The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[griam01]

Gives it more draft different lengths of flue requires different amount of air. My insert he has a long flue about 24 feet I can close the air completely my stove the equivalent of the insert has a 14 foot flue I need to keep the air open about 1/4 on slow burns.

I have a 25 foot flue. I can get decent burn times I think all the way closed down but my ash and coals are filling most of the bottom by morning.

What is your reload procedure? What temp do you reload at or what are your looking for before you reload? Do you put just a few pieces on to get it fired back up again on the coals or do you full load immediately? Do you take the coals around level or all up front?Approximately how long do you leave the door open? Do you close your bypass or air down first? How long before each? I am sorry for all the questions I just feel like I am missing something with my reload and I could be doing better. Thank you in advance for your help.


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[griam01]

Try keep the bypass open a little longer and keep the main air open full longer then close 1/4 at a time with about 10 min in between.

I tried this tonight and here are my results. I left both open for about 15 mins and closed the bypass after a reload. (My wood is not very close to the glass does this make a difference?)

It was at 700 degrees when I closed the bypass. Within a few mins I was up to 1150. I took the air down 1/4 closed.

I waited 10 mins and the temp was at 1300. I closed to 1/2 closed, waited 10 mins and the temp was at 1350. I closed to 3/4 closed, waited 10 mins again, the temp was at 1200 and I closed it all the way.

I don't notice any difference on my glass though.


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[griam01]

I tried this tonight and here are my results. I left both open for about 15 mins and closed the bypass after a reload. (My wood is not very close to the glass does this make a difference?)

It was at 700 degrees when I closed the bypass. Within a few mins I was up to 1150. I took the air down 1/4 closed.

I waited 10 mins and the temp was at 1300. I closed to 1/2 closed, waited 10 mins and the temp was at 1350. I closed to 3/4 closed, waited 10 mins again, the temp was at 1200 and I closed it all the way.

I don't notice any difference on my glass though.


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My burn is a lot different after doing this. The flames are all over the front. Is this what it is supposed to be doing? It looks violent in there but my temps are steady at 1050 here is a video.




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[Heizer]

That is bad it's normally the corners get black on slow burns not the middle that stays clear. The moisture is that on the outside of the wood or split and inside reading? Also split wood that is inside the house to get an accurate reading.

Hi Wolves1. The moisture reading is after splitting the wood. I have contacted my dealer now and asking for someone to come out and have a look as I have the strong suspicion that the air is not flowing correctly inside the unit. There should be a downdraft in front of the glass from the air wash. I don't recognize any of that.

 

[Heizer]

Try keep the bypass open a little longer and keep the main air open full longer then close 1/4 at a time with about 10 min in between.

Doesn't change much. As soon as the main air control is over 1/2 closed it builds up quickly.

 

[vetrano]

Hi again, Nearly 4 weeks later with several continuous burns I still have the same problem with the CI2600 glass. The build up occurs after every load and I am scraping this stuff off nearly two times a day. I am wondering why no one else has this problem and looking at the recent post you guys seem to have decent fires going with your CI2600 without this problem. My wood is seasoned and less than 15% moisture, so this can't really be the problem. Therefore I am back to my initial thought that something is wrong with the internal airflow and air wash. Where does the air come from for the air wash? Same for the secondary air tube. I don't see anything really going on with that either. Any thoughts? TThanks

I am getting similar buildup on the glass of my new ci2600. My unit was manufactured in October 2016. I'm wondering if the new units restrict air more than the ones built last season as a friend's ci2600 installed last winter doesn't get as black and cannot choke the air as much (similar chimney length).

I suspect that choking the air to lengthen burn times gives the advertised performance at the expense of black glass.

One thing I want to experiment with is distance of the wood to the glass to see if it affects buildup. Can anyone comment on this?

I have not removed any door shims yet and need to do the paper test. Would air leakage increase buildup on the glass?

 

[griam01]

For mine I did just remove a shim after the build up on the glass. It is a bit harder to shut but I noticed that my upper left corner above the handle did not pass the paper test. The other corners did. The black on my glass was there before then but I can't tell if it has got worse or not since removing the shim a week or so ago.


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[Wolves1]

My burn is a lot different after doing this. The flames are all over the front. Is this what it is supposed to be doing? It looks violent in there but my temps are steady at 1050 here is a video.




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The flame looks great but some of the flame seams to keep going to the corner of the door. Try to fluff up the gasket on the door.

 

[Wolves1]

Doesn't change much. As soon as the main air control is over 1/2 closed it builds up quickly.

It's normal to get some black on the glass corner but what's happening to you is really bad. See if your stove has the plate that makes the hole smaller and see if you can take it off. It's easy to do just loosen the bolts and the plate should slide up.

 

[griam01]

The flame looks great but some of the flame seams to keep going to the corner of the door. Try to fluff up the gasket on the door.

