Tin Snips are not my friends (how do I trim a stove pipe?)

[jotulburner]

Any tips on the right way to trim a stove pipe. I already know the wrong way to trim one.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

the right snips make a big difference

drill hole, fit tip of electic nibblers in, turn them on and spin the pipe

i wouldn't try it w/o electric shears, but have seen various saws used with some sucsess

 

[vvvv]

metal cutting disk/blade on a circular saw + glasses & gloves + another person unless u aint got the bladeguard on the circular saw...........on round pipe, marked

 

[Dakotas Dad]

I had my best luck with a good old hacksaw. Everything else seemed like it was going to crush the pipe, or other problems.

 

[pen]

I use a sawzall w/ metal blade to get started in the pipe then switch to a jig saw w/ metal blade. Could just stick w/ the sawzall.

Not saying this is any better than what was suggested, but it has worked for me.

The tin snips work fine so long as the pipe is still flat and not had the seam sealed.

pen

 

[begreen]

I have heavy duty aviation sheers that can handle the stuff, but you need a strong hand and a confident cut. Otherwise it's fishhook city. If it is only one pipe, you might take it to a stove or sheetmetal shop and have them cut if for you. Otherwise, a metal blade in a jigsaw should work. Hold the piece very firmly or better yet have an assistant to help hold the pipe while you cut. If uncertain, make a cut wide of the final mark first as a practice cut.

 

[BrotherBart]

Fact is that a utility knife or pocket knife will cut a flex liner just fine. Then just cut off the joint band with side cutters. Plain old wire cutters.

Edit: Sorry. For stove pipe aviation snips are the dog nuts. Get the straight cutters.

 

[cptoneleg]

Just installed mine used small 4" grinder with thin metal cutting blade and everything Blimp said. And yes years ago I used tin snips once.

 

[begreen]

Fact is that a utility knife or pocket knife will cut a flex liner just fine. Then just cut off the joint band with side cutters. Plain old wire cutters.

Edit: Sorry. For stove pipe aviation snips are the dog nuts. Get the straight cutters.

Did some tin knocking in my former life. It's a skill. For 6" round pipe I would not be using the straights. Too many fishhooks that way.

 

[rustynut]

Hey Begreen,
If you have experience with these I have to ask (cause I dont know): Why right, left & straight ?
rn

 

[BrotherBart]

Fact is that a utility knife or pocket knife will cut a flex liner just fine. Then just cut off the joint band with side cutters. Plain old wire cutters.

Edit: Sorry. For stove pipe aviation snips are the dog nuts. Get the straight cutters.

Did some tin knocking in my former life. It's a skill. For 6" round pipe I would not be using the straights. Too many fishhooks that way.

I yield to experience. But the only one in my set that gets it done with stainless pipe is the straight cut pair. Which probably says more about me than it does about the snips. :red:

 

[begreen]

If you have experience with these I have to ask (cause I dont know): Why right, left & straight ?
rn

I use straight sheers when I have a clear straight line cut on flat metal or for cutting slips and drives and I use the r/l curves for when cutting on a curve or cutting a pipe where I can pull up the metal as it is cut. Kind of hard to explain, but easy to show. I looked for a youtube video, but haven't seen any. Just electric shear videos there. Remind me and I will post one. I'm surprised that no one has done this already.

It depends on the direction of the cut. You want the metal to be curling upward on the inside of the cut. For round pipe I would probably use my red snips cutting in towards the cut line in a counterclockwise arc. Then, once on the line you need to pull up on the cut piece as you cut along the line. (Wear leather gloves unless you do this a lot.) If the scrap gets big an cumbersome, head your cut to the outside of the pipe and cut the scrap off. When in doubt, make a coarse cut first, maybe 1/4" away from the cut line. Then come back and do the finish cut.

Also note that there are different types of aviation snips (offset or not) and different brands. I prefer Wiss. It also helps to put a drop of oil on the blade before cutting, especially with heavier gauge metal.

 

[begreen]

Fact is that a utility knife or pocket knife will cut a flex liner just fine. Then just cut off the joint band with side cutters. Plain old wire cutters.

Edit: Sorry. For stove pipe aviation snips are the dog nuts. Get the straight cutters.

Did some tin knocking in my former life. It's a skill. For 6" round pipe I would not be using the straights. Too many fishhooks that way.

I yield to experience. But the only one in my set that gets it done with stainless pipe is the straight cut pair. Which probably says more about me than it does about the snips. :red:

I was thinking black stove pipe. Stainless is a pain to cut, it is harder metal. I haven't used electric shears much, but this is a case where I might prefer to use them.

 

[rustynut]

fyi: broke my nibbler tip on stainless.
rn

 

[Dune]

fyi: broke my nibbler tip on stainless.
rn

Nibbler and shear blades are consumables (replacable). As mentioned above, pipe is easy enough to cut until it is snapped together. It then becomes much more difficult to cut with hand snips, but it can be done, requires much extra cutting to provide clearance.

If you are having trouble with tin snips, you probably have a low quality or worn out pair. To be sure, the aviation style snips are the way to go, and like everything else you get what you pay for ( buy Wiss brand).

