Stove malfunctioning?

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jumpink

Member
Sep 20, 2010
151
Northern New Jersey
It was a little nippy this morning so I went to the thermostat and raised the temp 2 degrees so the stove would kick on. We keep the stat on auto and program the stat to control the stove. I walked my son to the bus stop and when I got home my wife was yelling to look at the pellet stove. The entire stove was filled with white smoke and smoke was leaking out of the exhaust pipe into the room. Suddenly a flame ignited and I noticed a large mound of unburned pellets in the burn pot. The flame started to grow very large. I went back and lowered the thermostat hoping for the stove to start the shutdown process. Didn't work. The stove continued to drop pellets as if there was a call for heat from the stat. Finally, I put the stove in manual mode and clicked the off button. The stove began to shutdown.
Two questions are raised. What would cause the pellets to mound up in the pot? Is this a sign of a faulty igniter?
Why didn't the stove start to shutdown once I lowered the stat?

This is my second season with the stove. Last year it worked flawlessly. I felt confident burning 24/7 unattended. This mornings occurrence makes me a little nervous to stay the course. Any ideas? Thanks
 
Kevin C said:
It was a little nippy this morning so I went to the thermostat and raised the temp 2 degrees so the stove would kick on. We keep the stat on auto and program the stat to control the stove. I walked my son to the bus stop and when I got home my wife was yelling to look at the pellet stove. The entire stove was filled with white smoke and smoke was leaking out of the exhaust pipe into the room. Suddenly a flame ignited and I noticed a large mound of unburned pellets in the burn pot. The flame started to grow very large. I went back and lowered the thermostat hoping for the stove to start the shutdown process. Didn't work. The stove continued to drop pellets as if there was a call for heat from the stat. Finally, I put the stove in manual mode and clicked the off button. The stove began to shutdown.
Two questions are raised. What would cause the pellets to mound up in the pot? Is this a sign of a faulty igniter?
Why didn't the stove start to shutdown once I lowered the stat?

This is my second season with the stove. Last year it worked flawlessly. I felt confident burning 24/7 unattended. This mornings occurrence makes me a little nervous to stay the course. Any ideas? Thanks

This sounds like a couple of possible things but first what stove is the topic of this problem?

Did you check the burn pot before turning the t-stat up, if so was it empty of ash and unburned pellets?

Ash in a burn pot can make the ignition of pellets problematic if there is too much.

As for the smoke in the house exactly where was it leaking from, the exhaust is supposed to be sealed, if there wasn't an oak it could be possible that the flow reversed because of no natural draft and/or a fan running running elsewhere in the house.
 
You are correct about the burn pot. I attached a picture.
burnpot.jpg

The stove is filthy and I cleaned it two days ago. I have burned about ten bags of these pellets and they have been pretty clean. They are called wood pellet fuel, which I purchased from HD. I store them in my garage.

I have a M55 Enviro free standing with ICC Excel venting. The smoke was leaking from the elbow joint of the piping inside the house. The exhaust pipe outside of the house was pouring white smoke into the air.

What can I use to seal the excel pipe inside the house?
 
Kevin C said:
You are correct about the burn pot. I attached a picture.
burnpot.jpg

The stove is filthy and I cleaned it two days ago. I have burned about ten bags of these pellets and they have been pretty clean. They are called wood pellet fuel, which I purchased from HD. I store them in my garage.

I have a M55 Enviro free standing with ICC Excel venting. The smoke was leaking from the elbow joint of the piping inside the house. The exhaust pipe outside of the house was pouring white smoke into the air.

What can I use to seal the excel pipe inside the house?

You need to get some high temperature silicone sealant (several Rutland products qualify) or hi temperature foil tape (3M makes a good one) and apply that where the leak was or continue reading.

Can you post a picture of the area of the leak.

It is possible that the seal wasn't in place properly when the elbow was joined to the rest of the venting. It is also possible that wrong length screws were used on the joint and the inner pipe was pierced.

