First full load in the 30

[BrowningBAR]

It's probably 90-ish% full.

I have the 30 and the Defiant full right now to see what I can expect in terms of burn cycles. It's windy and in the upper 30s right now. It's not winter cold, but this is the first dip like this we have gotten that will allow me to see what the burn cycles will be like when running both stoves.

I'm hoping for 10-12 hours before a reload.

I'm also heading out today to look for a magnet and a piece of sheet-metal to cover up the primary air on the Defiant.

 

[begreen]

Isn't the Defiant's air thermostatically regulated? Have you already done a really careful check for air leaks?

 

[BrowningBAR]

Isn't the Defiant's air thermostatically regulated?

In theory, yes. But I have found it does not work well. Unless I am missing something.

With the air shut down the temps have a tendency to go from 450 to 700 on a larger load. On smaller loads, this does not happen. It would happen occasionally with the chimney that the 30 is connected to, but it is happening more frequently on the taller chimney. I thought about limiting the primary air over the summer, but I wanted to see how it would act with the new, taller chimney.

Just to eliminate any questions about the stove; Gaskets are good throughout the stove. No air leaks in doors, griddle, or ash pan casting. All castings throughout the stove fit and seal properly. Stove collar gaskets were redone this fall.

 

[remkel]

Is it the primary air going in, or too much draft with the new chimney. Should you look at a damper instead?

 

[BrowningBAR]

Is it the primary air going in, or too much draft with the new chimney. Should you look at a damper instead?

I would like to avoid a damper as it is double wall pipe and I don't really want to mess with it. But, it has crossed my mind.

 

[remkel]

I would like to avoid a damper as it is double wall pipe and I don't really want to mess with it. But, it has crossed my mind.

Duly noted.

Seems to me if you add the magnet and sheet metal at the primary air you are just going to make more work/monitoring time for yourself. The beauty of the VC stoves is the self regulating primary air. Just set it and the stove takes care of the rest through the cycle. But, considering you are running 2-3 stoves at once, what would be a couple of extra checks on a primary air inlet?

 

[BrowningBAR]

• 10.5 hours of heat from the 30.
• Stove top was at 200-210.
• Sides were at 250-280.
• This was an E/W load.

I think I could probably get another hours or so out of it if I load the stove better.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Okay, this time I packed the 30 full. None of this 90% full. It is packed with an appropriate amount of space for the reburn tubes. The main difference is how I loaded the back of the stove. It's an E/W load.

It is in the upper 20s here with windchill putting it in the teens as we are getting that storm that is hitting the northeast. Felt it was a good night to test drive the fully operational stone deathstar. All three stoves are packed full to see how the house heats and how long of a burn I get.

If I sweat, I sweat. Am I wasting wood right now? Some. But this was my first chance at real winter conditions.

 

[corey21]

You should be toasty tonight that is for sure.

 

[Jags]

and the results for the 30???
Your first results sound very similar to my Quad - with the little extra sqft of the 30 I am interested in this test.

 

[BrowningBAR]

and the results for the 30???
Your first results sound very similar to my Quad - with the little extra sqft of the 30 I am interested in this test.

Inconclusive. I need to do it during the day so I can see how it burns. 10 hours later I had plenty of coals in all the stoves with all the stoves sitting at 250-350.

 

[Jags]

Inconclusive. I need to do it during the day so I can see how it burns. 10 hours later I had plenty of coals in all the stoves with all the stoves sitting at 250-350.

Sounds similar to mine. My problem is that one stove at 250 ain't gonna heat the home. On cold days I need to maintain the stove at 500+.

 

[bluedogz]

Okay, this time I packed the 30 full. None of this 90% full. It is packed with an appropriate amount of space for the reburn tubes. The main difference is how I loaded the back of the stove. It's an E/W load.

It is in the upper 20s here with windchill putting it in the teens as we are getting that storm that is hitting the northeast. Felt it was a good night to test drive the fully operational stone deathstar. All three stoves are packed full to see how the house heats and how long of a burn I get.

If I sweat, I sweat. Am I wasting wood right now? Some. But this was my first chance at real winter conditions.

You have me curious BBar... how and why would E/W make a difference in the 30 vs. N/S?

 

[BrowningBAR]

You have me curious BBar... how and why would E/W make a difference in the 30 vs. N/S?

