Summit/T6 Boost Maniflold

[madison]

Curious if other PE users Summit/T6 could comment regarding the change in shape of the air deflector with increasing stove temps. The attached pictures are with stove top temperature of 600 degrees, measured ~ 5" front and 5" left of stove pipe adaptor.

The degree of "warping" is temperature dependent, and pretty much returns to its normal position, though not as it was before the first burn.

Condar temp probe was checked in the gas oven on a pizza stone and has been within 25 degrees of various oven temps.

I don't feel too concerned but was curious if other users have an opinion.

 

[BrotherBart]

Looks like one of them robots missed a tack weld. On any stove that will sure affect the burn pattern.

 

[madison]

Trying to look at the parts drawing http://pacificenergy.net/PDF/manuals/T4-5-6-261107-28(W).pdf it sorta looks like the air deflector is a separate item/part, so I was hoping it was bolted down, and not tack welded. Hopefully Hog will chime in as he has probably examined this area of the summit.

I can not get a direct look at the area where the deflector meets the stove floor without vaporizing my head :snake:

Thanks BB

 

[begreen]

I haven't seen this happen on our T6 yet, but will watch for it. So far it's been such a warm fall out here that we are still not 24/7 burning. Believe it or not we still have some deciduous trees with leaves on them and there are still some roses blooming. But we expect some cool nights in the 30s this week so I'll keep an eye out.

 

[Hogwildz]

That is NOT normal. Mine never does or did that. Even prior to figuring the door needing adjustment days back when first installed and she was spiking the thermo.
I'd call dealer and request new one. It is not tacked or bolted, it merely rests there behind two tabs in front of it that are part of the fire box.
Tell them you need Part# 39 in the manual, its called the Boost Manifold.

I'd also try another thermo and take readings in several areas to make sure your getting a good reading.

 

[madison]

Thanks Hog, so that manifold should just lift out (?) after I remove the firebrick on the floor of the stove, it is not bolted? It definately has changed shaped over the 2 months of burning, and does not return to flush, at least at 250 degrees stove top this morning....

 

[madison]

While driving to work, I was thinking about how the boost manifold is secured to the firebox floor (per Hog). If I am lucky, I should be able to remove the front firebricks, and most likely the boost manifold securing tabs are not secured into the firebox, remove the manifold, bend it back so that the manifold tabs are resecured into the fire box floor.

I'll take some pictures of the process. If it works....

Thanks again

 

[Hogwildz]

LOL, NO NO NO
You don't need to touch the fire brick!.
The boost manifold just lays there on its own. The tabs I mentioned are welded onto the firebox ledge itslef. The manifold lays in place with the two tabs I describes as stops to keep it from moving forward into the box.
All you need do is lift the boost manifold up and take it out. Thats it. Pictures coming................

 

[Hogwildz]

OK heres the pics, the tab pic didn't show up well, so I outlined the tab in photoshop. There are 2 tabs one on each side.
As I said & you can see, you just lift the manifold off. I suggest letting it cool a bit, at 650 front thermo temp, it got hot through my welding gloves enough to burn my finger a lil bit LOL.

 

[Hogwildz]

Tab pic

 

[RAY_PA]

Hog is right on the money, as usual. Mine never looks like yous either and it simply lifts out as shown. I'd just call and get a new one. when I clean out my stove, I try to take a couple seconds and clean the ash from around/behind the boost manifold

Great photos, Hog.

 

[madison]

Thanks Ray and Hog,

I see now why you were laughing, the thing just sits there. I was thinking that it would be tabbed into some slots on the floor of the stove...

I lifted it out, made some feeble attempts at straightening it out, wacked it with a hammer, put it between two rocks and laid all my weight into it, that 1/" steel is pretty tough to bend.

I took some pics and will add them in a cpl hrs. It looks a little less warped, but i think once it warms up again it will return to its previous state (before i refashioned it).

Just got off the phone with a very pleasant tech rep at PE, and she mentioned that most likely, there was not enough width for the piece to expand when hot, so butts up against the inside door frame wall and has no where to go, so it bends/warps. She also noted that changes have been made on the tolerances and length of this piece, and is now cut a bit shorter to allow for the expansion. She said there should be a "good bit of play" on either side of the boost manifold. Replacement part is to be arranged via dealer, and not direct from PE.

Also, no harm/danger with burning it as is per PE

Also of note, the T6 does not have tabs, but two steel pins to keep the manifold from sliding into the stove floor.

