I am nearing my install completion, one question i have is about connecting my supervent stainless steel chimney to the duratech double wall stovepipe. The adapter that came with my supervent through the wall kit seems to not entirely fit into the double wall stovepipe. The male end of the adaptor goes into the stovepipe, but will not go the whole way in and leaves about a half inch gap from the outer edge of the dvl to the adaptor itself. but like i said, the crimped end of the adaptor fits tightly into the inner lining of the dvl. should I be concerned with this and does anyone else have this setup that could chime in? thanks
supervent chimney to dvl stovepipe question, please help.
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daryl
Feeling the Heat
does anyone else have this setup of a supervent chimney adaptor into duratech double wall stove pipe? Any problems with the connection gap?
Resi....I think the finishing band you are talking about is for the seikirk chimney adapter into seikirk DSP. I have duratech DVL and there is a distinct gap in the outer shell of the stovepipe where it meets the supervent chimney adapter....is the finishing collar sufficient for my purpose as well?
daryl
Feeling the Heat
Sorry thought you had Selkirk. As long as the inside fits you should be fine. Use screws to keep it secure.
I already had the duratech stovepipe and I had read on here that you could use which ever stove pipe regardless of chimney pipe brand. I guess that only applies to single wall stovepipe? Anyways, will this be a problem or will it work ok...I remember a thread a while back where I thought someone else had this issue, but I couldn't find it. Thanks
Ok so now the absence of many answers has me freaking out and praying that I do not have to tear out my duratech dvl stovepipe and buy all new seilkirk dsp stovepipe. I obviously made a rookie mistake in thinking it did not matter what stovepipe you used with a supervent chimney. But now that I have and I am set up ready to burn, I really need to know if anyone else has tried this setup and it works fine or if it is absolutely a no go...will not work...go back to the store and drop another $300 you rookie fool?!? Please help....I know someone out there has this setup or at least tried it as I remember seeing a thread on it months ago. Thank you
SolarAndWood
Minister of Fire
I'm having a hard time picturing what you are running into but I use DVL into a Metalbestos ceiling adapter. I couldn't get a nice snug fit until I pulled the stove out a few feet and extended the telescopic section. Then, pushed the stove back into place. The DVL then fit snugly against the ceiling and I fastened it in place. I seem to remember a couple people saying they had to trim their adapters to get the DVL to fit like mine did.
jstellfox said:
Yep, that was for single-wall. Double-wall connections unfortunately don't match from vendor to vendor.
so is there a way to modify the adaptor so it would work safely...I mean as long as the inner crimped liner of the adaptor inserts into the DVL I'm fine even with the gap right?
The mating systems are very different between the two brands. Selkirk's outer edge is crimped, Simpson's is flush. I would be concerned about the depth of penetration by using the dissimilar brands. A half-inch would not give me much peace of mind. I've never tried this and will have to defer to an installer that has and can comment on the success or problems. Maybe a field made inner liner extension has been tried?
BeGreen, I measured the depth of penetration of the crimped adapter into the Duratech DVL and it goes in an inch and a quarter. This seems ok to me, what do you think? It just leaves then a 1 inch gap from the outershell of the dvl to the adapter. This one inch gap would essentially be single wall I guess? If the inch and a quarter penetration is fine, how about using a selkirk double wall finishing band to conceal the 1 inch gap in the outer shell basically bringing it back up to double wall through the gap???zsza
If this is being inspected, it shouldn't pass if that is any guide. That said, it may be ok if you can get it mechnically anchored with 3 screws, but defer judgment to someone that has already done this. It is not fully kosher with the 1" single wall exposure so I guess it depends on one's comfort and insurance level. Perhaps you could get a 2" wide strap of sheetmetal to make a collar that would finish the outer layer and then paint it high-temp black?
ckdeuce
Feeling the Heat
jstellfox said:
I have the exact same setup. Exactly. I was worried as well. I sent emails to both companies, and they both told me the same thing... "Don't worry about it. Secure it with three screws. No need for anything else" I have never had a problem. I can email or post pictures if you like just so you feel safe. But you and I have the same setup. No worries.
ckdeuce
Feeling the Heat
ckdeuce
Feeling the Heat
Thats exactly what I have been looking for to ease my mind....Me and my wife owe you a beer for easing my mind. I must be driving her crazy with my worrying. You are correct also that is the same exact setup and the only thing I may do differently is put a band around the gap to close it in....I have combustible material within 18" of that gap and even though it is small, thats essentially single wall within that gap I think. Whats your take on that?
ckdeuce
Feeling the Heat
jstellfox said:
This is too funny.... I asked the reps from both companies the 18" rule as well..... Nope, they said that it is not an issue, just use the 6" to walls and 8" to ceiling rule. They said that it is 100% safe and such a small area can not create enough heat to cause an issue.
I will take you up on the beer. I'm a bit north of Pittsburgh, let me know when you are in town
- CheersOk well thanks for the info...one other question for anyone and then hopefully I'll disappear! My chimney install has been challenging due to old house issues. My out through the wall setup leaves 2 options for cleaning the chimney. The obvious from the top method (very steep roof and tall stack make this very dangerous)...or from the tee up (but my tee is below ground level so the brush cannot make the bend as it is more than a 90 degree angle. So I am at a loss as to efficiently and safely clean my new chimney. Why don't they make an optional section of chimney pipe that have a cleanout door that you can install 4 feet or so up your flue? Even another inline Tee section that you could install at eye level for cleaning access would work great. Any ideas on what I can do?
ckdeuce said:jstellfox said:
This is too funny.... I asked the reps from both companies the 18" rule as well..... Nope, they said that it is not an issue, just use the 6" to walls and 8" to ceiling rule. They said that it is 100% safe and such a small area can not create enough heat to cause an issue.
I will take you up on the beer. I'm a bit north of Pittsburgh, let me know when you are in town
Oh and we are big Penguin fans, so we do actually get out that way occasionally! Go Pens
ckdeuce
Feeling the Heat
ckdeuce said:jstellfox said:
This is too funny.... I asked the reps from both companies the 18" rule as well..... Nope, they said that it is not an issue, just use the 6" to walls and 8" to ceiling rule. They said that it is 100% safe and such a small area can not create enough heat to cause an issue.
I will take you up on the beer. I'm a bit north of Pittsburgh, let me know when you are in town
My wife said I may have come off a little "Gay" with the smiley face.... Not my intention....
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