stove pipe shielding help

[Lead Pipe]

I am installing a stove, but I have a problem with the 6" pipe. It runs 10" away from the 3" PVC air intake going to my boiler. I need a way to shield the intake and was thinking of putting an extra piece of stove pipe around the intake. Do you think this will work or should I do something else too?

Thanks
John

 

[Pagey]

Would something like this suffice?

http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Grou...1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1235991176&sr=8-1

 

[DAKSY]

Either get the heat shield as seen in the previous post, or
switch your connector to double-wall...
The heat shield is the least expensive option, by far...

 

[Dave_1]

The following spec's are taken from

The Clearance Table

(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/pages/hearthplan.html)


No Protection on Stove Pipe - 20"
Rear Heat Shield Kit on Stove - 10"
Heat Shield with 1” Ventilated Airspace - 12"

 

[Highbeam]

The following spec's are taken from

The Clearance Table

(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/pages/hearthplan.html)


No Protection on Stove Pipe - 20"
Rear Heat Shield Kit on Stove - 10"
Heat Shield with 1” Ventilated Airspace - 12"

Dave1, you might want to be careful about using that info because it is specific to the woodstock stove in your source. Actual chimney/connector pipe requirements are generic and are actually less than the woodstock requires.

The standard double wall stovepipe can be as little as 6" from a combustible per the sticker on the pipe. I used the double wall because my install put the sheetrock 10" away from the pipe. Double wall is actually a better pipe than single wall since the interior pipe is stainless steel and much more resistant to corrosion and high temps.

 

[begreen]

If this is a basement install, I like double-wall too. It will keep the flue gases hotter along with better heat shielding in all directions.

 

[Lead Pipe]

Thanks for the tips. Is there any problem with copper plumbing being close to the pipe? I also noticed that I have a water line (boiler return) is about 3" away from the pipe.

Thanks again
John

 

[Highbeam]

I wouldn't consider a copper pipe to be combustible.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the tips. Is there any problem with copper plumbing being close to the pipe? I also noticed that I have a water line (boiler return) is about 3" away from the pipe.

Thanks again
John

Is this the only appliance that will be using the chimney flue? If you can post a picture of the setup we can eyeball it for other potential issues.

 

[Lead Pipe]

Yes, when I upgraded my boiler the new one vented with pvc pipe so I had an unused flue that the old boiler hooked up to. The old boiler was natural gas and the flue looks brand new.

 

[Lead Pipe]

I wouldn't consider a copper pipe to be combustible.

I guess my concern is that the water in the pipe will boil, causing steam which would be bad in a closed pipe.

thanks
John

 

[NitroDave]

I wouldn't consider a copper pipe to be combustible.

I guess my concern is that the water in the pipe will boil, causing steam which would be bad in a closed pipe.

thanks
John

The water in the pipe is under pressure.... the boiling point is raised about 3*f per pound of pressure...so if you have 50 psi water pressure.... the boiling point would be about 362*f at sea level.... but then if you turn that into steam...the pressure will be raised more...thus higher boiling point..

 

[Lead Pipe]

Thanks!
John