To sleeve or not to sleeve

[ccady]

This now my favorite website...learning a lot. I am installing a VC Vigilant in my living room fireplace. The stove has an 8" oval pipe outlet. I plan on purchasing an 8" Duraliner flex pipe (60") http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5SP-4860-OF to get through the smoke chamber up to the first flue tile. I have heard a lot about going with stainless pipe through the entire flue...expensive. The stove manual recommends that the surface area of the flue should not be more than 3X the surface area of the stove outlet. With the flue I plan to use at approximately 10 3/4 X 10 3/4 I fall within the guidelines so a poor draft shouldn't be an issue. The flue is in excellent condition, built in 1990, clay tile lined. Have not yet met with the building inspector but am told that as long as the manufacturer installation instructions are followed as stated in the manual I may not need to line the whole flue in stainless. What is the benefit of essentially putting a chimney inside a perfectly good existing chimney? Thanks!

 

[woodgeek]

If you know your clay flue is good, then such a 'direct connect' deal is fine safety-wise, so long as you burn it clean, keep it inspected/swept and you're not canadian. The big advantage of the full liner route is that it is easier/less messy to clean--just run the brush down the liner and all the crp is in the stove VS with a direct connect half lands on the smoke shelf. I went the direct connect route as a 'stopgap' solution with an old stove, b/c I can't fit a 8" liner in my flue. When I buy a new stove it will need a 6" liner anyways.

 

[woodgeek]

Oh yeah...with a direct connect a sturdy, insulated block off plate is a must.

 

[ccady]

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

 

[begreen]

ccady, welcome. With an exterior flue, a full liner can improve draft and reduce creosote buildup, especially if it's insulated. It also makes for easier cleaning of the flue.