Why does my saw sometimes cut crooked?

[albertj03]

I have a Husqvarna 450 with an 18" bar and I notice sometimes when I'm bucking larger logs my cut will start straight and for some reason it will end up crooked or slanted towards the end of the cut. I don't notice this is happening while I'm cutting but when I roll the log to finish the cut I'll see that it's slanted towards the bottom of the cut. Anyone know what would cause this? Maybe I need a larger saw for the larger trees. :lol:

 

[ohio woodburner]

could be your chain needs sharpened

 

[thewoodlands]

I'm going to guess it's a dull chain or the chain was sharpened wrong.



zap

 

[albertj03]

I have 3 chains that I rotate. I have them sharpened at the dealer where I bought the saw. In-between sharpening I use a dremel with a 3/16 stone which sharpens them up pretty good. All in all I try to keep the chains pretty sharp as I hate cutting with dull chains.

 

[egclassic]

My old saw did that also, until I replaced the bar. Must have gotten bent a little. Now it cuts straight as new.

 

[amateur cutter]

Check the top plate angles on the left & right cutters, & also raker height. Many grinders have slight variance from left to right. Also check cutter length from left & right. Any of these variations can cause the problem, if the chains are good, dress or replace your bar. Good luck & let us know. A C

 

[bpirger]

It's your chain....one side is cutting faster than the other (sharper) and it cuts on a radius this way. Resharpen the chain well and all will be fine.

 

[TreePointer]

When I first started sawing, I had this problem when filing by hand.

Solution:
1. Use file guide.
2. Use more strokes.

Reasoning:

The angles were more consistent between L anr R cutters with file guide.

More strokes removes more of the cutter to fix the angles. If you don't take off enough of the cutter, the desired angle may not be achieved on each cutter tooth.

 

[CTYank]

BTDT. My bet is that the bar rails are not level. One is higher than the other.
Pull the chain and put a precision square on the rails- you'll see if one's higher than the other.
This can easily be rectified with a bench grinder, using the grinder's adjustable rest to "aim" the bar at the center of the grinding wheel. When both rails show grinding marks, the rails are square to the bar. HTH.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I have a Husqvarna 450 with an 18" bar and I notice sometimes when I'm bucking larger logs my cut will start straight and for some reason it will end up crooked or slanted towards the end of the cut. I don't notice this is happening while I'm cutting but when I roll the log to finish the cut I'll see that it's slanted towards the bottom of the cut. Anyone know what would cause this? Maybe I need a larger saw for the larger trees. :lol:

It is one of the following:

1) Your chain is unevenly filed

2) Your rakers are unevenly filed

3) The rails on your bar are out of true

4) Your chain is too loose allowing it is cant a little one way or the other

 

[albertj03]

Thanks guys. I'll have to put the guide back on my dremel and see that helps first. Not sure why I took it off in the first place. Seems like the uneven filing could be to cause since it doesn't happen all the time. If being more consistent with filing doesn't stop it I'll try switching out the bar.

I have been wanting to get a bigger saw and I'm thinking about going Stihl this time. I like my 450 except for the fact that it likes to leak bar oil. Now I just need to convince the wife that I need a bigger saw.

 

[MasterMech]

+ 1 on the uneven bar rails. Especially if this is a minor issue you only notice sometimes. An unevenly sharpened chain will pull noticeably in one direction or the other, consistently throughout the cut.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I need a bigger saw.

Agreed

 

[KodiakII]

If you are using a dremel tool to sharpen your chain I would bet dollars to doughnuts that your chain is sharpened unevenly, and Isn't as sharp as I could get it with a proper size file! Your saw is doing what the old pro's refer to as "cuttin circles".

 

[TreePointer]

If you are using a dremel tool to sharpen your chain I would bet dollars to doughnuts that your chain is sharpened unevenly, and Isn't as sharp as I could get it with a proper size file! Your saw is doing what the old pro's refer to as "cuttin circles".

+1

Get your chains properly sharpened first.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Thanks guys. I'll have to put the guide back on my dremel and see that helps first. Not sure why I took it off in the first place. Seems like the uneven filing could be to cause since it doesn't happen all the time. If being more consistent with filing doesn't stop it I'll try switching out the bar.

I have been wanting to get a bigger saw and I'm thinking about going Stihl this time. I like my 450 except for the fact that it likes to leak bar oil. Now I just need to convince the wife that I need a bigger saw.

Albert, also you need to be turning that bar from time to time.

 

[Thistle]

Thanks guys. I'll have to put the guide back on my dremel and see that helps first. Not sure why I took it off in the first place. Seems like the uneven filing could be to cause since it doesn't happen all the time. If being more consistent with filing doesn't stop it I'll try switching out the bar.

I have been wanting to get a bigger saw and I'm thinking about going Stihl this time. I like my 450 except for the fact that it likes to leak bar oil. Now I just need to convince the wife that I need a bigger saw.

Albert, also you need to be turning that bar from time to time.

Yup I flip mine over every few weeks.Once a month give it a good cleaning,check for any wear or burrs,file them down & grease the sprocket too.

 

[pen]

Does the 450 run a 3/16 in chain? My 350 uses one. I thought the 450's were bigger but maybe not. Just want to make sure you have the right size wheel.

pen

 

[wendell]

3/16's? Don't you mean .325?

 

[pen]

The .325 calls for a 3/16 in file

pen

 

[wendell]

I've always seen 5/32's.

 

[Battenkiller]

5/32" file for 1/4 pitch and 3/8 lo-pro, 3/16" file for .325.

 

[Thistle]

5/32" file for 1/4 pitch and 3/8 lo-pro, 3/16" file for .325.

Yup. My wee Echo uses 5/32" file,everything else 7/32"

 

[Battenkiller]

5/32" file for 1/4 pitch and 3/8 lo-pro, 3/16" file for .325.

Yup. My wee Echo uses 5/32" file,everything else 7/32"

As it should be. All of my .325 saws have had the sprockets changed to run 3/8 lo-pro. It cuts as well as or better than .325, kicks less, and I can get super good deals on the stuff - less than $9/loop. Plus, I can see no purpose in having a 3-file inventory. At $15/dozen, they're expensive enough as it is.

 

[smokinj]

5/32" file for 1/4 pitch and 3/8 lo-pro, 3/16" file for .325.

Yup. My wee Echo uses 5/32" file,everything else 7/32"

As it should be. All of my .325 saws have had the sprockets changed to run 3/8 lo-pro. It cuts as well as or better than .325, kicks less, and I can get super good deals on the stuff - less than $9/loop. Plus, I can see no purpose in having a 3-file inventory. At $15/dozen, they're expensive enough as it is.

I have a few gross of them setting around.....(Hope MMAUL hasnt found the stash) :lol: