u guys will laugh so hard ur gonna cry..pics

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steeltowninwv

steeltowninwv

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Nov 16, 2010
768
west virginia
me the one with all the dumb questions...wants to learn and quit asking dumb questions...gonna rebuild an 025 i got ripped on about a year ago...bought it for 100.00 and it needed bearings without me knowing it....well i tore down the whole saw tonight..im including pics of piston and cylinder...to me the cylinder looks fine...piston is iffy...its about half black on top of the piston that u cant see in the pics...so heres some more questions..lol...should i buy piston...cylinder?...and how the hell do i get the bearings off the shaft?..this my first try at this so any tips would be appreciated....

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New piston/rings time for sure. Can't tell from the picture but I would say the cylinder probably has similar scratches. I would change both.
A special tool is made for this but this also works. To pull the bearings, use a 3 jaw puller and heat on the inner race only (not the shaft) of each bearing while slowly applying pressure on the puller. Should come off with minimal effort if the puller can get a good bite. To get the bearings back on, stick the crank asembly in the freezer for a day and heat the bearings in the oven to 250 or so. This next part must be done quickly and you need to have the specs handy for clearances between the bearings and the crank half. Pull the crank out of the freezer and slide the hot bearings onto each side. If the shaft is clean they should slide right on.Check that the distance between the bearing and the crank half is correct and you're done.
Or you can just give it to the local shop and have them do it. Much less hassle but not nearly as satisfying.
 
steeltowninwv said:
me the one with all the dumb questions...wants to learn and quit asking dumb questions...gonna rebuild an 025 i got ripped on about a year ago...bought it for 100.00 and it needed bearings without me knowing it....well i tore down the whole saw tonight..im including pics of piston and cylinder...to me the cylinder looks fine...piston is iffy...its about half black on top of the piston that u cant see in the pics...so heres some more questions..lol...should i buy piston...cylinder?...and how the hell do i get the bearings off the shaft?..this my first try at this so any tips would be appreciated....
Click to expand...

Piston is toast. Here's how you get the bearings off. You're gonna have a hard time with a jaw type puller.

[Hearth.com] u guys will laugh so hard ur gonna cry..pics


$40 down at your local Harbor Freight and you will get a lot of use out of it if you keep wrenching. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

The advice about freezing the crank and heating the bearings to re-assemble is good, but the bearings only need to be warm, about 120::F tops.
 
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MasterMech said:
Piston is toast. Here's how you get the bearings off. You're gonna have a hard time with a jaw type puller.

[Hearth.com] u guys will laugh so hard ur gonna cry..pics


$40 down at your local Harbor Freight and you will get a lot of use out of it if you keep wrenching. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

The advice about freezing the crank and heating the bearings to re-assemble is good, but the bearings only need to be warm, about 120::F tops.
Click to expand...


That's the tool. For the life of me I couldn't find a picture of it.
The only reason I go to 240 degrees is that is the lowest my oven goes. plus it gives me a little more working time.
 
What MasterMech said. It's called a bearing splitter, and that kit is the exact one I use. A 3-jaw is useless in this situation.

That said, if you heat the bearing, you may get it off without a splitter. Either way, you're not going to reuse a pulled bearing.

Easiest method for re-install without an arbor press: Throw the crank in the freezer for 30 minutes. Set the new bearing atop a 40 watt lightbulb for 5 - 10 minutes. Grab the crank out of the freezer, walk over to the table lamp(s) holding your bearings, pull the bearing off the bulb and slide it onto the shaft lickety-split. You only get one shot at it, before the temperature delta closes and the bearing locks onto the shaft. If you mess up, pull the bearing, throw it in the trash, and start over with a new bearing.

The reason for the 40w lightbulb and 5 - 10 minutes? If you get the bearing too hot, the grease will run out.

If using an arbor press, just make sure you're pressing solely on the inner race. Any axial force on the outer race can damage the bearing.

<--- has changed WAY too many motor bearings for one lifetime
 
Bump ! Steel town , any progress?
 
its all torn down and cleaned up now...deciding on what aftermarket cylinder and piston to buy...any suggestions?....i also stripped the muffler of all paint and rust..paint tomorow...its gonna be a process for me ..im in no hurry..
 
Meteor pistons seem tobe highly recommended . As to cylinders ... Don't know . One thing that I do recall is that most builders use OEM wrist pin clips as opposed to aftermarket ones .
 
Bump! Steel town ,any progress?
 
im thinking hard about buying an oem brand new complete engine off ebay..139.00.....little higher than i wanted to put in it but its oem and complete.......gonna rebuild the carb on saturday....
 
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Sound like a good plan to me ! Keep us posted.
 
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