Such a thing as a bad chain?

[ckarotka]

I purchased a few new chains this spring. Both stihl brand. The first one lasted forever. I cut all summer about 5 cord. I don't sharpen my own yet, but the first one I put on was great. Niether chain was abused or put in the dirt, both cut the same species, but the second chain cut bad right from the get go, and I feel like I wanna take it in for sharpening after 1 cord if that. Is it me or a QC issuenor niether and I might have nicked something without knowing it?

 

[Meneillys]

I would say shipping and handling probably dulled it. The chains rub on them self in the box so you might get one that is dulled once and a while.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Such a thing as a bad chain?

Yes

Good Chain = skip tooth, round bit

Bad Chain = all other types of chains

 

[savageactor7]

Well make sure the chain is on correctly cause sometimes if you get distracted you can put 'em on backward. I suppose it's possible to buy a bad chain but it's hard to believe it cause of Stihl' quality control. Give it a good look/see. Do you rotate your bar? Maybe your bar is burred over and needs a flat file run over it.

ckarotka next time you buy chain try an Oregon, they're a lot easier to hand file. Just do what the book says and if you can't get it right...then you can pay it have it sharpened. Eventually you'll get it right and you'll enjoy this thing of ours a lot more.

 

[HittinSteel]

You've cut a full cord of wood with the chain and have not sharpened it?

If so, by all means, take it in for a sharpening.

 

[oldspark]

You've cut a full cord of wood with the chain and have not sharpened it?

If so, by all means, take it in for a sharpening.

You don't get a cord of wood from one sharpening, makes a big difference on the wood type and seasoned or not but a couple of years ago I had a shop sharpen one of mine and that thing stayed sharp forever.

 

[ckarotka]

You've cut a full cord of wood with the chain and have not sharpened it?

If so, by all means, take it in for a sharpening.

Maybe not a full cord but I had to recut a load the tree service dropped off. I just doesn't cut nearly the same as the one before it. Very noticeable difference. I suppose it's like anything else, I bought a bag of chips the other day with no flavor on them, next bag was fine.

 

[TreePointer]

If you are a little intimidated by the idea of sharpening your own chains, this is what I recommend:

1. Watch this video: Chapter 3: Sharpening Your Saw Chain. Even though it's a little boring, stick with it.

2. Since you have a Sthil saw start with a Stihl sharpening kit that matches your chain's pitch:

.
3. Clamp your bar in a heavy workbench vise (with powerhead on) and sharpen according to what you leanred in step #1. Most people I know find it easier than they imagined and now prefer to sharpen their own chains.

I usually sharpen with 5 strokes/cutter on a Stihl chain. Really dull chains get more strokes/cutter.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Sounds like you might have got lucky with the one chain, and maybe the other one touched the dirt at some point. That is about all it takes to dull one. I like to touch mine up every other tank of gas now. I did not used to sharpen my own but now I never take one in for sharpening. I usually just free hand a file 3 strokes per tooth going the same direction as the tooth and 10 degrees up as I have learned here. I also bought a $29 harbor freight sharpener I will use on occassion. Teach a man to fish and he can eat forever..or something like that.

 

[HittinSteel]

quote] You don't get a cord of wood from one sharpening, makes a big difference on the wood type and seasoned or not but a couple of years ago I had a shop sharpen one of mine and that thing stayed sharp forever.[/quote]

I touch my chains up quite often. Guess they could last a cord of wood, but I like them throwing big chips. I hand file because I was taking chains in so often and they were grinding the life out of them. I'm sure a good grinder does a lot better than I can though.

I do know some people that sharpen the chains right out of the box because of inconsistencies in sharpness. So maybe the OP did get a "bad" chain. But as said before, maybe just found some dirt.

 

[ROBERT F]

You've cut a full cord of wood with the chain and have not sharpened it?

If so, by all means, take it in for a sharpening.