If the seal is out of its channel you may be able to remove the screws reseat the silicone seal ring and rejoin the venting, be certain to lubricate the seal ring with some water and light liquid detergent mix.

Inspect the piping for any sign of screw penetration, if this has occurred you need to get shorter screws, seal the inner pipe penetration with some higher temperature silicon sealant and a small patch made of the hi temperature aluminum tape. Be certain to also seat the replacement screws in a dab of sealant. The best way to handle this case is to replace the section of pipe that was penetrated.

ETA: Is your stirrer working?
 
Something major wrong is going on here...I have never seen the pot so full that you could barely see the agitator. The M55 should eat up even the worst pellets. From what I am seeing, it appears your agitator is not working. If it was, it would not allow that many pellets to accumulate. Make sure the agitator is engaged into the gears. It is on the right side of the stove. Sounds like you didn't get it engaged properly after your cleaning. I did this by mistake once. You have to push it to the right and spin until it doesn't spin any more. Then you know it is locked. Can't remember which way to spin it. Try it both ways, you will figure it out as one way you can feel it slide back into the mechanism and then stop turning.

Edit: After looking at your picture again, I'm confident you didn't get the agitator in correct. I can see it is offset to the left. It should be centered.

As to your question about why it didn't shut down. It was in the start cycle when you dropped the thermostat. I'm thinking that it may not allow a shutdown while in the start cycle from the thermostat. The thermostat is only supposed to control it after the stove is done with the start cycle and running normally. That is why you had to go to manual to shut it down. I believe you may have been able to shut it down by hitting the power button without changing it to manual mode first.

Don't lose faith...unfortunately, I believe this problem was your fault ;-). Also, it may be a blessing in disguise as you have found that you have a leak in your venting that you didn't know about before.
 
Wow! Kevin, That looks nasty! I have never seen anything like that.

What "fuel" mode was the stove in and what brand of fuel where you using?

Why didn’t the stove start to shutdown once I lowered the stat?

Was the Convection fan running? If not see below.

Sounds like the stove was still in "start up" mode(pretty much like low fire, but without the convection blower running). So until it hit the POF it was going to keep going. Once it made the POF switch it would turn on the convection blower and run on low until it timed out. These stoves go to low fire for 30 minutes and then go into shutdown.

If you need the stove to shut down ASAP. You did the correct thing. Move the selector to manual mode and hit the off button. It will go straight to shutdown.
 
I dont own an M-55, but I would bet Big Money that agitator was not spinning... For awhile. That should have been churned up and spit out.
 
Sorry for the delay, long day at work then parent teacher night, man I need a beer.

You guys nailed it. I must not have engaged the agitator all the way in because it wasn't spinning.
Flynfrfun, I am glad that the problem was the nut loose in front of the stove. :shut:

Smokey, here is a picture of the exhaust. I do have an oak attached to the stove. If I bought the hi temp silicone sealant, do I just go completely around the joint to seal it? Also, how do I go about checking for a leak once I think I have the problem solved.
pipe.jpg


Thanks again guys for all the help.
 
Actually, on seams like that, it's MUCH easier to just buy some foil furnace tape and wrap that around the offending joint. The silicone is better suited for the appliance adapter to stove joint.

Best way to check the stove & pipes for leaks is to start the stove up, and when the pellets just start to smolder and make a good amount of smoke, quickly turn out the room lights and shine a flashlight around the stove and pipes.....you should be able to see the smoke easily.
 
Yes you need to goop up the joint or tape it up or continue reading. Are there any screws there I'm having trouble making out detail. Is that a small piece of vent attached to a 45 degree and then a longer piece of vent?

I would back that seam apart and see if the seal ring is out of its channel if it is put it back where it belongs and reattach. I'm looking for screws on that short section and can't see them.

ETA: I'm sitting here with some home brew I'll do the drinking and you do the stove repair.

Oh, don't forget to get your wife some flowers or something for scaring the daylights out of her, also make certain she knows how to turn the thing off.
 
