Wood Bees / Carpenter Bees

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lukem

Minister of Fire
Jan 12, 2010
3,668
Indiana
The wood bees (the big ones that look like a bumblebee) are slowly destroying my barn / wood shed. I was out there last night and noticed "bee dust" everywhere. Other than painting or sealing the barn is there anything I can do to deter them from reducing it to a fine powder? I've googled a little and everything sounds toxic or too cheesy to work.

Any ideas?
 
I have issue with them as well here. I have a pack-back sprayer load it up with insecticide (what ever on sale) I spray the deck foundation and up a couple foot . Any place I see them buzzing around. About every 4-5 weeks. Amazing how much saw dust they leave in just one day.
 
Another solution is a tennis racket. It can be fun too!
 
fire is very effective...but also somewhat destructive.
 
gzecc said:
Another solution is a tennis racket. It can be fun too!

You sure wouldn't have to worry about it going through the webbing! :lol:
 
Had them in Virginia (the big solid black ones). Incredible how they manage to bore perfectly round holes into the wood. They didn't seem to care whether the wood they chose was PT or not. I'd go out at night (when they were presumably up in the nests they were boring into my structure) and spray a bit of wasp/hornet killer right up into the holes. Seemed to do the trick. Come back later and fill/prime/paint or stain as desired. Rick

ETA: I affixed a short length (~10" or so) of small plastic tubing to the spray cans so I could accurately place the poison just where I wanted it.
 
gzecc said:
Another solution is a tennis racket. It can be fun too!

I'm more in the market for mass bee murder than individual treatment...but sounds like you have to kill the bastages one at a time.

Thanks guys.
 
I have considerable experience with these guys. I ignored them for a few years and they made Swiss cheese out of the cedar fascia boards on my house. Here's what I know and what I've found helps control them.

The males have a yellow face and act very aggressively towards anyone getting near their hole. However, its all show. They reportedly don't bite and despite at least 100 battles with them I've never been bitten. As someone else mentioned, a racquet works well on these guys. My personal favorite is the badminton racquet.

The females act less aggressively and seem primarily interested in their hole, or finding one. I've read they bite, but again, despite numerous encounters, I've never been bitten. I think the females do most of the wood destruction. You can hear them chewing and see sawdust exiting the hole when they're active. I've found that WD40 sprayed in the hole while they're there takes care of them quickly. In the fall I've stuff holes with steel wool and then seal the opening with caulk. I've also injected boric acid powder (Roach Proof(sp)) in the holes and that seems to kill them.

I've gotten rid of almost all of them using the methods above but plan to install carpenter bee traps to prevent new infestations. A quick search on Google for "carpenter bee traps" shows at least 10 venders out there.

Good hunting!
 
I had the big carpenter bees in my barn for several years and they were slowly destroying my barn. I tried the insecticide's and traps but nothing seamed to work. Talked to a old timer around here and he told me to try diesel fuel. You put the fuel in a hand spray pumper like soap comes in. Than spray the bees when they are in the air and flying into the barn. If you get the diesel on them it well kill them. Also, spray some in the holes they drill and it'll kill the bee in that hole. It stinks a little bit but no one notices it in the barn. I did this treatment for three or four days and now they are almost all gone. Works for me. David
 
When I had issues with them I bought a turkey baster and a container of boric acid. Boric acid is about as safe as you can get. Check out the MSDS for it. Ace hardware sells it under the name Roach Proofe in a yellow can.

When I found a hold I'd squirt the turkey baster full of boric acid into it and then seal the hole with caulk. If you just sealed the hole there is a chance the eggs in there will hatch and chew out some other place.

Matt
 
I stationed myself at the barn yesterday with a badminton racket. 6 confirmed kills.

I looked around and there are so many holes it would take forever to set poison and seal them up. It looks like there have been years and years of bee activity (I only moved there 18 months ago). It is really chewed up.

The entire barn is in need of some rehab, and doesn't work all that great as a woodshed...so I'm not going to put too much effort into filling bee holes. I think I'll eventually replace some of the wall posts, reinforce some areas, strip the metal siding, and make it more wood-sheddy. That's not high on the list right now.
 
