Zombie Apocalypse Stove (FreeFLoe/Bullerjan Style) Gasketing Questions

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UrbanAngler

New Member
Jan 10, 2023
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Hello Hearth Room,

I have been fabricating 2 bullerjan style stoves for my shop. I need to put glass in the door and was wondering if anyone had any guidance on what I needed as far as gasketing and silicone. I plan on making a frame that will screw through the face of the door. The stove door seal between the metal ring parts fits very snugly. I don't barelt have any room in there for a gasket. DO I even need one. Please watch this short video. THnaks!

 
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Get your patent secured.....you is taking the stoneage to a new level.

With all your metal fab talent , add a secondary tertiary burn to it.
The problem is the tubes will sap so much heat off the firebox that there won't be high enough temps to maintain secondary combustion.
 
Hello Hearth Room,

I have been fabricating 2 bullerjan style stoves for my shop. I need to put glass in the door and was wondering if anyone had any guidance on what I needed as far as gasketing and silicone. I plan on making a frame that will screw through the face of the door. The stove door seal between the metal ring parts fits very snugly. I don't barelt have any room in there for a gasket. DO I even need one. Please watch this short video. THnaks!


It is absolutely fantastic work I didn't mean to sound like it wasn't in the other post
 
Nice work. I’m not a stove builder but if I was making one like that I’d just put a smaller ring inside the flange on the door and put a gasket in between there. I’d have to find a size that would fit properly to allow the door to shut evenly around the whole door. Too big and it will make the door seat at an angle. Too small and it won’t pass the “dollar bill test”. I might have to make offset hinge pins or a linked hinge to get it to seat evenly around the entire mating surface. I would definitely use a gasket though.

On another note. The newer Bullerjans have secondary combustion. If you go that route maybe look at the cutaway pics if it to get ideas. If I remember correctly they just used the same principle as most secondary stoves. Firebricks in it, ceramic baffle in the upper portion with the secondaries beneath. In other barrel type stoves I’ve seen that have secondaries they have routed the air intake pipe down the length of the barrel up the back a little then back toward the middle to supply the air to the rack of secondary pipes. This allows the secondary air to get hot enough to ignite once it exits.

The principle is pretty elementary. I’ve installed two different types on my USSC Hotblast furnace. The firs was just a pipe similar to what I described only I didn’t feed a series of secondary pipes at all. I just left the pipe open. This created a blow torch effect that shot against the side wall of the stove. I was worried about warping it. My solution was to fab up an adapter to mount a stainless gas grill burner flipped upside down. It worked beautifully. All I have to do is buy a new grill burner if I ever need a new one. So far it hasn’t shown any signs of deteriorating.

A3211C1A-BCB7-481D-A8EE-9820DF768A95.jpeg
 
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Hi. Thank you for all your responses and replies. It does have a secondary burner. This is fit to the curve in the tube wall after bending. The wall thickness of the tube is 1/8" and the steel curved flats are 1/4". I figure I can always add some type of liner if necessary. Its heavy duty. Here is a time lapse of it being welded in. I call it the afterburner.
 
The problem is the tubes will sap so much heat off the firebox that there won't be high enough temps to maintain secondary combustion.
I added these afterburner intake tubes to fuel that area. The 1/4" plate that creates the secondary chamber should hold a lot of heat. This all new to me so I appreciate your input.
 
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Some Amish stoves use a slot on the door or cover and fold flat gasket material and push into slot. The folded edge of the gasket material sticks out, making contact with flat surface. No cement is used, and can be replaced hot. They don’t wear out and work great.

Check out the Pyrex baking dish used on the Elm stove doors.
 
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Here are some pics of the door seal. It has an inner ring that presses tight against the door. Not much room for gasket material. I think for the glass I will plasma cut a metal frame to fit the shape and use some small screws to attach. The glass will have to get waterjet cut. Any recommendations on glass and gasket material? I can cut some type of gasket to fit.

110DD37D-260A-47AC-A55B-1DD3FB57582E.jpeg FA0E3C41-EB89-494D-AE8F-35E63066FC12.jpeg BD60D8B9-F3D5-4214-A1C4-B808BFC0AAE1.jpeg CEDC165E-8162-4371-BDC1-B03DA0EE05E7.jpeg
 
Nice work. I’m not a stove builder but if I was making one like that I’d just put a smaller ring inside the flange on the door and put a gasket in between there. I’d have to find a size that would fit properly to allow the door to shut evenly around the whole door. Too big and it will make the door seat at an angle. Too small and it won’t pass the “dollar bill test”. I might have to make offset hinge pins or a linked hinge to get it to seat evenly around the entire mating surface. I would definitely use a gasket though.

On another note. The newer Bullerjans have secondary combustion. If you go that route maybe look at the cutaway pics if it to get ideas. If I remember correctly they just used the same principle as most secondary stoves. Firebricks in it, ceramic baffle in the upper portion with the secondaries beneath. In other barrel type stoves I’ve seen that have secondaries they have routed the air intake pipe down the length of the barrel up the back a little then back toward the middle to supply the air to the rack of secondary pipes. This allows the secondary air to get hot enough to ignite once it exits.

The principle is pretty elementary. I’ve installed two different types on my USSC Hotblast furnace. The firs was just a pipe similar to what I described only I didn’t feed a series of secondary pipes at all. I just left the pipe open. This created a blow torch effect that shot against the side wall of the stove. I was worried about warping it. My solution was to fab up an adapter to mount a stainless gas grill burner flipped upside down. It worked beautifully. All I have to do is buy a new grill burner if I ever need a new one. So far it hasn’t shown any signs of deteriorating.

View attachment 307447
That’s a pretty cool solution. I’d like to see it in action. Thanks for your input. I posted some pics and videos of the secondary burner, I take tubes and the door seal with the inner ring as you suggested. Not much room for a gasket but the seal is pretty tight metal on metal.
 
Pyroceram, neoceram or robax would work for wood stoves. Pyrex won’t hold up. The Elm stove has an inner ceramic glass covered by an outer Pyrex pie plate.
 
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Pyrex is ceramic glass the same as stove glass it should hold up fine
 
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All I have ever read is not to use Pyrex. I recall the original composites of Pyrex do withstand stove use but the newer Pyrex is made of different stuff and won’t work. I don’t think I’d want to risk my house with it.
 
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Hi Everyone here. Thank you for your replies and support. I have the Zombie Apocalypse Stove installed and have started some small burns to cure the paint and furnace cement. Working great! Can't wait to fire her up!

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Wow nice work. Looks great. Stay warm.
 
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