Kevin C said:
Sorry for the delay, long day at work then parent teacher night, man I need a beer.

You guys nailed it. I must not have engaged the agitator all the way in because it wasn't spinning.
Flynfrfun, I am glad that the problem was the nut loose in front of the stove. :shut:

Ha,ha...glad that is what it was. It is an easy thing to screw up on, but even easier to fix :) . But, I bet ya never do it again. Inquiring minds want to know...did you tell the wife the truth? :lol:
 
I did what Imacman suggested about turning out the lights with a flashlight. I could see the smoke wisping from the seam at the elbow.
Smokey, there are 3 screws in the pipe. It looks like one screw is missing. Would that make a difference? I didn't install the piping but I remember that the screws that were used were the ones that came from ICC. I will have to spend some time this week and get this fixed.
Flynfrfun, no hiding this one, she's been reading this thread all along. :blank:
 
Kevin C said:
I did what Imacman suggested about turning out the lights with a flashlight. I could see the smoke wisping from the seam at the elbow.
Smokey, there are 3 screws in the pipe. It looks like one screw is missing. Would that make a difference? I didn't install the piping but I remember that the screws that were used were the ones that came from ICC. I will have to spend some time this week and get this fixed.
Flynfrfun, no hiding this one, she's been reading this thread all along. :blank:

If there is a screw missing and a good dimple where it should have been it is likely some over zealous pressure drove that into the inner pipe.

The angle and light was such in the picture that I just couldn't tell, so I asked. It also looked like the seam wasn't exactly lined up so it is possible the seal isn't correct there as well.

It is worth checking the matter out and yes I do know that means moving the stove or unsealing the exterior thimble seal.

Those pipes must be aligned, perhaps they were and the stove got jostled or the venting bumped and ICC says three screws in every joint.
 
Smokey, assuming that I cannot realign the pipe to make the correct seal, should the tape be enough to seal those joints? Can that tape be purchased at one of the big box stores?
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
Kevin C said:
Smokey, assuming that I cannot realign the pipe to make the correct seal, should the tape be enough to seal those joints? Can that tape be purchased at one of the big box stores?

The tape will likely do the job, you might have to hunt around for it.

I just know it exists I've never bought any.

Here is one source: http://www.amazon.com/3M-2113NA-Hig...Z4DS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320877079&sr=8-1


That tape is GREAT! ACE hardware stores are supposed to carry it too.
 
Thanks again. I went to a local hardware store tonight that said they had it but they didn't. I have an ace hardware by work, I well stop in tomorrow
 
Seeing this makes me wonder if I ever will really want to leave the stove on when nobody is home. Is there a way to make sure the agitator is turning after cleaning without firing up the stove? This is the stove I intend to get this weekend
 
cuznvin said:
Seeing this makes me wonder if I ever will really want to leave the stove on when nobody is home. Is there a way to make sure the agitator is turning after cleaning without firing up the stove? This is the stove I intend to get this weekend

I'd download the manuals for the stove and read it cover to cover several times both the user manual and the installation manual. The controls will be discussed in those.
 
cuznvin said:
Seeing this makes me wonder if I ever will really want to leave the stove on when nobody is home. Is there a way to make sure the agitator is turning after cleaning without firing up the stove? This is the stove I intend to get this weekend

vin
Ive been burning for 3 weeks and havent even had a reason to clean the burnpot. You can remove the top half of the burnpot without removing the agitator. In any event you turn the agitator counter clockwise and you'll feel it lock in.Very easy. Even if it werent turning you should be able to burn for a day without trouble.
Ask the dealer to show you how to remove and reset.
 
The other thing you need to understand is that the biggest problem in the scene above was the leak in the venting.

The stove would likely have either ignited the pellets and the smoke in the firebox would stop or if it didn't succeed in igniting the pellets the stove would shut down and toss an error indication.

Even in a worst case situation the stove usually can contain the mess.

What the stove can't do is make up for installation and operational mistakes.

Unfortunately those happen because people don't pay attention.
 
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