I had a house like that. I found once I got the issue under control it wasn't hard to keep up with it. My guess is that generations keep coming back to the same building. Once you kill or severely reduce a generation there aren't as many to come back the next year, etc. Within 2 years I had the issue almost completely taken care of. The other benefit of filling the holes with caulk is you can find the new holes easier. They are the ones not filled with caulk... Otherwise, if you didn't happen to see the bees how would you know if you still had an issue?

Matt
 
EatenByLimestone said:
I had a house like that. I found once I got the issue under control it wasn't hard to keep up with it. My guess is that generations keep coming back to the same building. Once you kill or severely reduce a generation there aren't as many to come back the next year, etc. Within 2 years I had the issue almost completely taken care of. The other benefit of filling the holes with caulk is you can find the new holes easier. They are the ones not filled with caulk... Otherwise, if you didn't happen to see the bees how would you know if you still had an issue?

Matt

I know someone that takes that approach with road kill. Circle them with chalk on the way to work. The ones not circled on the way home- dems is fresh
 
Adios Pantalones said:
EatenByLimestone said:
I had a house like that. I found once I got the issue under control it wasn't hard to keep up with it. My guess is that generations keep coming back to the same building. Once you kill or severely reduce a generation there aren't as many to come back the next year, etc. Within 2 years I had the issue almost completely taken care of. The other benefit of filling the holes with caulk is you can find the new holes easier. They are the ones not filled with caulk... Otherwise, if you didn't happen to see the bees how would you know if you still had an issue?

Matt

I know someone that takes that approach with road kill. Circle them with chalk on the way to work. The ones not circled on the way home- dems is fresh

And what does he do with said roadkill? Nothing eats better than fresh 'possum!!
 
I have one farmer here says to paint the area with a garlic and water mix (or mix it in the paint). He swears by this.. also what i found most effective was a large can of brake cleaner i hit about 7 of these guys and bam they were dead before they hit the ground..... and the tennis racket works well i love the noise it makes and i also have a electric one that works wonders.....
 
I am glad I saw this thread :) We have a few carpenter bee holes in our house, and someone mentioned a carpenter bee trap. Googling it shows a water bottle, why are you gonna buy one when it looks easy enough to make? I mean already got the holes they like!

One question I have is does the carpenter trap attract the bees like the Japanese Beetle traps do? If so then they may be as counter productive as the Japanese beetle traps.

Boric acid is $3 a bottle in the drug store. Don't need to go to Ace Hardware, it's at CVS or any other drug store.
 
Hard to believe there isn't a bird that likes to snatch them out of the air and eat them.
 
Nope, mine are carpenter bees. Big hunking bees that are solid as rocks :) The wiki page for the mason bee shows a different animal altogether. But definitely thank you for the info. Not out to get rid of beneficial bugs, just don't want to learn how to replace a log in my log home's wall :)
 
Well, if they're carpenter bees, hang out some hammers and saws and tell them to get to work!
 
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The wood bees (the big ones that look like a bumblebee) are slowly destroying my barn / wood shed. I was out there last night and noticed "bee dust" everywhere. Other than painting or sealing the barn is there anything I can do to deter them from reducing it to a fine powder? I've googled a little and everything sounds toxic or too cheesy to work.

Any ideas?

Hi Lukem,

Appreciate this posting maybe too late but have you or anyone tried using natural non-toxic solutions like tea tree oil or orange oil spraying methods? I had a similar issue last year with an infestation of Carpenter bees in one of our outdoor shacks. I didn't want to use harsh chemicals to kill off such a beautiful bee, despite being a pest for us
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I did a bit of digging around the 'inter-web'
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and found me this little website that describes different methods (chemical & non-chemical) to get rid of the carpenter bee. Hope it helps
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Here's the site: http://www.howtogetridofcarpenterbees.com/
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Traps Traps and more Traps. Get them out there right now as this is when they start to swarm. Traps barely work after May.

Traps work.

For the ones you can reach by hand or ladder, spray WD40 in them or a pesticide.
 
Killed 3 today. They are hitting my cedar siding hard this year. The woodpeckers will be next going after the eggs the bees lay inside. My best weapon is swinging a flip-flop :)

Last time I had an outbreak like this I had to:

  1. wait until evening and they were in their holes
  2. seal up hole with a thick blob of exterior grade wood putty
  3. paint over the hole. Other bees would re-bore the hole if I didn't paint over it
 
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