Just got one , I always question accuracy on any measurement device, so any kind of calibration test ? I put probes in water reads 50%??? So far my wood is 11%-16% with the ash at the low end & oak at higher.
just wondering
just wondering
Yeah, I would be skeptical of those readings unless your wood has been seasoned for many years. I just split open a largish piece of oak that has been seasoning for 16 months and I got a 31% reading. Split another piece that was pretty thin to begin with and got 17% or 16%, cannot remember which it was.
Also, remember that you have to take the moisture reading from a fresh split (i.e., you need to split a piece and measure the moisture content on the inside). I apologize in advance if you already know this. It just seems as though those readings you took are super low.
As far as calibration is concerned, I have no idea how that is accomplished. Did they mention anything about it in the owner's manual? I have not read mine yet (i.e., just got the moisture meter last week). Just tried to google how to calibrate it and the first two hits sucked.
Even if the meter goes to 50%, it's going to be very inaccurate for anything over 30% or so. If you check 2 pieces of the same species and one reads 38% while the other reads 45%, all it really tells you is that the second piece is wetter than the first; the 38 and 45 are likely way off.
The meter is calibrated for a particular temperature and species -- usually fir at 70F (perfect for checking a 2x4 on a nice summer day). Taking readings off colder wood will make it read lower than it should. Some wood species have unusual electrical properties that can throw it off. Hopefully your meter's manual has tables of temperature and species corrections. If you're trying to measure the MC of a species not listed in the tables then you're kind of stuck unless you want to start weighing and oven drying samples to make your own correction tables.
The pins need to be inserted along/parallel to the grain, preferably in the same annual ring; not in the end of a split, and not perpendicular to the grain.
You also should push the prongs in firmly, not just poke the surface. They say to measure along one growth ring but I've not found that to make a lot of difference. Also, 11% is low because equilibrium (the driest wood can get outside) is around 13% in our area, and most of the country. I've found the General to give pretty useful readings on White Ash and Oak; When it says 16%, the wood burns well. I think the species adjustments only vary like 3%. So if you're getting 22% it might really be 19% and could still benefit from additional drying...Ok ,no i didn't know the fresh split thing
Thing is, these meters are calibrated to measure electrical resistance of wood, they'll be totally inaccurate taking reading in water, or human skin, or marshmallows, etc...I don't know how long it takes to get a 16 from red oak. It would be 4 or 5 years probably.
Something interesting. Put the moisture meter lightly on your arm and see what you get.
The body is mostly water.
It would be interesting for you to compare readings between the two if you're going to own them both. Please share your results.Thanks, instructions are not that detailed. Will try checking at different temps. I get what you saying about readings on or near the end of the scale as being not to accurate ,as touqre wrenches are the same way
Will pick up that $12 meter as second opinion .
All good stuff ,can now sort data better
Thanks all
It would be interesting for you to compare readings between the two if you're going to own them both. Please share your results.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.