It has been mentioned by other 30 owners (Bart, Pen, etc) that the 30 burns hotter and shorter N/S than it does E/W. So, far longer burn times, E/W seems preferable. I haven't noticed much of a difference in burn times, but I normally run small loads as the supply me with 5-7 hours of heat at a time and cut down on wood usuage.

I have only done full loads in E/W setup as I am going for burn time of maximum heat output. so I do not have anything to compare it to at this point. But I will run a full load N/S at some point as my splits will get larger as I progress through my wood stacks.

 

[rideau]

You don't need to mess with double wall pipe to put in a damper. They sell a small section of pipe with a damper already installed. You should be able to put it at the beginning of your adjustable pipe (that assumes you have an adjustable stovepipe length).

 

[corey21]

If you don't mind me asking.

What do your stoves stove top temps cruise at when in a 8 hour burn?

 

[BrowningBAR]

If you don't mind me asking.

What do your stoves stove top temps cruise at when in a 8 hour burn?

It depends.

As an example, this morning's burn that I started at around 9:30am was about a 40% full load, but it was messy. Just random splits, some small, some short and fat. It topped out at around 700. I stopped having any flame showing at about 1pm. At about 2pm I gave it more air and I am still living on the coals. Stove top is at 300-350. The room is at 76-78 degrees.

We are warming up starting Saturday so I won't be doing much full load testing for the next 10 days.

 

[corey21]

Thank you.

Looks to be warming up by then here as well.

 

[PapaDave]

BrowningBAR, that's the kind of info I've been looking for on the 30. Real world temps and times with load size.
Very helpful.

 

[BrowningBAR]

BrowningBAR, that's the kind of info I've been looking for on the 30. Real world temps and times with load size.
Very helpful.

Keep in mind, I am heating a much smaller area (though, very drafty) so, your mileage may vary.

 

[BrowningBAR]

It depends.

As an example, this morning's burn that I started at around 9:30am was about a 40% full load, but it was messy. Just random splits, some small, some short and fat. It topped out at around 700. I stopped having any flame showing at about 1pm. At about 2pm I gave it more air and I am still living on the coals. Stove top is at 300-350. The room is at 76-78 degrees.

We are warming up starting Saturday so I won't be doing much full load testing for the next 10 days.

I reloaded the stove at just pass 5pm. So, it was a little short of 8 hours of heat.

 

[PapaDave]

My house is only a bit over 1200 sq. ft., and we keep two rooms closed. Total heated area is only about 1100.
The house loses heat quicker than I'd like too (I know, insulate).
I'm looking at the 30 for better control and longer burns at somewhat steady output. This play by play is extremely helpful to me.

 

[BrowningBAR]

So, I halfheartedly put a n/s load in last night at 11pm. It was a bunch of smaller stuff and the stove took off and was burning hot. The stove was in no way full. I closed down the air in stages and went to bed at midnight.

At 8am I had the stove top at 250-300 with a big bed of chunky coals. Kind of surprising. I figured with a n/s load, small splits, and a less than full firebox, the stove would have been a lot cooler in the morning.

 

[El Finko]

BBar- what kind of wood are you burning? My 30 burns mostly seasoned red oak, loaded E/W and my stove-top (as measured by the magnetic gauge I picked up at Lowe's) reads a little cooler the next morning after less time.

What else besides wood type might lead to these differences? Draft? I have about 25' of 6" stainless and plenty good draft. Air? I have read somewhere else on here about partially blocking the primary holes but have not tried it.

BTW- how close to the burn tubes do you stack your wood? I get mine crammed pretty full, I must admit and there's little space in between. I think the manual says to keep the wood below the height of the fire bricks but that'd only leave room for a couple chunks...

 

[BrowningBAR]

BBar- what kind of wood are you burning? My 30 burns mostly seasoned red oak, loaded E/W and my stove-top (as measured by the magnetic gauge I picked up at Lowe's) reads a little cooler the next morning after less time.

Ash and Oak.

What else besides wood type might lead to these differences? Draft? I have about 25' of 6" stainless and plenty good draft. Air?

Seems possible that a stronger draft could cause this.

BTW- how close to the burn tubes do you stack your wood? I get mine crammed pretty full, I must admit and there's little space in between. I think the manual says to keep the wood below the height of the fire bricks but that'd only leave room for a couple chunks...

My wood is above the firebrick, but a couple of inches below the tubes.