new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat

[woodey]

View attachment 254096
I do not claim to be a cardboard engineer... its it safe? well it is held together with zip ties and duct tape so I would say yes!

Maybe some clear plastic taped to the window casing, and is there room for a small fan near the stovepipe to divert some heat towards your return?

 

[gary38532]

Maybe some clear plastic taped to the window casing and is there room for a small fan near the stovepipe to divert some heat to your return?

worth a shot... Ill do that too

 

[Woodman1]

I was thinking something like this that could crank out some serious btu's that could be used temporarily until he gets the house tightened up

 

[gary38532]

I was thinking something like this that could crank out some serious btu's that could be used temporarily until he gets the house tightened up

the stove isnt really the problem its the chimney pipe I would need... they want 2500 just to do that.

 

[SpaceBus]

the stove isnt really the problem its the chimney pipe I would need... they want 2500 just to do that.

Yeah, my 26' of class A chimney for my cooker was $2,400 shipped. This was all inclusive for every component for a through the wall setup with a tee.

 

[gary38532]

Yeah, my 26' of class A chimney for my cooker was $2,400 shipped. This was all inclusive for every component for a through the wall setup with a tee.

This would be like 5 or 10 ft Max I think they know the house is cold so why not make some money

 

[SpaceBus]

yeah I have my doubts.... the air on the floor of the basement was 66 this morning and thats what it was in the living room also... its not much warmer up high is what I am getting at.

I'm not trying to say anything about your character, but I find it hard to believe your concrete floor is the same temp as a timber ceiling. My slab is usually 10-15 df cooler than my ceiling on the first floor. The air space above your furnace should be much warmer than the floor.

Attached are photos of the floor 9' in front of my cook stove and the ceiling above it. The floor by my sliding patio doors is 50df. The front door (north side) is 45df.

 

[gary38532]

I'm not trying to say anything about your character, but I find it hard to believe your concrete floor is the same temp as a timber ceiling. My slab is usually 10-15 df cooler than my ceiling on the first floor. The air space above your furnace should be much warmer than the floor.

Attached are photos of the floor 9' in front of my cook stove and the ceiling above it. The floor by my sliding patio doors is 50df. The front door (north side) is 45df.

Your right.. The air temp in the living room up stairs was the same as the basement floor is what I'm saying

 

[SpaceBus]

Hell, most of my slab is 55-60df. We also removed the 2.5" thick foam that was around the slab due to ant infestations.

 

[gary38532]

I would have to check the air temp at the basement ceiling when I get back home

 

[gary38532]

Hell, most of my slab is 55-60df. We also removed the 2.5" thick foam that was around the slab due to ant infestations.

Idk maybe it's leaks so bad that all the cold being pulled down to the basement floor

 

[brenndatomu]

Still have the Avalon as a backup...if you get a chimney up for it...

 

[brenndatomu]

I think you'll notice a difference pulling air from the ceiling...just not sure how much...you'll know by Christmas, eh!?

 

[JRHAWK9]

I think you'll notice a difference pulling air from the ceiling...just not sure how much...you'll know by Christmas, eh!?

Just as long as that window doesn't leak. Otherwise he may be pulling in even cooler air.

 

[brenndatomu]

The boiler guys that use storage say it works better to let the water stratify...pulling air from the ceiling potentially let's the coldest air sit on the floor, instead of mixing it in...

 

[gary38532]

Still have the Avalon as a backup...if you get a chimney up for it...

True

 

[gary38532]

I think you'll notice a difference pulling air from the ceiling...just not sure how much...you'll know by Christmas, eh!?

Yes I guess I will

 

[gary38532]

Just as long as that window doesn't leak. Otherwise he may be pulling in even cooler air.

I bet... Nah I know that window leaks lol

 

[SpaceBus]

I bet... Nah I know that window leaks lol

Well there you go. The transom windows are probably half of your issue.

 

[gary38532]

Well there you go. The transom windows are probably half of your issue.

The windows are only single pane down there but I talked to Dale about that too. He said it doesn't matter the stove will still pull from the easiest path which would be the stair case. I really wish I had actual returns the previous owners didn't bother with them. I'm glad they didn't in a way... it probably wouldn't have been done right.

 

[SpaceBus]

The windows are only single pane down there but I talked to Dale about that too. He said it doesn't matter the stove will still pull from the easiest path which would be the stair case. I really wish I had actual returns the previous owners didn't bother with them. I'm glad they didn't in a way... it probably wouldn't have been done right.

Ha, I know what you mean about things done right. We've spent the last year rebuilding the house due to poor craftsmanship. Those windows are not letting cold air in, but letting the heat out. All the warm air around the ceiling is being convected outside.

 

[gary38532]

Ha, I know what you mean about things done right. We've spent the last year rebuilding the house due to poor craftsmanship. Those windows are not letting cold air in, but letting the heat out. All the warm air around the ceiling is being convected outside.

Oh I'm sure they don't help... I need to get them replaced

 

[gary38532]

Propane wall heater + full VF100... My hope is the warm air from the propane burner will go up and into the VF100. On a unrelated topic... I was also staining some window trim

 

[brenndatomu]

Most forced air systems are designed for register temps between 120-140. I just remember when I was looking at geothermal systems I was told expect register temps in the 85-90 degree range.

About the only thing a forced air wood furnace has in common with a fossil fuel furnace is the forced air part.
The fossil fueled unit has a given input and output, and can be dialed in accordingly...but on a wood furnace you are lucky to have the same input/output two minutes in a row.
My Kuuma runs about the lowest duct temps of anything I've run...but it will do it for a long time.
The last few days have been warmer here...40s day, 30ish at night...I've used 8 splits total the last 24 hours...that's two small loads...52-53 lbs of wood total.

 

[gary38532]

About the only thing a forced air wood furnace has in common with a fossil fuel furnace is the forced air part.
The fossil fueled unit has a given input and output, and can be dialed in accordingly...but on a wood furnace you are lucky to have the same input/output two minutes in a row.
My Kuuma runs about the lowest duct temps of anything I've run...but it will do it for a long time.
The last few days have been warmer here...40s day, 30ish at night...I've used 8 splits total the last 24 hours...that's two small loads...52-53 lbs of wood total.

The Kuuma holds a lot of wood either way. I use to put a full round wheelbarrow in my Clayton on one load. (it could have held more but I only used the front) The VF100 takes a level wheelbarrow to get it to full... In a way the VF100 has used more wood then the Clayton this year... it burned two cords so far (Nov-Dec) and never heated the house one day. That same amount of wood in the Clayton would have heated this house for a month. Not just heated I would like to add, warm like a summer day at the beach! If your house cant hold onto the heat the VF100 wastes wood too.