 

[begreen]

I defer to Dune, a working pro. My brother is still in the trade, but my snips have long ago been replaced by mouse and keyboard.

PS: It looks like Cooper Tools has sold out. I am heading to our local stores to see if there are any made in US snips left.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40381&showall=1

 

[Dune]

I defer to Dune, a working pro. My brother is still in the trade, but my snips have long ago been replaced by mouse and keyboard.

Thanks for the recognition, but I don't see the need for deferment, I thought I agreed with what you said.

 

[jotulburner]

Thanks. Nice to know that there is a certain skill level needed. I bought a pair of straight snips and it was "fish Hook city". Thought I was just not coordinated enough, But the snips were cheap ones from HD, and it was my first attempt. I think I will call Hearth Dr and see if they will trim one for me. Otherwise I will borrow a freinds sawsall.

 

[Wallyworld]

If you are having trouble with tin snips, you probably have a low quality or worn out pair. To be sure, the aviation style snips are the way to go, and like everything else you get what you pay for ( buy Wiss brand).

I think even Wiss is made in China now so not sure if they are still the cats meow

 

[Dune]

If you are having trouble with tin snips, you probably have a low quality or worn out pair. To be sure, the aviation style snips are the way to go, and like everything else you get what you pay for ( buy Wiss brand).

I think even Wiss is made in China now so not sure if they are still the cats meow

That is disturbing news. In the machinist trade we use a tool called "transfer screws". Because of the vast number of tools and next day receiving, we often only buy tools as we need them. Due to the multitude of thread sizes and types, I never aquired a full set. When I recently ordered a set for a job, they came soft, that is not heat treated for hardness, and no longer stamped on the case with the manufacturer's name. Since they are esentialy center punches, soft was useless, the set of six not even lasting for the 21 holes I had to mark. The supplier was very good about sending me another set for free, also soft. The loss of access to quality tools is a great tragedy for the future of manufacturing in this country, where one of our greatest strengths has always been the quality of tools "Made in the U.S.A."

I hate to think what would happen if we had a real war.

 

[Swedishchef]

Just my 2 cents, what about telescopic stove pipe lengths??

Andrew

 

[begreen]

I defer to Dune, a working pro. My brother is still in the trade, but my snips have long ago been replaced by mouse and keyboard.

Thanks for the recognition, but I don't see the need for deferment, I thought I agreed with what you said.

My snips are over 20 years old. If there have been any changes, I have not kept up with them. And I expect you have a lot more experience with power tools of the trade. I have hardly used a nibbler.

 

[Wallyworld]

If you are having trouble with tin snips, you probably have a low quality or worn out pair. To be sure, the aviation style snips are the way to go, and like everything else you get what you pay for ( buy Wiss brand).

I think even Wiss is made in China now so not sure if they are still the cats meow

That is disturbing news. In the machinist trade we use a tool called "transfer screws". Because of the vast number of tools and next day receiving, we often only buy tools as we need them. Due to the multitude of thread sizes and types, I never aquired a full set. When I recently ordered a set for a job, they came soft, that is not heat treated for hardness, and no longer stamped on the case with the manufacturer's name. Since they are esentialy center punches, soft was useless, the set of six not even lasting for the 21 holes I had to mark. The supplier was very good about sending me another set for free, also soft. The loss of access to quality tools is a great tragedy for the future of manufacturing in this country, where one of our greatest strengths has always been the quality of tools "Made in the U.S.A."

I hate to think what would happen if we had a real war.

Even Snap On, who I consider to be the finest hand tool manufacturer in the known free world has stopped labeling some of their tools"made in the USA". They claim they still are made in the US but folks have their doubts. Snap On bought a huge tool company in China called Wanda
http://www.wanda-tools.com/about.asp

 

[rowerwet]

I have to cut a lot of sheet metal for my job (aircraft mechanic who does a lot of sheetmetal repairs) the best snips I use are the type that have two cutting blades with a "foot" blade that comes up in the middle, I got them at Home Depot I think they were Wiss. The nice thing about them is that the two blades makes it so you cut a thin (1/4" or so) ribbon of metal in the middle that curls up as you go, no wrestling with the snips trying to keep them straight as the sheet catches on the handles.
here is a link with a picture
http://www.northwaysmachinery.com/product_detail.asp?ItemNumber=Wiss M41R Double Cut Pipe Duct Snip

(for some reason the link isn't all in blue you will have to cut and paste into the search bar)

 

[tinknocker]

The easiest way to cut stove pipe if its not put together is with large bull snips.
If its already together you cut it with the left and right snips. You make a small slit with a hammer and a screw driver and you cut with both snips at the same time peeling a small strip of metal as you go.........very easy.
by the way the red snips are the lefts (because they cut to the left) and the green ones are the rights (because they cut to the right when you use them)
One last thing when your cutting if you don't close the snips all the way each time you squeeze them you won't get those fish hooks.
Metabo works good also especially on heavier pipe
anything is better than a sawsall..............even a axe......lol
my two cents