 

[RAY_PA]

is she sending you a new one?

 

[madison]

Ray: No, required to go thru dealer...

Pics of manifold pre attempts to straighten. Refitted, and back up to temp, and returning to its previous position.

When cold, the manifold only had ~ 1/16" total play from side to side. Refit 2. So when it heats up and expands, it has no where to go, so it bends...

 

[madison]

Back up to 500 degree pics.

 

[Ken45]

I have a related question:

When I rake the coals forward, I get ashed behind the manifold plate. I assume they need to be kept open? Or shouldn't I be raking the coals that far forward?

Ken

 

[madison]

I would fathom a guess that as long as your stove is getting primary air then those holes will remain patent.

 

[RAY_PA]

OK, I thought with some sweet talk you could get her to send you a new one. If it 'bends' again, I'd bet you could get it fairly straight with some heat and a hammer then grind 1/8" off each end.

 

[Hogwildz]

Get yourself a grinder and I would grind it so you have at least 1/4" to 3/8" play on each side. Take it off both sides evenly s the holes still line up. I'll measure mine next time I get a chance. Gotta let the fingers cool off and heal a lil bit


You can get ash in front of the air inlet holes, I swipe the ash away with each reload. Whenever the stove is cold, usually not now until next spring, I pull the boost manifold off and shop vac the holes out to get any ash that may have worked in there.
When the stove is cooler, 200 or below, pull the booster out and just swipe most of the ash as best you can off the ledge that the boost manifold covers and sits on.
I have yet to have a problem with ash clogging the holes. Keep in mind there is a space between the holes on the stove firebox itself & the boost manifold. About 1/2 to 3/4" or so. so really whatever goes in the boost holes fall to the side underneath before making its way into the actual air holes on the fire box.

 

[madison]

Ray, I tried my best, but only thru the dealer.

Hog: I agree with leaving decent cold clearances to allow for expansion. It may promote some lateral airflow thru the clearance on either end, which I hope would assist with the back corner burn which in my short experience seems to be the last section to burn, and coal buildup area.

Interesting that there is engagement of the pins in the current T6 firebox with the manifold baffle, it just rests against them.

If I had the facility and talent, it would be interesting to build your own baffle and experiment with the hole pattern, it is interesting that they put the six holes centrally located, IMHO creating a potentially hotter area ? possibly excacerbating the weakness created by the holes and thus promoting material distortion? Though it may also help keep the center of the glass cleaner.

 

[Hogwildz]

Ray, I tried my best, but only thru the dealer.

Hog: I agree with leaving decent cold clearances to allow for expansion. It may promote some lateral airflow thru the clearance on either end, which I hope would assist with the back corner burn which in my short experience seems to be the last section to burn, and coal buildup area.

Interesting that there is engagement of the pins in the current T6 firebox with the manifold baffle, it just rests against them.

If I had the facility and talent, it would be interesting to build your own baffle and experiment with the hole pattern, it is interesting that they put the six holes centrally located, IMHO creating a potentially hotter area ? possibly excacerbating the weakness created by the holes and thus promoting material distortion? Though it may also help keep the center of the glass cleaner.

Makes for great cave fires. When that box is hot, trust me, the whole thing is hells inferno.
Seems to work well for me as the center burns, the sides fall into the center. I figure they been making these for years, and prolly tried many configurations. I am happy with her now.
Wait till ya get some secondary burn from those holes. Looks like a lil jet engine flame.

 

[madison]

noticed the caving as well as the coal combustion. i have not noticed secondary burn from the manifold holes,

? it is primary air that exits the manifold holes ? So i just thought that there would not be secondary burn from these...

"muchos garcias "for all the help

 

[Hogwildz]

Get that puppy up around 650 700 and you'll see those jets.
Usually at a hot reload. Only last a few minutes.
Glad to be of help. I don't know much, but I know a few things on installs & Summits. Oh and roofs also.

 

[madison]

While I had the camera out today, I thought I would post a picture of the replaced under warranty boost manifold. It has been tested now with stovetop temps up to 750 for the past 2 weeks (Hog I now see the jets from the manifold holes, as well as larger gaps at edges of the new manifold). It has not warped.

Anyone with warped PE boost manifolds, they are now manufacturing them ~ 1/2 inch shorter to allow for expansion, and are replaced under warranty.

 

[Hogwildz]

Congrats. You should have no more problems with the boost manifold.
I told ya there was jets Like lil flame throwers.