Stihl MS290 Jug & Piston Replacement

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Mutineer

Burning Hunk
Dec 13, 2018
201
NE Ohio
Earlier thread detailed how the old MS290 was hard to start and wouldn't keep running. My local Amish Stihl dealer took a gander and said the piston is scored and thus is junk. My question is if anyone has any experience with third party jug/piston assemblies from any reputable suppliers that they can recommend.
In the meantime, I picked up a MS311, unfortunately that uses a 3/8* x .050 bar, not a .325 x .063 like I have on the MS290, thus the second question- can I take the clutch outer sprocket piece off the MS290 and use it on the MS311? Then I can get some immediate use out of the brand new chain and 18" Oregon bar on the inoperable MS290 until I do the repair. Thanks
 
IMO, stick with OEM........

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I've had a NWP big bore kit on my MS460 for about 10years now. Purchased it from Bailey's.
 
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Just saw an open box OEM cylinder and piston kit for the ms290 for $260. Not sure that's worth it to fix? If it's a low use saw maybe a gamble on a cheap aftermarket is worth a try?
 
Probably going the cheap(er) route, not the $25 one but something mid-grade. Saw an NWP like oilstinks mentioned above for $150 or so on Baileys site. The dilemma is that I just picked up this MS311 for $270 and that might be good enough, but I hate to abandon a longtime heavy duty performer like the MS290 that has served me well for 15 years or so. Plus it has a new coil, carb, bar and about 4 fairly new full chisel blades.
 
If you want another 15 years of basically trouble free get OEM if you divide the price by 15 years it comes out cheap.Also you will want to find out why the piston got scored by doing a vacuum and pressure test before you take it fully apart.
Or just wait and watch for another broke 029 to come up for sale and build one out of two
Does the 311 have a spur clutch or rim drive? and same question on the 029. As that would make it an easy swap. As i have not had a 311 yet just take off both clutches and compare if they are not rim drives.
 
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I'd put a Cross Performance or Meteor top end on that saw in a heartbeat...mid grade older saw like that not worth OEM in my opinion...and just FYI, if you want a nice lil bump in power, buy a MS390 top end (MS290 "big bore kit") the rest of the saw is the same, and you get a 9cc upgrade (65cc) out of it, but no weight penalty.
 
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You got a 311 for $270 (was it with bar and chain?)
if so the economics make buying used a better deal than time and money to rebuild. unless you can get everything needed to rebuild for $50 or less. You can always part out the ms290 but that's time and effort as well.

I'd focus on the 311 if it's a good runner.
 
Thanks for the input, I can always count on a bunch of good data coming through from you all. I haven't cut anything with the 311 yet, and it didn't come with a bar and chain but that was remedied with an Oregon 24" bar and a full chisel chain., I am ready to cut up a big red oak if it ever stops raining here in NE Ohio. As far as the rim vs spur clutch, that's a set of new terms for me so I'll have to investigate.
 
A spur drive clutch has the teeth that drive the chain as part of the clutch drum. When the teeth are wore out you have to replace the complete clutch drum.
A rim drive clutch has a replaceable gear that drives the chain, when it's wore out you can by a new gear for less than half of a spur drive,plus you can change the gear to any chain configuration like 325 3/8 or 404 without changing the clutch drum. Plus you can change the size of the gear most common is 8 pin,go down to a 7 pin if your saw is having issues cutting or go up to a 9 pin if you have more power than you need for the wood you are cutting.
All is done without having to remove or replace the clutch drum,just the gear. Unless it is an outboard clutch.
 
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plus you can change the gear to any chain configuration like 325 3/8 or 404 without changing the clutch drum.

Assuming the splines are the same size. ==c I went though that with an old 10-10S I am playing with. I wanted to convert it to a 0.325 9T sprocket from a 3/8 7T. I couldn't find a .325 9T in the small spline, only the large spline, so I had to buy a new clutch drum that had the larger spline.
 


 
Or this
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Still not sure about switching the drive sprocket swap but this may help understand what you have.

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