everything I've found on the web is 24VAC or 230VAC. Mostly used in Europe? 24VAC is no problem, I've actually got a transformer laying around that will do the job. 120 would just be convenient.

Yea, I know there are a lot of reasons for not doing what I want to do. But I'd have to dismantle more of my boiler piping than I want to, just to get this valve out. If this slides out to a summer project, maybe I'll do that. But if I can get it done now, adding an actuator is the only way.

 

[wdc1160]

I don't think you'll know if it is a mistake until next heating season. For now just assume you are all knowing.