Update on OAK kit

[Jim H.]

I ordered the 2" OAK kit and had it within a week for @ 48 bucks. I found a reducer at an auto parts store that was 2.5" down to 2" and used that. I did have to shave a little off the 2.5" side to get to fit inside the collar on the stove. I used a dremel but a bench grinder would have been faster and easier. The hose is a little to short to run exactly the way I want to but will fit at an angle from the rear of the stove up to about 4' above the floor on the opposite side of the brick for the chimney. As you look at the pic of my stove from my signature it is on the left side. What I want to do is run it straight down the side of the brick. This will help hide it from one angle because the brick actually sticks out further then the wall does. So, down the brick then across the back to the stove. I will have to pick up another 2" run of hose (need about 3') and a connector. I ran it last night and worked like a charm!

A question is also:do any of you insulate your OAK? It seemed pretty cold and it was in the low 60's. Thanks.....

Jim

 

[imacman]

There have been a few members who have had water condensation form on the outside of the OAK tubing during the winter, and wrapped it w/ insulation.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

If you do not have water condensation, then I would definitely NOT recommend insulating the OAK pipe. I tried insulating mine with really good fiberglass insulation. What I found was that in the shoulder seasons when the outside air temp is moderate and contains more moisture that it can add that moisture to the pellets and cause an auger jam. This ONLY happened on a very low heat setting. Also I have a OAK on my oil boiler and my Boiler Analyst (all he does all day is answer internal and external boiler questions) highly recommended that the OAK air be tempered by a longer run inside to the boiler.

Warming up the OAK air is actually a good thing before it enters the stove. My stove and some other stoves actually mix room air with OAK air to help avoid auger jams.

So those are the facts and BTW I removed all my OAK insulation and it works a little better. Not alot different but you get the idea.

 

[doublewide]

So, Just wondering why it is not up to code to use a PVC OAK? It is not like it gets hot. Also the price would be a lot less.

 

[New Hampshire Jim]

Jim H
I have a Harman Advance and from day one I have had the OAK insulated. I have two reasons for doing this. 1 I figured up here In Plaistow N.H. the air I would be bringing In would average 30. Deg. In the winter months and the intake pipe would reflect these temperatures. As this pipe runs 4 feet from the wall to the stove It passes through 70 Deg. warm air. I figured this was a sure recipe for condensation so I wrapped the pipe with a black foam pipe insulation. 2 I did the insulation when I was installing the stove and was all dirty, sweaty and aggravated anyway. If I feel It was not needed all I have to do is cut 2 wire ties and It will fall off. 2 years running now and no problems and no condensation. Just my 2 cents.

Jim H
Plaistow N.H.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

So, Just wondering why it is not up to code to use a PVC OAK? It is not like it gets hot. Also the price would be a lot less.

The fact of the matter is if your stove was to loose its combustion air flow it is possible that the exhaust will exit through the combustion air intake which would make the OAK just a might hot for a time.

Do not assume that because something in normal operation is not hot that that condition will also be true when operating in a fault mode.

 

[Jim H.]

Thanks guys, where did you pick up your insulation that fits around the 2" OAK? Also, I need another couple of feet of the 2" flexible/rigid pipe to help hide it along the wall....any thoughts? Google did not help, and the local Lowe's only had 3" or 4", I know I saw 2" somewhere. I did a search on the Lowes and HD sites and nothing came up.....I also emailed the seller of the kit to see it they could help. Thanks.....

Jim H. Pa

 

[imacman]

Thanks guys, where did you pick up your insulation that fits around the 2" OAK?....

If I were going to insulate mine, I think I'd try this....no fiberglas to itch:

www.lowes.com/pd_332026-1410-CF42X_...RL;=/pl__0__s?Ntt=wrap+insulation&facetInfo;=

 

[New Hampshire Jim]

Jim H
I went to Home Depot and got a length of black poly 2 1/2 inch pipe insulation
I had to cut it a little to MAKE IT FIT
The glued end went up against the non glued end
As far as the metal pipe I went to the place that I bought the stove from and they had the pipe I needed by the foot
You may be able to find the pipe at an automotive store under heat risers I remember pre fuel injectors we used this between the exhaust manifold and the air cleaner.
Depends how Mickey Mouse you want the install.
I have a son that's an engineer and If its not right he would laugh at me
Jim H

 

[Jim H.]

WOW, I had no idea this was going to be a nightmare so far. Today I went to another Lowe's, Home Depot, Sears and even a place that sells pellet stoves and pools and spas etc. Nothing less then 3"! The place selling the spas and stoves asked me why not use pvc......I said because of the fire hazard! Well, their manufacturer recomends PVC!! Remind me not to buy from them! LOL

Waiting for an answer from the seller of the kit from Ebay......will keep you all informed. The good new is it is hooked up and works.....I just wanted to extend it down the wall and then across to the stove to help hide it.

Jim H.....PA