Spark Plug

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thewoodlands

Minister of Fire
Aug 25, 2009
16,643
In The Woods
Last Wednesday we had to replace the spark plug in the woodsplitter>, if I want to clean the old one what is the best way?


zap
 
Wire bush and parts cleaner....(in my case a little gas)
 
Only thing that likely needs to be really clean is the space between the ground electrode and the center electrode (the gap). I like to touch that up by folding a piece of sandpaper until it's a little thinner than the gap (using 200 grit or finer) and then just sand for a few seconds. It would be best if you can make sure you aren't rounding the edges of the electrodes. Clean it up with engine cleaner and then regap the sucker and then you should be ready to go.
 
smokinjay said:
Wire bush and parts cleaner....(in my case a little gas)

Would carb cleaner work instead of gas, just a thought.


zap
 
zapny said:
smokinjay said:
Wire bush and parts cleaner....(in my case a little gas)

Would carb cleaner work instead of gas, just a thought.


zap
yes. would work great.
 
A points file (when the old distributors had points :lol: ) works well also. With a thin flat file you won't be rounding the corners like sand paper will. Re-gap to specs. Avoid anything that is hard metal (if possible) when cleaning the ceramic portion.
 
Jags said:
A points file (when the old distributors had points :lol: ) works well also. With a thin flat file you won't be rounding the corners like sand paper will. Re-gap to specs. Avoid anything that is hard metal (if possible) when cleaning the ceramic portion.

Stopped by this morning and picked a new spark plug up for the American CLS Splitter plus two new plugs for the 310 & 390. Wednesday I'll be cleaning the old spark plugs and checking the gap on all the plugs.

The old plug was in the splitter for three years. :red:


zap
 

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By the looks of that plug - either your splitter burns a touch of oil or you have the carb set a little on the "fat" side (too much fuel), but it don't look bad. I wouldn't be afraid of slapping another one in the hole and run with it.

I'm pretty sure I have never changed the spark plug in my splitter. :ahhh:
 
Jags said:
By the looks of that plug - either your splitter burns a touch of oil or you have the carb set a little on the "fat" side (too much fuel), but it don't look bad. I wouldn't be afraid of slapping another one in the hole and run with it.

I'm pretty sure I have never changed the spark plug in my splitter. :ahhh:

Jags, I would say the carb is set on the fat side.


zap
 
I'm wasteful. I don't clean spark plugs. They are cheap, so I figure that trying to keep one going is akin to using the other side of the TP before tossing it in.

I agree that it looks like it's running a LITTLE fat. Three years with the amount of use you give it, though, that plug doesn't look too bad. Should be a little grayer.
 
zapny said:
Jags said:
A points file (when the old distributors had points :lol: ) works well also. With a thin flat file you won't be rounding the corners like sand paper will. Re-gap to specs. Avoid anything that is hard metal (if possible) when cleaning the ceramic portion.

Stopped by this morning and picked a new spark plug up for the American CLS Splitter plus two new plugs for the 310 & 390. Wednesday I'll be cleaning the old spark plugs and checking the gap on all the plugs.

The old plug was in the splitter for three years. :red:


zap

3 years not that bad. Should start a little easier now!
 
smokinjay said:
zapny said:
Jags said:
A points file (when the old distributors had points :lol: ) works well also. With a thin flat file you won't be rounding the corners like sand paper will. Re-gap to specs. Avoid anything that is hard metal (if possible) when cleaning the ceramic portion.

Stopped by this morning and picked a new spark plug up for the American CLS Splitter plus two new plugs for the 310 & 390. Wednesday I'll be cleaning the old spark plugs and checking the gap on all the plugs.

The old plug was in the splitter for three years. :red:


zap

3 years not that bad. Should start a little easier now!

Smokin I just called the shop I stopped in at this morning and bought the spark plug (same place we bought the splitter) and he thought the plug looked fine for being the original plug and yes the splitter started on the first pull the other night.

Changing the oil this weekend.


zap
 
Best way (I think) to clean a plug is with an oxy-acetylene or propane torch... Brush off the loose stuff with a light duty wire brush, set the torch to a neutral flame, heat up.

I'm not big on cleaning old plugs, if I have a replacement handy, but if I pull one out to inspect and it looks a little slimey, then the torch brings it back to a nice light tan and cleans up any oil/fuel fouling. When it cools, a light brushing with a tooth brush will take off any remaining soot or loose debris.

Bonus, if your engine is flooded and you thread a warm plug back in, it lights right up!
 
Danno77 said:
...... They are cheap, so I figure that trying to keep one going is akin to using the other side of the TP before tossing it in....

wait a minute, you dont do that...? damn wrong all these years with no one to correct me.

I agree, running "fat" not sure where that term comes from but, yeah too muc on the fuel side. Not to mention I bet all that thing sees is 87. While it doesnt matter so much in newer more advanced car engines and the like, older carb running simple ignition engines can and do benifit from higher octane. Only thing it does is raise the "flash point" of the fuel. they say prevents knocking but in the micro-seconds that it takes to complete a cycle, the higher temp fuel can actually sustain hotter cycle temps, which can keep plugs, valves etc. cleaner, longer.
No B.S. and no I dont work for a gas company. Think of it like your stove, burn hot burn clean. no need for the expensive stuff, I use 89 in the saw..okay okay you got me most of the time she gets the 93. If only I could find diesel everything...
 
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