You don't get a cord of wood from one sharpening, makes a big difference on the wood type and seasoned or not but a couple of years ago I had a shop sharpen one of mine and that thing stayed sharp forever.

I bucked almost three cord of pine this summer on one new out of the box stihl chain. It was still cutting decent, but had one more new. threw that one on, so as not to waste time sharpening, and knew pretty much right away that the used chain was cutting better. one pass on each tooth with the file, and everything was golden.

 

[ckarotka]

You've cut a full cord of wood with the chain and have not sharpened it?

If so, by all means, take it in for a sharpening.

You don't get a cord of wood from one sharpening, makes a big difference on the wood type and seasoned or not but a couple of years ago I had a shop sharpen one of mine and that thing stayed sharp forever.

I bucked almost three cord of pine this summer on one new out of the box stihl chain. It was still cutting decent, but had one more new. threw that one on, so as not to waste time sharpening, and knew pretty much right away that the used chain was cutting better. one pass on each tooth with the file, and everything was golden.

Thats sounds like what I'm talking about spot on! Only difference is I didn't sharpen it yet. I bought that kit awhile ago but still haven't really figured it out 100% I have about 7 chains hanging in the garage that all need done, I think I will set aside two and put some time in with the video and see what happens.

Thanks

 

[nate379]

How the heck did you cut 5 cords of wood without sharpening it? I run a file on my chains every 2-3 tanks of fuel! After a half dozen or so sharpenings my angles get off a bit so I take them to the saw shop and then do it on their machine for $5 a chain.

 

[ckarotka]

Not really sure I just kept cutting and cutting, it was all silver maple (40" trunk), hemlock and red maple. All I know is I put that chain on in early summer and stacked for sure 4 cord, then helped a buddy buck some up too. I only recently changed it out about two weeks ago and haven't been cutting that much since summer. Here's the silver and some other stuff.

 

[bogydave]

You can hit a rock, even inside the wood on the 1st cut.
A nail is highly likely too, if "tree service"or "home owner" wood.
Some you won't even notice but if the cutting tip is shiny, you probably hit something.
I've seen concrete in the hallow middle. (Home owner poured it full to save the tree, was in SW Pa.)

Chain isn't done for, have it & the others sharpened. (few $$bucks for each). Cheap if chains are real dull
Google saw sharpening, or yellow pages in your area or ask around saw shops.
Wrap them individually in an oily rag, put them in a coffee can/lid labeled "sharp xx-inch chains"
Wrap cardboard around 1 or 2 oily rag/chain with duck tape & put one in the saw tool box or carrying case.
You will have enough sharp, rust free chains for years, if you only cut "wood".

TIP: when you hang or store a dirty chain, it has salts & acids from tree sap & your hands, it'll hang there & rust.
If the drive links get rusty, they eat your bar groove & sprocket.
Store in a coffee can with light oil covering the chains until you get them cleaned & sharpened.

If you are going to sharpen them yourself, (PIA to do very many) clean them in gas or solvent first & make sure they are rust free.
Clean again (gas/solvent) to get the metal filings out of the chain & clean the saw bar grove well too (probably some metal filings in it too).
Give them a light oil bath & store individually where they don't get bounced around & nick the cutting tips.

For the money, with that many chains,
Take an "Old Timer's Advice" drop them off at a reputable "saw sharpening shop"
Pick up "almost new sharp chains" in a few days. All teeth are the same angle & height, rakers at the right height.
"Good to go" with several spares.

Learn to file/sharpen chains when you need a break cutting. Have a cup of coffee on the tail gate of your truck,
set the saw on the tail gate, grab a file & make 2 passes on each tooth.
See if you notice improvement after the cup of coffee is gone, of course. You most likey will.

 

[Meneillys]

A trick my father told me for cutting fire wood is to sharpen the teeth at less of an angle. It wont cut as good as the sharp angle but it lasts much longer as long as you don't stone it. The reason behind it is you use more of the cutting surface not just the tip. I used to get his old chains from felling trees and turn them into firewood cutting chains.

