It's a 40cc Ryobi with an 18" bar. Starts and runs good, has a few cords under it's belt. Here's the issue. At first it runs and idles great but after a while of use the idle goes thru the roof and the switch won't even turn it off. If I put the switch in the off position then gun it, it will die. I do most cutting with the Echo but I like this thing for the big stuff which it handles pretty well. If It would stop acting goofy I might use it more. Any Ideas?? (besides making a lawn ornament out of it)
OK.... so I bought a cheap saw
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Does the switch move to the off position when at idle or does it act like its stuck until you gun the throttle and then it will move???
I had it apart the other day and cleaned everything. Only happens when the saw is hot. And this thing gets HOT. Even trimmed the throttle cable housing down a bit because of no more adjustment. I'm thinking this is just a poorly designed saw.
Trktrd said:
Its hard to say I was hoping it had never been cleaned before! Does it have carb adjustments? If not this would be a good one to try the sea foam on.
Trktrd said:
Just a gas additive and can cure a lot of little thing that could be causing issues.
Trktrd said:
Its worth it on these kinda saws with on adjustments. There just not much else you can do.
There is a piece of carbon glued to the top of the cylinder. It is dieseling. The carbon gets red hot and keep igniting the fuel after you shut it off.
My guess.
My guess.
Messed with it a little and decided too nasty out to be playing in the woods. So here I am by the fire, nice and toasty. Tightened up the screws that hold the carb on, maybe 1/8 turn each, don't know if it will help but oh well, ya get what you pay for. Seems we got alot of seafoam fans around here. Are you guys bs'n me or does this stuff really work?
Sounds like my recent used HD Makita - air leak from a loose spark plug caused overheating and dieseling. Unfortunately not all air leaks are so easy to find and fix.
+1 on the dieseling that BrotherBart suggested.If it's not carbon in the cylinder then the saw is running extremely lean due to a mis-adjusted carb or air leak somewhere. Since the saw tends to idle high, I'd go after an air leak. Double check spark plug, muffler screws, and carb studs first for tightness. If you can find any missing or damaged gaskets in the intake stack (I'm not sure what that particular saw has for boots, spacers, impulse lines, etc.) then you might have to pressure check the crankcase. You also might get lucky spraying small amounts of carb cleaner around the intake stack to check for air leaks. I'd do that only if the saw was cold, start it up and spray little puffs of carb cleaner at gasket joints, impulse lines, and any boots. If the saw revs up then you have a leak.
Trktrd said:
Seafoam is great stuff. I run it through everything. (cars, boat, mower, splitter, mower ) You get the idea.
Really cleans up the gunk.
Hi
I tried Seafome for the first time a couple of days ago.Had a small snowmachein with a 4 cycol that hadn't run in a couple of years.It took a while to get it running but as soon as it was running you could tell that it was getting better.After a few minuits it would idel and start easyly.Seemed like a good test for it.
Thomas
I tried Seafome for the first time a couple of days ago.Had a small snowmachein with a 4 cycol that hadn't run in a couple of years.It took a while to get it running but as soon as it was running you could tell that it was getting better.After a few minuits it would idel and start easyly.Seemed like a good test for it.
Thomas
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