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I am buying an old house that has 2 oil furnece's hooked up to a brick chimney, the chimney looks to be in good shape but I was wondering if i could take these furnesce's out and replace them with wood stoves hooked up to the existing chimney?
Is the chimney lined? Are there two separate flues in the chimney? The stoves should have there own flues and they should at least have a clay tile liner in them. An inspection from a chimney sweep might be the best place to start. Pics. always help.
webby 3650 brings up good points. Each wood stove needs it's own flue. But 2 furnaces do not = 2 wood stoves. The furnaces (or boilers) are connected to ductwork (or radiators) which distribute the heat throughout the house. Running 2 stoves in the basement is not the same and will most likely just end up with a hot basement.
Usually your insurance company will want a back up source of heat in case the wood goes out,so to keep an oil furnace is reccomended.
Also ,since you do have ducting...I'm assuming you could tie into the ducts with your wood furnace not stove.
Stoves typically heat a few rooms at best. A furnace will heat the entire home.
Go to www.yukon-eagle.com to see wood furnaces or wood/oil combination furnaces.
Just to clarify....are you talking wood stoves...or wood furnace? Two different critters.
How big is the house?? Insulations? With two furnaces I would be concerned with zone heating (I assume). Duel fuel and/or gassifiers would be on my list of choices.
HI idglid 96 :exclaim: Welcome to the forum! :coolsmile: Do you have the stoves wanting to utilize? Are you new to burning or experienced?An add-on wood burning furnace to suppliment your oil burner seems to be best, for a basement approach. If unfamiliar with this option check here for some info!
Yukon Eagle; Woodchuck; Fire chief; US Stove Company (ashley model, clayton model, they have an EPA Model actually manufactured by) "PSG" out of Canada; See whats being offered and used in your area, and spend the money to have someone look your system over and offer suggestions! I dont think I could get two 6" liners down my service chimney, and then would have to re-route my water heater and gas furnace flues. Maintaining two fires , for zone heating would require more handling and time than I would desire, or have! The cost of that extra liner could go towards the purchase of a add-on wood burning furnace.
OK, I have one chimney and I have yet to be able to look in it to see if it is lined or not, there is no basement, these are the type of furnace's that site out in the room. one is in the kitchen and the other in the living room, the chimney is between the 2. I am new to wood stoves and this type of heating. the house was built in 1934, I there is no insulation in the entire house so I plan to tear down all the sheet rock and rewire the house , install insulation, etc. I will also be installing base board heaters in each room. were the 2 oil burners are I would like to replace with at lest one wood stove, which will sit out in the room and heat that one room and make use of the existing chimney on the outside it seems to be in good shape, the oil burners are attached to the chimney buy an approx 6" pipe. and the house is about 1200 sqft. thanks to all who have replied and offered help.
Now were are moving ahead. You might be surprised how much you can heat (sq.ft.) with the right stove in the right location. You have two to choose from, so all the better. While you are busy tearing out walls, consider how you might be able to open the floor plan between the two locations for better air movement.Most everyone is going to be concerned that "safety first" issues such as clearance to combustibles, the proper sized exhaust, and manufacturer recommendations for installation are followed,,,not to mention your insurance carrier. I`m not sure what your heaters sit on now, however what ever stove you choose will have its own "hearth pad requirements" Lots of info in the pages here, so come up with a system so you can quick reference a thread for the future when you need to recall that info. It can get buried fairly quickly,and difficult to find later. Lots of good info by just visiting the "Sponsers Section " of the forum. I was fortunate enough to be sidelined with an injury, about the time I found this forum, so I had countless hours to get familiar with the forum and its tools. This time of year most dont,,so keep your questions coming and keep searching the pages as you find time, the answers will come. P.S. You may not need as many baseboard heaters as you are thinking. See if you can post a rough floor plan that others can look at.Is that 1200 ft. on one level?
the house is an old farm house typical of the area, the original structure is 2 stories with 4 rooms and a stare case. then they added an addition on the back that is the kitchen and bath. there is a 3.0 door right now between the kitchen and living-room which I plan to open up to at lest 8.0 the stare case is closed off kinda like a hallway which I plan to open up buy removing the walls depending on what is holding up the second floor at that point. there was no plumbing or heating system in the original structure and the oil was added later. since the house is not mine yet(we close at the end of the month) I can not take the piping down from the old oil burners to see anything inside he chimney. I am just hoping I can utilize the chimney for a good wood stove, are there any you recommend? the original structure is 14' X 40'
Ok,let me help you as best I can. Modern stoves have evolved to meet EPA standards and stay in the market. Many variations evolved, some require more attention than others to operate. First,,if its just you in the house and have full time employment, you`ll need one that offers long burns while you are gone. If you have a partner, then they truly will need to the type that will learn the stove also,,not just throw wood in and walk away. This could come into play when choosing a stove.You`ll have time to learn all the stoves and choices. Sounds like you have a lot on your table tear down, plumbing,electrical so-on. I couldnt get it all done for winter and would expect a not so warm house for at least one winter. All that insulation will help, however single pane windows will rob from its gain. You probably will need to figure on lining ther chimney,,,if the size or cross section of the chimney is too large for the stove, then your draft will be effected (stove will not put out the required heat it should) add to that unseasoned wood and a tempermental stove=cold winter ,angry wife! My house is like a rubic cube,,4 rooms up top, sitting over four below,hallway down the middle from front door to back door. I can walk a circle from one room to the next, crossing the hall way twice , ending up where I started. This allows my blower on the stove to get air moving in this circle.Yes I lose much up the stairs , but my gas seldom kicks on. Sounds like your stove will be sitting in a corner of your house, and not have this circle of air movement. If you have the camera and computer skills to post pictures,,these guy really like em. Draw a floor plan and take a picture.If you will have the walls torn down, get that seal plate area insulated good. lots of good info in the DIY,non-hearth section of the forum. Go to "Quick Navigation" at top of page and click on Main Informational Articles, there you will find a BTU calculation formula to roughly determine the size of your needed stove. Dont be shy of starting a new thread on specific questions, when the time comes. A used or cheap stove might be the way to go until you decide if you really want to do this thing. One year of burning may change your mind. You need wood split and stacked,,,like yesterday