Sharpening chains
- Thread starter b33p3r
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JP11
Minister of Fire
I too was in the ranks of bad sharpeners.
I bought the timberline.. and I am happy with it. I am A BIT more confident filing with the Stihl guide now, but having the timberline to hold all the angles right to fix my ham handed efforts has made me more confident.
I know it wasn't cheap.. but neither is anything else.
JP
I bought the timberline.. and I am happy with it. I am A BIT more confident filing with the Stihl guide now, but having the timberline to hold all the angles right to fix my ham handed efforts has made me more confident.
I know it wasn't cheap.. but neither is anything else.
JP
estang said:
I just got it this AM , so I've only done one chain . It's a semi chisel that I've used and abused . The timberline has brought back the cutter angles and the cutter lengths are now all the same . So , for me it's a good alternative to buying a grinder,or taking it to a shop to be ground . I enjoy the quiet time down in the shop tinkering anyway ,so the timberline is great for me.
bogydave
Minister of Fire
MasterMech said:bogydave said:b33p3r said:
Thanks MM . Good to know.
I bet that means Oregon prices are a bit cheaper for the same chain.
Wonder which Husq chain is the the Oregon LGX or LPX , for the .325 -- .050, I'm guessing the H23
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/accessories/product-accessories/chains/
Why is it the box stores don't sell the chisel chains, (because they aren't "safety chain") ?
All are safety chains at the box stores here.
Dealers & saw shops seem to have a good selection of fast cutting chisel chains. (& many times at a cheaper price)
Stihl PN for RSC, .325 -- .050 is 3637
babzog
Member
b33p3r said:
Reminds me, I need to go get a chain machined tomorrow.
I too suck at hand sharpening. I can touch it up a "bit" for a few more tanks but then it's toast... pulling one way or the other. When I can't even cut a dirty old poplar, it's time to have the man fix it for me.
CK-1
Feeling the Heat
- Feb 10, 2006
- 259
I started hand filing my husq 445 and back-up poulan earlier this year. Long as I followed the correct angle, it did ok. If my chain goes dull during cutting, I would have to stop and hand file the chain again which takes time. I do carry backup chains but my method is to get the most out of a chain as I can and then replace it. I'm interested to know if anyone uses those 12v sharpeners that connects to a battery and clamps on the bar?.
Flatbedford
Minister of Fire
Estang- i bought a timber tough sharpener a week or so ago,took it to an old timer over the next ridge who sharpens chains for a hobby and WOW,did he put me thru a tutorial! i learned more in an hour and a half with him than you can imagine. first he tuned it up-dressed the wheel,adjusted all the settings for my chain and started sharpening. i couldn't believe how well this thing works. 5 chains later and i feel that i am very capable of doing a good job sharpening my chains-have a 1/2" slash in my thumb to vouch for its sharpening ability. the best hundred thirty bucks i have spent in ages.art
bubba3228
Member
artmos said:
I too bought the Timber Tough. Best tool for sharpening I have used yet. I bought a Granberg and it works ok but not as consistant as the Timber Tough. It is easier for me to change a spare chain in the field than running a file. She really throws the chips, and cuts like buttah.
Freeheat
Minister of Fire
bubba3228
Member
estang this is the timber tuff I bought for 109.00 @ Farm&Fleet;.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWNf8drL9Pg
I think you can find the same thing @ Northern Tool for 89.00 plus shipping
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWNf8drL9Pg
I think you can find the same thing @ Northern Tool for 89.00 plus shipping
M1sterM
Member
Kenster said:
If I'm in the field (e.g. working on a tailgate), I just reach over the power head to file the teeth for one direction, and then turn the saw around to work from the bartip end for the other side. I had assumed everyone did it that way, until I found a couple employees trying to file both directions from the same position. In my experience, if it feels like you're having to work hard to hold the file in the right plane/angle, then your not doing it right, and you're not going to get a sharp edge.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Flatbedford
Minister of Fire
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Heck once you get good enough to take the guide off its still the same stroke! (Its perfect)Flatbedford said:
Thistle
Minister of Fire
CK-1
Feeling the Heat
- Feb 10, 2006
- 259
Hmmmm.. I did remove the guide from my hand sharpener awhile back. Those smaller 12v sharpeners with the stones might do the trick.. Less expensive as well. When I go in the field solo, I saw and load. If I have to hand file, thats more effort on the body. Hell, let a machine do some of the work. A bench grinder will be the overall solution. Sharpen a couple of chains real good a day prior but in the field something to touch up the chain or better in a quick manner would be great as well..
mesuno
Member
BrotherBart said:
*Gives myself a very thorough head slapping*
Wish I'd thought of that one for myself - I've VERY right handed and always make a mess of filing the "wrong" side. Borrowed a mates saw once that wouldn't cut even close to straight because he was sharpening unevenly - and that was for my first lesson on making felling cuts! He took it back off me to finish up, turns out he is so used to wonky saws that he automatically corrects the cut.
Oregon will send a manual "Maintenance and Safety Manual" that will tell all you need to know about chain ect. more than one needs to know even. It's #51 on their list of manuals.
WWW.oregonchain.com or call (503) 653-4706 ask for #51 if you call or get on line menay more to chose from. Hope this helps some of you looking for info
W.C.White
WWW.oregonchain.com or call (503) 653-4706 ask for #51 if you call or get on line menay more to chose from. Hope this helps some of you looking for info
W.C.White
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