Urethane coating for new oak mantel?? (w/PICTURES) [edit/ -finished pics now shown, THANKS]

[brianosaur]

I just finished installing a new oak mantel with all the mouldings and trim on it.

I would like to coat it with a clear polyurethane coating for a natural wood finish.

I have a corner stove with the black pipe running up to the ceiling, and my "L" shaped mantel is about a foot behind it.

I do not wish the new oak to dry out and split from the heat so I was hoping for some suggestions on a good heat resistant clear urethane wood coating.

Thanks

.see pics in post below

 

[NFreiermuth]

Read your owners manual

It will tell you the recommended clearances from the stove and flue to combustibles
I have an insert, but I thought for single wall, black stove pipe, it's something around 24 inches of clearance. :gulp:

Your oak mantel could carbonize and begin to burn, not to mention the polyurethane.

I'm sure others will know the code for clearances. (ELK, calling Dr. ELK)

Welcome aboard, ask, read, learn ;-P

 

[elkimmeg]

There are no finishes that will reduce you clearances and none that are fire or heat resistant
you have two options either install double wall connector pipe 6" clearance or a connector pipe heat shield

Single wall pipe clearance is 18" not the 12" you current setup is

 

[brianosaur]

There are no finishes that will reduce you clearances and none that are fire or heat resistant
you have two options either install double wall connector pipe 6" clearance or a connector pipe heat shield

Single wall pipe clearance is 18" not the 12" you current setup is

The old painted pine mantel has been there since I moved in over 5 years and 20 cords ago; and who knows how long before that.

It never had a problem. Never charred. Never bubbled.

What is a "connector pipe" heat shield.

Anyway, what do you think about a deck stain that is sun heat resistant?

 

[babalu87]

The old painted pine mantel has been there since I moved in over 5 years and 20 cords ago; and who knows how long before that.

It never had a problem. Never charred. Never bubbled.

What is a "connector pipe heat shield". Would you know of a link so as I can see/buy one?

Words uttered by people standing outside of burning homes.

The Imperial UL/ULC listed Adjustable Stove Pipe Heat Shield
(broken link removed to http://www.imperialgroup.ca/catalog.cfm?navcategory=5&category=15)

A local stove shop will either order you one or have it in stock.

 

[brianosaur]

Words uttered by people standing outside of burning homes.

Again, w.a., over 5 years and 20 cords ago; and who knows how long before that. Never charred. Never bubbled.

Actually it was more like 15" away to be exact, but I guess it was 3" under the limit. The new mantel is a bit closer so a heat shield is a good idea.

I didnt understand what a "connector pipe" heat shield was as opposed to a "stove pipe heat shield". I guess he meant the same thing.

I ordered a pipe shield today just to be safe (see below) ...and to protect my new mantel

Back to my original post Q. - I guess I'll just stick with a regular laytex polyurethane, since the shield allows up to 6" min clearance

 

[Gooserider]

Yup, thats the right item, once you use that there shouldn't be any problems with any appropriate finish.

Looks like a really nice job on the new mantle, well worth the effort to protect it.

Gooserider

 

[elkimmeg]

Words uttered by people standing outside of burning homes.

Again, w.a., over 5 years and 20 cords ago; and who knows how long before that. Never charred. Never bubbled.

Actually it was more like 15" away to be exact, but I guess it was 3" under the limit. The new mantel is a bit closer so a heat shield is a good idea.

I didnt understand what a "connector pipe" heat shield was as opposed to a "stove pipe heat shield". I guess he meant the same thing.

I ordered a pipe shield today just to be safe (see below) ...and to protect my new mantel

Back to my original post Q. - I guess I'll just stick with a regular laytex polyurethane, since the shield allows up to 6" min clearance

you came here looking for advice and left with the correct answer and good solution
Now to answer you question

constant heat exposure changes the molecular structure of wood and reduces /lowers its flash point It may not happ for 10 years then when off guard and least expected the stove hets hotter than normal and it flashes. It might not happen in your life time or it could happen next week, its a process called pryolasis ( I know I miss spelled it)

I have been in the actual test labs and seen what is required Two towns away a 7 yearold home burnde to its foundation 7 years after it was built from a fireplace fire where combustiable wood was not where it should be When you install that heat shield look at it this way you just increased you safety margin good luck and welcome aboard hearth.com

 

[brianosaur]

you came here looking for advice and left with the correct answer and good solution

Yes I did, and Thanks To All. As I said, I ordered the heat shield that was reccommended. It should come next week. I dont want to take any chances.

constant heat exposure changes the molecular structure of wood and reduces /lowers its flash point It may not happ for 10 years then when off guard and least expected the stove hets hotter than normal and it flashes.

