sump pump brands and size

[f3cbboy]

Hey - I have done some searches and found some stuff about wet basements and the like but nothing on the best brand of sump pump or the proper size. I can find Goulds(sts31 1/3 hp stainless steel sump pump 115v) and Flotec (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-FLOTEC-FPOS.../110653685817?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item19c3794039) on line (ebay) with a 1/3 hp, which is the same as a washing machine - my whiirlpool pumps great, but would going to a 1/2 hp buy me that much? The GPH rating isn't much different between the two pumps.

I will be pumping up about 8 1/2' (lift) then over about 20 22' to my sewer main. I am unfamiliar with utilitch that is at lowes and HD. Also I can get a 1/3 hp online shipped for about $120 while the HD and lowes want about $170 just for the pump. that price difference will get me all the ABS i need and the outlet to add for the motor. Also, i would like to put in a check valve, do i put this in the verticle run or right after it makes the 90 on the horizontal across the basement?

Also this is not a common problem in my basement. This is only the second time that i have gotten water in 9 yrs and it comes up through a cut in the floor that appear to have been put there ofr a sump install and never done. (not by me) Thanks Bruce

 

[dumbodog00]

I would suggest getting a brand you can get locally. Also, get one with a good warranty. You may not need it often, but if you do, you want it to work. If there is a problem, you can resolve it locally instead of online. Usually "plumbing houses" will have good products and a good customer support to go with them.

 

[steam man]

I have had water in my basement twice in twenty years and what a pain that is. I just bought a 1/4 hp pump by simitec or something like that for $70 at sears. Hooks to a garden hose that I piped to my sewer system through a check valve. (Don't tell my sewer company). On my way out of the store another salesman saw my pump and said he had the same one for 15 years. I figure I'll use it so infrequent I don't need a cadillac one.

 

[soupy1957]

In our case, the water comes in thru a variety of locations...........around drain pipes, up thru cracks in the floor, out of Reebar (sp?) holes, around the brick chimney floor location, ........etc....

We get about an inch or two of water, but most of the time we are playing "keep up with the flow" in our house.

Our basement is divided up in three parts.......a finished basement section, a crawl space section, and a boiler room/laundry room combination. The largest area of the three in terms of floor space, is the crawl space area, (unfinished concrete floor). Second in size is the finished family room, and lastly, according to size, comes the boiler room/laundry room.

I'm at a loss for "where" to put any sump pump, considering the varied locations, and varied ingress locations of the water.

We're having a "pro" come out and make suggestions, but I'm sure that whatever "suggestions" he has, will be more money than we have right now, so the WetVac's will have to suffice.

We are fervently praying that the rain that is supposed to come today and tomorrow, has "somewhere to go" besides our basement.

-Soupy1957

 

[fishingpol]

It's that time of year for these questions. As far as pumps, I would get middle of the road type of pump with easily available parts. If water intrusion is seasonal, you would probably not need an expensive pump that cycles a lot.

The check valves sometime comes with the pumps and should be installed right out of the pump first. If it was up say 8', when the pump shuts off all the water in the hose drains back into the sump, hastening the next cycle.

If you are using the abs(I think hose) be careful. For long runs, I've seen mostly pvc drain pipe right off the pump and check valve. Glue all connections and pitch the pipe down to the drain location. A plastic union can be installed above the pump for disconnecting the pipe to service the pump if needed. Plastic hoses will sag and wear out at the hangers.

Lastly, check outside for disconnected down spouts or add extensions to get water away from the foundation. I hope this helps.

 

[MaintenanceMan]

Most of the pumps at home centers are junk. I've done well with Zoeller sump pumps. You might have to go to a plumbing supply house to find them though. They are cast iron and very durable. The cast iron makes them quieter. Zoeller has an excellent reputation. I recommend them highly. YMMV

 

[f3cbboy]

thanks for all the replies - appreciate all the input! i will look into Zoeller - have seen them on line, but didn't know them. So cast iron would be better than stainless in this use due to it being more quiet?

 

[MaintenanceMan]

A cast iron pump will be quieter. That's not always an issue with some folks, but if you have to listen to it run through the night it could be to you. And just because it says stainless steel these these days doesn't necessarily mean it's 316 (or better) stainless. A lot of products boasting stainless these days are using a lower grade stainless that will rust PDQ in my experience. I have no connection with Zoeller other than being a satisfied customer/installer, but I would say they are the best pump I've ever used. And usually they aren't that much higher in price compared to the big box stores, Wayne, Flotec, Rigid etc. Worth the extra coin IMHO.

Another issue with your original post is that you might want to check your local codes about pumping storm water into the sewer. It's typically not acceptable to pump your sump pump into municipal sewer systems. At least in my region it isn't. And a check valve is a must. Some will thread in to the pump. Others will clamp in line above the pit. Which kind isn't important just as long as you have one in and in the right direction.

Best of luck.

 

[Dr.Faustus]

+1 on the zoeller pumps.

the best set up i ever had is my zoeller manual pump plugged into a floodfree switch. just google floodfree switch to find it. i think i got it at pumpbiz


the floodfree switch uses a wire as a trigger to turn on the pump. the pump is plugged into the floodfree switches outlet. it is 50 million times better that those diaphragm pump switches and 35 million times better than float switches. the pump time is also adjustable so you can set it to empty the hole and it has a built in alarm in case the water level hasnt gone down in enough time.

the only thing i have to do for the floodfree switch is every 6 months i cut off an inch of the sensor wire which gets corroded from the frequent water contact. they did give a lot of wire to do this tho.

my sump goes up 5 feet and then out 50 feet through 4 inch pvc and empties into a small stream.

 

[ecfinn]

Be careful if you do buy a Zoeller pump that you're getting one made recently. I put in a "new" Zoeller pump 18 months ago that failed about a month ago. Turns out the pump was manufactured in June of 2006 and sold to me as new. I contacted Zoeller who was very helpful, but the dealer should never have sold me a pump that was sitting on his shelf for so long. They told me that from sitting on the shelf the seals start to dry out and will eventually fail. I ended up getting the stainless Ridgid pump from HD just because it has the same fitting on it as my existing piping. I'm not saying to avoid the Zoeller pumps as their reputation is also why I got one initially, but just be careful that you know hold old it is when you buy it.

And I also think its illegal to pump ground water into your sewer. Be very careful if you do this because if you go to sell the house (or pull a permit for something else) you might have a problem on your hands.

Eric

 

[dumbodog00]

I agree, get one that can be repaired/replaced locally. I have bought two from Lowes because of my water issues. Both have lifetime warranties. I had problems with one of them and they no longer had same model in the store. The company got me a replacement in two days. I have found that you get what you pay for in pumps.