It did pass the paper test in those areas but that was a week ago since I did the test and removed one shim. I will try to fluff it on that right side and see if it makes a difference. Thanks.

Still would love to get your reload specifics and timelines when you have time to make sure I am doing everything right.


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[Heizer]

It's normal to get some black on the glass corner but what's happening to you is really bad. See if your stove has the plate that makes the hole smaller and see if you can take it off. It's easy to do just loosen the bolts and the plate should slide up.

Thanks Wolves1 will try, but which plate do you mean?

 

[griam01]

Thanks Wolves1 will try, but which plate do you mean?

I think he means the primary air. There is a long thread when owners first got the ci2600 that mentions it and there is a picture in the thread somewhere. If you search the forum you should find it.


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[Wolves1]

Thanks Wolves1 will try, but which plate do you mean?

The primary air when you open the door it's where the air goes into the firebox. There are two bolts don't need to take them out just loosen them and the plate slides out from the top. If the new stoves still come with it on not sure.

 

[Heizer]

The primary air when you open the door it's where the air goes into the firebox. There are two bolts don't need to take them out just loosen them and the plate slides out from the top. If the new stoves still come with it on not sure.

Thanks. Will do that tonight.

 

[Heizer]

I am getting similar buildup on the glass of my new ci2600. My unit was manufactured in October 2016. I'm wondering if the new units restrict air more than the ones built last season as a friend's ci2600 installed last winter doesn't get as black and cannot choke the air as much (similar chimney length).

I suspect that choking the air to lengthen burn times gives the advertised performance at the expense of black glass.

One thing I want to experiment with is distance of the wood to the glass to see if it affects buildup. Can anyone comment on this?

I have not removed any door shims yet and need to do the paper test. Would air leakage increase buildup on the glass?

My unit was bought in September, so it could be related to some changes they have made. I have sent pictures to my dealer and asked them to investigate with Regency. I will post what the reply is. Yesterday I removed one of the shims and saw quite some improvement. So I would assume at this point that leakage through the door could support this build up.

 

[Wolves1]

I was just thinking what can be causing the blacking of glass it hit me this morning. Sometimes the ash packs into the air hole in the front, take the tool with a hook to clear some of the ash. There is a metal cover with a slit in front of the air hole that fills with ash again use the tool to take the ash out.

 

[Wolves1]

 

[Wolves1]

That can give you lack of draft that can cause the glass to go black.

 

[Wolves1]

If that works I have to give credit where credit is do about two years ago when I got my stove I was not get proper draft and my wife tells me that maybe ash is blocking the air.

 

[vetrano]

I was just thinking what can be causing the blacking of glass it hit me this morning. Sometimes the ash packs into the air hole in the front, take the tool with a hook to clear some of the ash. There is a metal cover with a slit in front of the air hole that fills with ash again use the tool to take the ash out.

I do make sure the air intake is not blocked when loading wood. Can't say it doesn't shift and end up blocking the hole, but I find air blows out of it pretty strong (it will burn a hole through an east west log in front of it).

 

[Wolves1]

I do make sure the air intake is not blocked when loading wood. Can't say it doesn't shift and end up blocking the hole, but I find air blows out of it pretty strong (it will burn a hole through an east west log in front of it).

Did they run a liner and how tall is the liner and did they go all the way up the chimney and is it 5.5 or a 6 inch liner?

 

[Wolves1]

I have a 25 foot flue. I can get decent burn times I think all the way closed down but my ash and coals are filling most of the bottom by morning.

What is your reload procedure? What temp do you reload at or what are your looking for before you reload? Do you put just a few pieces on to get it fired back up again on the coals or do you full load immediately? Do you take the coals around level or all up front?Approximately how long do you leave the door open? Do you close your bypass or air down first? How long before each? I am sorry for all the questions I just feel like I am missing something with my reload and I could be doing better. Thank you in advance for your help.


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I break the hot coals and spread them all around the stove just place the wood over the coals once it it's 550 close the bypass I close the air 1/2 wait for temps to go up about 700-800 then I close completely, how much you close your air depends on how much draft you get.

 

[vetrano]

Did they run a liner and how tall is the liner and did they go all the way up the chimney and is it 5.5 or a 6 inch liner?

The liner is about 24'. It is a Regency 5.5" liner (the only one listed in the dealer price book). I would say the draft is excellent as you can hear the stove sucking air through the intake when it is fully open. The control is very effective and when you close it down it drastically affects the fire.

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[Wolves1]

The liner is about 24'. It is a Regency 5.5" liner (the only one listed in the dealer price book). I would say the draft is excellent as you can hear the stove sucking air through the intake when it is fully open. The control is very effective and when you close it down it drastically affects the fire.

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Can you send a picture of what it looks like?

 

[vetrano]

Can you send a picture of what it looks like?

I just wiped the glass with a damp paper towel before adding a few logs. I took the haze off but didn't scrub the black stphot
Let me know if you wanted a photo of something else.