That is very interesting. So what you are saying that the ignition temperature for oak will actually lower over time?
Just out of curiosity, do you happen to know what the standard ignition temperature for oak is?

 

[begreen]

With the heat shield you'll have piece of mind. Glad that you asked. That's a nice stove and installation.

You should be able to use any good finish on it, though let it dry thoroughly. If you don't like the fumes from a poly finish, there are some good water-based ones that will also work. I'm not sure about the exact temp, but I believe most wood ignites at around 450 degrees.

 

[brianosaur]

I'm not sure about the exact temp, but I believe most wood ignites at around 450 degrees.

So the mantel would need to be reach about 450 degrees to ignite? Would that normally be possible at a distance of 12 inches?

After I read these posts I got nervous, so I put a thermometer on the new mantel right behind the pipe and fired the stove up to a full-on burn. It got to 114 degrees. ...I went to my PC and ordered the shield

I mean at a 450 degree level of heat radiation would I be able to be near the thing much less even be in the room?

At four feet away from the stove wouldn't it still be a few hundred degrees. I could roast a turkey on my couch!

That's a nice stove and installation. If you don't like the fumes from a poly finish, there are some good water-based ones that will also work.

Thanks, and waterbase is what I used since I know that shield will protect the mantel.

 

[begreen]

If you have a runaway fire or a chimney fire and that stack is pushing 1000+ degrees, the last thing you want to be worrying about is the mantel. Often times, it's not the mantel, but what is on the mantel that ignites. This could be candles, stockings hung (without care), pictures, etc. The shield will give you and your insurance company piece of mind.

 

[Gooserider]

Also bear in mind what Elk was saying earlier about the ignition temperature changing over time - the CTC is set based on that lower number (and I'm not sure just what it is, but suspect it might be down around 200-250*F) and ensuring that you never even get close to it. They want to be sure that you NEVER manage to set stuff on fire due to proximity.

IIRC the rule is the wall temp can't exceed 150% of the "normal ambient air temp" next to the stove. Since the air around the stove will get up to around 80*F or so, they don't want the nearest combustibles to get over about 120*F - Elk, if I'm mis-remembering what they told us up @ VC, let me know.

They are right to be cautious, and they have to work on the "peepul is shtupid" principle, but it does result in seemingly excessive numbers at times. (See the thread elsewhere about putting firewood near the stove to dry...)

Gooserider

 

[brianosaur]

Sorry that I am dragging up this thread again, but I wanted to display the final product -
a urethaned mantel WITH NEW HEAT SHIELD.

(I know this thread turned into one about the shield rather then the topic, so I wanted to show both)

 

[Gooserider]

Great Job! Looks nice, and appears safe as well!

Gooserider

 

[Hogwildz]

I ain't one for brick, even though thats what I'm stuck with for now. But that whole setup is one fine looking ensamble!
Nice mantle work, and the design in the floor man that is damn nice!!
Very nice And safe as others have pointed out.
Two thumbs up to you.

 

[begreen]

Really nice Brian. I love the rounded brick hearth. The whole setup looks great. Congrats!

 

[brianosaur]

I ain't one for brick, even though thats what I'm stuck with for now. But that whole setup is one fine looking ensamble!
Nice mantle work, and the design in the floor man that is damn nice!!
Very nice And safe as others have pointed out.
Two thumbs up to you.

Thank you.

The brick is what I am stuck with too.
It was there when I moved in with the old mantel.
The inlay wood boarder I installed with the wood floor
...I do that for a living.

 

[kevinmoelk]

Yeah, HW beat me to it, but the inlay is very, very nice. Great looking set up. Congratulations!

OT, Brianosaur, it would be nice if you would add your location.

-Kevin