Troubleshooting fast wood consumption on Jotul Rockland... or has anyone replaced INNER air manifol

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cnice_37

Member
Mar 24, 2011
55
Assonet MA
Hi all,

Great forum, I have been lurking for the 4 or so years since I've become a full time wood burner.

Just this year my Jotul Rockland insert stopped burning well. The fire was being choked out it seemed. So I went through the motions and fixed this somehow. The problem was not the wood, and it seemed that after a good cleaning the problem was solved. I didn't get that much creosote, but I also did one other thing.

In an attempt to improve burn time, I allowed the primary air control to close further, by grinding down a 'stop' bump as I read about here.

In re-assembling, the gaskets sealing the inner air manifold fell off (old and crumbly), and I did not re-install.

(Sorry for the long story.)

Well, the fire was no longer choked out, and burning too fast now.

Fast forward, re-install new gaskets on the inner air manifold as best I could (you have to literally stick your head in the firebox to see what the heck you're doing). The air control is definitely doing something - but the burn time is actually shorter now than before. I haven't figured out how much, but I am almost certain I created an air leak. Yes, I am doing this all by "feel" and no scientific data - but I'm burning wood not making rockets.

So... has anyone replaced these inner air gaskets? There are 2 - one sits in a channel, and one sits on a "lip." Any tips for sealing? My installation actually "looked" pretty good and clean, and with my temper and patience, I was actually pretty damn proud that I managed to do that in there.

Is there any way to pinpoint an air leak?

Any other advice?

If it helps, go here to p. 20 for an IPL and drawing of the newer model (my stove is from 2007.)

http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Technical Documentation/Wood inserts (USA)/Jøtul C 550 CB Rockland/Manual_138940_Rev_C C 550 CB Manual.pdf

Thanks all.
 
cnice, I would have tired to get your dealer involved. I must say though I am confused. You stated your fire was choking out and you fixed it "somehow". What action did you take? Then you state your fire is burning too fast after your mod to it. That air inspection plate has 2 bolts, a gasket, and the cover its self. If you replaced the gasket with the same type we use to manufacture the stove and tightened the bolts there should be no difference. I personally would not have make any in home changes to the air control. Did you grind the base of the box or the slide? If its the slide i would recommend buying a new one and trying that. All that being said, i would point my finger at the wood for both your choking problem and your fast fire problem. Has your wood supply changed over the course of those issues? Do you have a moisture meter?
 
hey jotulguy...

My fix was to clean the flue, and subsequently clean out the debris internal to the firebox by the standard method (removing baffles, air tubes, etc.) and re-installing all items. Note I clean the flue after removing all the guts first (much cleaner operation!) Nothing appeared out of the ordinary, about the normal creosote buildup after close to a full season of burning hardwood. In terms of beer (something we can all relate to) I probably get 4-5 12oz. cans worth of creosote.

The wood is the same supply, a majority of red oak mixed with maple. The supply is seasoned the same amount of time, and I do not have a moisture meter.

The item described in my link as the Airwash manifold has 3 bolts (on my '07 model.) That guy has 2 gaskets, one in a channel on the upper part, and then one sits on a lip on the lower portion right near the slider. The cover has 3 bolts I believe as well. Install cover, install airwash manifold. For clarity, if we are using different nomenclature, the airwash manifold is the piece that is internal to the firebox. It is this guy solely that is sealed with those 2 gaskets.

The mod I made was to the airwash manifold itself. I can't see how increasing the closed position (by grinding down the stop) should make anything worse. Its an EPA thing and I chose to bypass it. I read up on the FLA bungalow syndrome and I have a high chimney with plenty of draft. I have no warranty left so it was a mod I felt was fairly safe to implement.

Oh, and thanks for the feedback!
 
Well I solved my problem, and just wanted to complete my post so in the future someone else can reference it.

What I did to solve the "too much air" problem was to take the inner air manifold off again as this was the only thing that really changed.

I replaced the channel (outer) gasket and trimmed the tape gasket (inner one that sits on the ridge) so that it fit exactly end to end, with no overlap. Previously I had probably an inch or so too long on one side and rounded the corner with it - which in retrospect was a poor choice.

This job isn't so much as difficult as it is uncomfortable. My hearth is about 20" from stove front to edge, and raised a good 6" from floor. So with head stuck inside stove, and hearth jammed halfway into my back, I removed, cleaned, and replaced both gaskets as neatly as I could. I then fitted the air manifold back. The trick for doing this easily was to start a side bolt first, line up one end carefully (the ear for the bolt is open on the end allowing you to slide it in). You can now use that to hold one side in, go ahead and thread the opposing end bolt. With these 2 in place, line up the center long bolt. This guy is a pain as it is kind of angled. Previously I started with the center bolt, and this is a much harder way to do it, and with the manifold rubbing against the gaskets, moving it too much ends up messing with gaskets.

An hour or so later, I started up the fire and an hour after that the secondaries were kicking in and working their magic.

Now, I hope the modded bump stop will extend my burn time by an hour or two. Next season - block off plate!

Oh, and this is the best freaking flashlight known to man (or at least me.) Clamping this on the back secondary and swivelling about gave me two hands to work with and see everything. I think it was $35 and worth every penny. http://www.blackfire-usa.com/proddetail.php?prod=001
 
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