What kind if gloves do you like?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

BikeMedic2709

New Member
Aug 31, 2006
200
North-Central Ohio
I was cutting and splitting wood yesterday & blew out another pair of gloves. I have been buying the Dickies professional line. They seem to wear very well. So far these seem to wear the best for me. Just curious if anybody has a specific pair they swear by.
 
I like the malimute brand elkskin. They fit very well, are soft, and last a long time. The problem is that there fitted, and are expensive. $35 or so a pair
http://www.jrcglove.com/439eb/
Whats nice if you notice there is a one piece palm and back, noting to blow out.
 
I like a fitted glove, and don't mind spending a little extra on them. Do ou get wood chips or sawdust down into them while cutting. That is one thing that drives me crazy. That is why I started to buy the Dickies. (The are like the mechanics type gloves.)
 
Well, not that i have noticed. But i usually split in long sleaves, and there tucked in. I think any glove that doesnt have a velcro wrist will do that. But i havent found a velcro wrist glove that holds up. I seroiusly LOVE those elkskin gloves, Im not shure the link i sent you is malamute brand, i googled it and thats what i came up with. They look just like them, we sell them at work, thats where i get them. They usually last me about 3 seasons.
 
Hi -
I really like my goat skinn gloves. I like my older fense pulling gloves as well....

However I find myself wearing and likeing these ROC GP150 gray seamless knit gloves more and more...

They are plain battleship gray. I use them installing sharp sheet metal, laying brick, spliting wood with the maul, doing mechanical work uner the hood, cleaning fish... No cuts, very few dropped items. They are not very high cost at $36/Doz. A roofer turned me on to them. He said he can get more than a week out of a pair, all others last only hours.

I'm 5'10" and like size 9 or 10.

Here's a link I found - I have no conection to this product -

http://www.magidglove.com/product.asp?dept_id=303&pf_id=1394

ATB,
Mike P
 
zzr7ky said:
...

Here's a link I found - I have no conection to this product -

http://www.magidglove.com/product.asp?dept_id=303&pf_id=1394

ATB,
Mike P

Poly Gloves?! Weird!? Where do you buy them? That link's broken. Are these the ones? http://tinyurl.com/z7tzv

I use the typical cheapo one size fits all blue and gray work gloves with the 3 inch railroad striped cuffs from Home Cheapo and I hate them. I wear out the finger pads way too quickly on every pair. I've been waiting for this thread to come up for a while now.

How much are those Husqvarna gloves? I can't seem to find any prices using google.

Are these similar to the goatskins mentioned? http://tinyurl.com/zbc9l
 
Gloves...i have a large hand, most large are too small.. It seems none last long have paid over 20 for deerskin drivers, and they do not last any longer than the 10 drivers, picked up a couple pairs of leather front cloth back drivers at labonville last week in the clearance bin for 2 bucks a pair...

In the winter, I wear mittens with the separate index finger( so you can run a saw or clean the sawdust out of your nose) , leather with wool liner for most outside work..they seem to last a lot longer than gloves.
 
Actually the link above is the "churchill malamute" glove like we sell at work. Churchill is the manufacture. Just noticed that.
 
Polyurethane?? Did I read that right!? I think I would sweat like mad in them. I've tried the goatskined, deerskined drivers and they wear out in the fingers really fast. Especially in the snow, when they get wet. I think it is always going to be in issue. I also think I may be a little too rough on them. I may stick with the Dickies. They seem to last the longest. I like the Husky's, though. Shoot... Maybe I'll splurge on the Huskys. At least they will match my saw!

Thanks everyone!
 
Vintage 181 said:
... or clean the sawdust out of your nose) ...

hahahaha. that's funny.

Anyway, since everyone seems to be ignoring me and I was passing ACE Hardware I picked up a pair of ACE Goat Skins for $10.99. I don't see them on the ACE web site, but they look like these, only they have goatskin instead of cowhide. Is one better than the other? If so, I'm sure I bought the inferior ones. Always happens. Just like turning the wrong way.

http://tinyurl.com/kz6ed
 
goat skin gloves are made from the large goat.... ohhh nevermind, this is a family forum.
Goat skin has more dexterity IMO because there thinner then leather. They do tend to wear out faster, but other then that there just fine. You should have picked up some malamutes when you were visiting :)
 
I like the white mule gloves from Wells Lamont. The heavy leather holds up great. Their about 11.00$ a pair
 
I was told that goatskin and deerskin are the better than cowhide due to the amount of fatty tissue in them or something like that. Many of the Motorcyclist racing suits boast that they are made from goatskin/deerskin. So I assume that it is a better material. At least I think so.....
 
I've been going to a place called Ocean State Job Lot - big discounter / dollar store in New England. They have a few different styles between $2 and $4, seem to last ok for splitting and cutting. Stacking is what kills the gloves for me. I do remember using the Wells Lamont railroad cuffed style in the sawmill, and as long as you got a shine on the fingers, they would last for months handling rough pine.
 
I use any tight form fitting , good feeling leather work gloves like the $18.-$25 type for chainsawing. When it comes to running the splitter or loading wood or stacking wood then i have the $3.-$5. sets of cheap suede gloves.........the wood is going to put holes in your gloves and you dont need the form fitting gloves to stack wood anyway. In the warmer weather i use the M-Pact II Glove by Mechanix Wear -gloves that are fingerless style. I bonk my knuckles more with tree felling and bucking than i do working on cars/trucks. The expensive gloves last a long time if you dont throw and stack wood with them.
 
I don't wear gloves when it's warm.

In the winter, I wear water-proof rubber gloves with cotton liners.
 
I like my gloves made from seal skin and lined with Bald Eagle down (nice and soft). If the seal skin ever gets stiff or dry, just rub them down with a little spotted owl oil.....OK,OK..... I will lay off the caffein now. %-P
 
Jags said:
I like my gloves made from seal skin and lined with Bald Eagle down (nice and soft). If the seal skin ever gets stiff or dry, just rub them down with a little spotted owl oil.....OK,OK..... I will lay off the caffein now. %-P

A buddy of mine actually has a pair of seal skin mittens made by the Inuit....he brought them skiing one time when it was around -10 plus before the wind..his hands were the only thing warm..He was definately getting some looks in the lodge!!
 
Eric Johnson said:
I don't wear gloves when it's warm.

In the winter, I wear water-proof rubber gloves with cotton liners.

Hmmm... I was starting to think I was the only bare hander here. I hate gloves in warm weather. And have the ugly hands to prove it.
 
BrotherBart said:
Eric Johnson said:
I don't wear gloves when it's warm.

In the winter, I wear water-proof rubber gloves with cotton liners.

Hmmm... I was starting to think I was the only bare hander here. I hate gloves in warm weather. And have the ugly hands to prove it.

Maybe we should have a post your hands thread.
Mine have been a mess lately with me mating for my buddy on his charterboat but the extra cash is nice

No gloves here either
 
Status
Not open for further replies.