 

[southbound]

We fight all the time at work over how to file a chain..Everyone seems to know what is best..I see some go strait across some make really long angles..No one seems to care if all the cutters are the same length... O and most will file the drags way down right out of the box...Me I try to stay with the proper angle but will admit I hit my drags a little hard...Not very often but unfortunately sometimes others will run my saw and comment on how well it cuts. I do always warn new guys that have little saw time that because my drags are low it WILL kick back..

Anyway we have been having a problem for a month or two with off the shelf Stihl chains..I can only use one for about two weeks and it has to be replaced.At this time they are still like new but have stretched off the bar and the adjuster is at the end of it's reach..It is not just me everyone is going threw this. We have boxes of like new chains that need a link removed..It is working out for me as I don't think I will ever have to buy a chain again ......

 

[bogydave]

*****"off the shelf Stihl chains." . I can only use one for about two weeks and it has to be replaced.
At this time they are still like new but have stretched off the bar and the adjuster is at the end of it’s reach..
It is not just me everyone is going threw this.******

Strange.

Think it's :
not enough oil to the chain?
bars &/or sprockets are worn out ?
or
Stihl needs to sell more chains?

 

[Sisu]

A trick my father told me for cutting fire wood is to sharpen the teeth at less of an angle. It wont cut as good as the sharp angle but it lasts much longer as long as you don't stone it. The reason behind it is you use more of the cutting surface not just the tip. I used to get his old chains from felling trees and turn them into firewood cutting chains.

I am not sure I would follow this advice, just to spare myself the chore of sharpening a chain. I think the old rule of a sharp tool is less likely to cut you also applies to chainsaws. I want to cut with the greatest ease and efficiency. If it means sharpening the chain more frequently, than so be it. I try to touch up a chain by hand, before I start a day of cutting.

 

[southbound]

*****"off the shelf Stihl chains." . I can only use one for about two weeks and it has to be replaced.
At this time they are still like new but have stretched off the bar and the adjuster is at the end of it’s reach..
It is not just me everyone is going threw this.******

Strange.

Think it's :
not enough oil to the chain?
bars &/or sprockets are worn out ?
or
Stihl needs to sell more chains?

Bar and sprocket 4 months old and replace yesterday....Still in pretty good shape seeing how many hours were on them.....They make us use off brand bar oil and I think that's the problem.....So it is back to Stihl only bar oil for me and my personal saws....

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I have never had to replace a chain because it stretched too much. I did not know that was even possible. I know they stretch when they are new, but only maybe a half an inch.

 

[Dingeryote]

I have never had to replace a chain because it stretched too much. I did not know that was even possible. I know they stretch when they are new, but only maybe a half an inch.

That's a new one to me as well, and I run a couple spools to the nubbins each year LOL!!
Stihl chain comes pre stressed and stretches the least, so something is goofy and it ain't cheap bar oil.
Sounds like somebody is about to have a rim drive fail.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Meneillys]

A trick my father told me for cutting fire wood is to sharpen the teeth at less of an angle. It wont cut as good as the sharp angle but it lasts much longer as long as you don't stone it. The reason behind it is you use more of the cutting surface not just the tip. I used to get his old chains from felling trees and turn them into firewood cutting chains.

I am not sure I would follow this advice, just to spare myself the chore of sharpening a chain. I think the old rule of a sharp tool is less likely to cut you also applies to chainsaws. I want to cut with the greatest ease and efficiency. If it means sharpening the chain more frequently, than so be it. I try to touch up a chain by hand, before I start a day of cutting.

For the average home owner cutting his own a nice new chain that gets sharpened every tank is good. When your trying to make money the less time sharpening = more time cutting. It was just a trick I used to use and it seemed to work. Then again I haven't cut a chunk of firewood in over 10 years moved to pellets for ease on my grandfather.