Howdy folks....new guy lookin' for advice.
The Buck 27000 insert was installed in 1979. It's one of the earlier models, because the thermostat used to be located at the rear.
Over the years, I've replaced the motor a couple of times, most recently in the winter of 2009. Last year, I replaced the thermostat, with the new three puck style, mounted in the front.
Here's what she's doing.
When I build a fire, she works fine. Kicks on like it should, but if the fire gets hot enough that it should jump to high speed, then the motor quits altogether. If I let the fire die, as the temp comes down, it will kick back on and start blowing again, on what I think is medium speed.
My first thought was that there was a problem with the High speed thermostat puck, but here's where I get confused. When it knocks off, the manual switch will not work either. Shouldn't the manual switch override the thermostat all together?
Last night...just as a test, I built the fire, and flipped the switch to manual and let it run. Sure enough...when the fire got good and hot, the motor stopped. Flipping the switch back and forth at this point did nothing.
I've looked again at my wiring, after I downloaded the diagram, and I'm fairly certain I have it wired correctly. The only mistake I see with the installation, is that I might have it mounted just a little low. The instructions I downloaded last night says it should me mounted 2 1/2" down from the top of the stove, mine's probably 4" down. Must have missed that on the first install.
It's flat against the fire box, so I don't think that little bit of distance is causing the problem.
Do these motors have some kind of over heat protection built into them that would cause it to knock off?
Do you think the motor's going bad again?
I don't really know how to test it, even if I pull it back out, cause it's gotta be pretty hot for it to knock off.
I'm open for suggestions on what steps to take to figure this out.
I'm about ready to wire it to a 4 position manual rotary switch, and make it manual operation, but I really don't want to do that.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Sam
The Buck 27000 insert was installed in 1979. It's one of the earlier models, because the thermostat used to be located at the rear.
Over the years, I've replaced the motor a couple of times, most recently in the winter of 2009. Last year, I replaced the thermostat, with the new three puck style, mounted in the front.
Here's what she's doing.
When I build a fire, she works fine. Kicks on like it should, but if the fire gets hot enough that it should jump to high speed, then the motor quits altogether. If I let the fire die, as the temp comes down, it will kick back on and start blowing again, on what I think is medium speed.
My first thought was that there was a problem with the High speed thermostat puck, but here's where I get confused. When it knocks off, the manual switch will not work either. Shouldn't the manual switch override the thermostat all together?
Last night...just as a test, I built the fire, and flipped the switch to manual and let it run. Sure enough...when the fire got good and hot, the motor stopped. Flipping the switch back and forth at this point did nothing.
I've looked again at my wiring, after I downloaded the diagram, and I'm fairly certain I have it wired correctly. The only mistake I see with the installation, is that I might have it mounted just a little low. The instructions I downloaded last night says it should me mounted 2 1/2" down from the top of the stove, mine's probably 4" down. Must have missed that on the first install.
It's flat against the fire box, so I don't think that little bit of distance is causing the problem.
Do these motors have some kind of over heat protection built into them that would cause it to knock off?
Do you think the motor's going bad again?
I don't really know how to test it, even if I pull it back out, cause it's gotta be pretty hot for it to knock off.
I'm open for suggestions on what steps to take to figure this out.
I'm about ready to wire it to a 4 position manual rotary switch, and make it manual operation, but I really don't want to do that.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Sam