Steel garage / workshop advice

[Nater]

Since my workshop (30'x60') burnt down, I am looking to replace it with one of the prefab steel garages, probably about 30' x 40'.

Any recommendations?
What are the good manufacturers of these?
What should I look for?
Anyone in the Southern Maine / NH area know a place that sells them? (I would like to go look at a few setup first)

Thanks!

 

[Highbeam]

I am about to build a 30x60 shop. I have some questions for you. Why are you downsizing to only 40 feet long? Are you going to steel so it won't burn down again? I have chosen wooden pole barn construction.

There are a few steel building manufacturers. Erection seems fast. The problem is that you need a custom and expensive concrete foundation for the structure vs. a pole barn that you don't neede any concrete. The steel buildings are tougher to insulate and you lose the ability to hang shelves, drywall, lights, electric any old place.

But it won't burn down.

 

[Nater]

Well, it was not insured which is why I am down sizing. It would cost too much to rebuild what was there. The 30 x 40 steel buildings I saw online were about $10k-$12k and most came with 30+ year warranty. I really don't know much about them and haven't seen any in person.

I have a 30 x 60 concrete slab already in place (provided it wasn't damaged in the fire), why does it need to be custom? Are the supports set into the concrete?

I'm not too worry about insulation as I mostly use it for storage, but do plan on using occasionally for working on my car.

What are you projecting for costs on the pole barn? Is it going to be fully enclosed? I've really just started looking and appreciate all ideas. Thanks.

 

[firefighterjake]

I assume you're looking at pre-fab steel simply for the speed of putting it up . . . and not for any fire concerns . . . since as you most likely know all ready that even fire proof buildings are no protection if the contents inside are combustible.

I do know that one of our fire stations was a pre-fab building . . . guys hated it . . . hot in the summer, cold in the winter . . . but then again they were living there and not just using it for storage.

 

[woodsmaster]

Good posibility the slab will slowly fall apart from getting to hot. You need footers where the steel beams bolt to the cement. they must be precicly placed and level for a pre-fab steel building.

 

[woodsmaster]

I am about to build a 30x60 shop. I have some questions for you. Why are you downsizing to only 40 feet long? Are you going to steel so it won't burn down again? I have chosen wooden pole barn construction.

There are a few steel building manufacturers. Erection seems fast. The problem is that you need a custom and expensive concrete foundation for the structure vs. a pole barn that you don't neede any concrete. The steel buildings are tougher to insulate and you lose the ability to hang shelves, drywall, lights, electric any old place.

But it won't burn down.

Pole barns are also hard to insulate drywall and seal up compaired to stick built. When I built mine it was cheaper to stick build matterial wise ,but more labor for the footer.

 

[Highbeam]

Well, it was not insured which is why I am down sizing. It would cost too much to rebuild what was there. The 30 x 40 steel buildings I saw online were about $10k-$12k and most came with 30+ year warranty. I really don't know much about them and haven't seen any in person.

I have a 30 x 60 concrete slab already in place (provided it wasn't damaged in the fire), why does it need to be custom? Are the supports set into the concrete?

I'm not too worry about insulation as I mostly use it for storage, but do plan on using occasionally for working on my car.

What are you projecting for costs on the pole barn? Is it going to be fully enclosed? I've really just started looking and appreciate all ideas. Thanks.

I actually called for quotes and for the steel building, the materials "package" was always much much more than a similar pole barn. Like 50% more. Steel is not the cheaper way to go. It is not faster either unless you ignore the extensive foundation work required. You can not just use your old pole barn slab. You need a foundation with bolts cast in place to attach to the steel structure.

A 30 year warranty? Who cares. Unless it burns down, a wood structure will last that long too.

Insulating stick built or pole barn is much easier since you can staple right to the wood members. Try that with steel girts at 4 foot centers.

The only real plus that I can find for steel buildings is incredible spans and very shallow trusses so that you get a lot of ceiling height. Oh, and they aren't as flammable. Of course you can roof and side a wood structure with metal skin but we're talking about the structure.

I'm all ears though, if you can really get a nice big steel structure build that cheap then I'm interested in the details.

 

[Nater]

I figured I would give an update on my workshop. After talking with the mortgage company, they would not allow me to down size. They said "you can build it better, but you can't build any less". So I had to go at least 30x60. After pricing the 30x60 steel buildings, they were well out of my price range. And so I went with stick built.

Luckily I was able to repair the concrete slab so I had them add 2' 6" wall around the perimeter while they were repairing it. Then I am building 8'6" walls on top of that to give me a wall height of 11'. I just ordered my scissor trusses, which will give me a maximum of around 14' ceiling height in the center, just in case I ever get a car lift . Here's a google sketchup drawing of the layout.

I started the framing last weekend, and I plan on doing a little more this weekend then add a lot of bracing in preparation for hurricane Irene.

 

[jimbom]

A few years ago I did a little pro bono work to build an addition for the VFW. I found out the pre-engineered building companies were charging outrageous amounts for their packages. And the lead time was ridiculous. So I designed and had fabricated locally the same thing available pre-engineered. It was 1/3 the quotes and I over sized the columns and beams(personal liability). Used a talented local welder and a local contractor. All standard girts, purlins, insulation and sheet metal parts are available from steel suppliers.

That said, the fire properties of steel framing are only an asset if there are no interior finishes or contents that are flammable. I am sure most of us have seen steel buildings a twisted mess after a fire or explosion. I think your stick built structure will be every bit as serviceable as a prefab. However, steel has a real advantage with regard to termites.

 

[dwirth]

You can contact Sunward Steel Buildings to get an idea of cost. They answer questions on their site, https://www.sunwardsteel.com/

Ask for Danny and he would be more than happy to help out.

 

[Knots]

I got one from TNT Carports. I got the largest, or close to it, that you can get without a foundation. It just sits on a gravel pad has auger-type hold downs. No taxes that way.

I put poly down and then horse stall mats for a floor. I only use it for storage so it works.

Quality seems good and I don't worry about the snow load.

 

[blades]

that step wall is a good idea slows them wood munchers down ( little buggers build vertical mud tunnels to reach the wood) so once or twice a year you coat that step wall with deterrent and something that breaks up their scent trail.