Spa / Hot Tub Heater ELEMENT life: 4kW TITANIUM Bow Tie, Teflon coated, Etc...?

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zzr7ky

Minister of Fire
Jun 12, 2006
1,053
Hi -

I'm in a northern climate. Think lots of snow and ice, with tub set into Deck so it's not nice having to replace the heater element in January when it likes to go out...

I've had t replace the heater element several times; once every 3-4 years. However I've got it open right now to replace the circulation pump. I was thinking that if the Titanium or teflon coated elements are significantly more corosion resistant that it might be smart to replace it now.

In truth I don't do a super job on water PH monitoring, especially during hunting seasons since I'm not there much but my adult kids are ; ).

What say you tub enthusiasts?
 
I've been tubbing for many years and have never lost an element. Are you running the water level low and sucking air past the element? It is a rare thing to go through these things over and over. Perhaps you should figure out the reason for the failures. Is your electrical okay?

I have lost two pump seals. Probably from chemistry.
 
The 'tub guy' said the 1st on ewas due to an anti algie product that contained copper?

The second on e was petted.

So looking at the records it's 10 years old. One pump seal, two failed heater elements, and I'm just thinking of putting the Ti unit in to prevent trouble in the Winter. The Electrical is good. Redundant grounds, 8' ground rod, GFI.

It is possible that the electicity was not to spec' for a period of time due to recent out of the ordinary storms. I suppose that could have tripped the GFI.

The GFI tripping is what tipped me off to the heater issue in the past.
 
highbeam makes a good point. but if everything checks out ok, it's due for a change now and while your in there ya might as well do the titanium. in my exper. with water heaters there are some elements that just don't hold up to others. i'm not a tub guy, but i think paying close detail to the chemistry is the ticket.
 
Ask any pool and spa guy and they will tell you that water chemistry is your first issue - all the time. too many people live with unbalanced water because it is clear. Makes no sense...

There is no reason that your pH or anything else should suffer because of hunting season. It takes 2 minutes to check and adjust pH...test strips are you friend and surprisingly accurate.
 
This time of year I buy the big swimming pool container of sodium carbonate (PH upper) for cheap. No need to buy that fancy spa specific PH upper since it is the same chemical. We shoot for the high 7s as in 7.6 or 7.8 and find it pretty easy to keep there. Especially if nobody is in the tub.

I also buy sodium dichlor (we're chlorine people) from teh pool area but it is a bit tougher to locate. Sometimes it is called pool shocker. Reading the ingredients list will really clue you into the marketing BS that leads to price gouging of spa people.

As your spa water gets older, it is even easier to hold a steady pH level. It is also harder to adjust it. It just takes more PH upper.
 
Highbeam said:
This time of year I buy the big swimming pool container of sodium carbonate (PH upper) for cheap. No need to buy that fancy spa specific PH upper since it is the same chemical. We shoot for the high 7s as in 7.6 or 7.8 and find it pretty easy to keep there. Especially if nobody is in the tub.

I also buy sodium dichlor (we're chlorine people) from teh pool area but it is a bit tougher to locate. Sometimes it is called pool shocker. Reading the ingredients list will really clue you into the marketing BS that leads to price gouging of spa people.

As your spa water gets older, it is even easier to hold a steady pH level. It is also harder to adjust it. It just takes more PH upper.

Quite right to the extent that i know. I cut my working mans teeth working for the pool Doctor. did it full-time for 3 years and pt for 5 after that going to college. Still friendly with the owning family and get much stuff at discount. They sell sodium bicarb for $1 per lb - go see what you can get a larger bag for somewhere else. Amazing what those seasonal businesses try and do to you - and their suppliers. My buddy could not get me a pump for cheaper that i could get it online. i got the pump [for my cousin] for about $20 cheaper than he could source it...imagine that. The chlorine and bromine are the same thing. Better off figuring out what you need and finding it cheaper. Just don't go mixing different kinds of chlorine in the same chlorinator device. Dichlor and trichlor used in the same chorinator can cause serious issues...

PS...and i work for the Company that own biolab...at least i get a rebate on their products.
 
Sodium bicarbonate is baking soda. You don't want that. Use sodium carbonate for increasing pH.
 
Highbeam said:
Sodium bicarbonate is baking soda. You don't want that. Use sodium carbonate for increasing pH.

Using that as a for instance. You DO use bicarb for managing the Total Alkalinity of the water aside from the PH. It is just another water chemistry parameter to manage for longevity of equipment and it is helps to stabilize your pH. It is a necessary part of balancing water...and it looks like you have not been doing it...

http://www.poolwizard.net/problems/alkalinity.htm

http://askalanaquestion.com/pool_ph_and_total_alkalinity.htm

A very low TA can definitely lead to skin discomfort - itchy and red.
 
We used to adjust total alkalinity when I worked on big outdoor pools but not on spas that get new water pretty frequently. I don't belive it is necessary and just another one of the many things that you can do if you want. Maybe our water is just good enough.
 
It may be good enough. It is only when it drops very low that it causes some discomfort - possibly. i have never seen it as high as the issues in one of those links...
 
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