Jotul f3 cb installation help please.

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ozarkroozer

New Member
Oct 26, 2011
10
north arkansas
Hello everyone - I just got my hearth built and installing my Jotul f3. Please tell me I haven't screwed this up. I am rear venting the stove, so per the instructions I knocked out the rear vent plate ( a bit scarry) everything seemed to go fine and I figured there would be some jagged edges to clean up. Took a file and cleaned up the hole real nice to fit the stove pipe adapter that came with the stove. now the adapter fits just fine and I have pushed it all the way against the back of the stove but in a couple of spots around the adapter I see small amounts of space between the adapter and the stove. Now I am a total novice but to me this is a problem not being completely sealed? Have I filled off too much? not enough? does this matter? If too much is there a high temp sealer of some sort?
any advice would be appreciated - thanks
 
A picture of the stove and pipe would help. I don't see why you couldn't just use some stove cement to til the gaps.....
 
any recommendations on cement? do they make something that can withstand temps on the stove itself? I plan on taking pictures tomorrow when I go back out to the house. Thanks for the reply.
 
Any hardware store should have it......

rutland-cement.jpg
 
Yeah, I know what your talking about. My F3 does not have a nice cast collar like my F-100 did. Jotul dealers sell flat adhesive back gasket for the window glass of the F3 that may fit the bill. You can probably wrap it around the flue pipe and use a flat screwdriver and press it into the gaps where necessary to hold it in place. Cement may crack over time with expansion and contraction of the metal. I have not used the above cement. but if flexible, it may be ok.

I wish this stove had a nice cast flue collar.
 
Use a good furnace cement on the inside flange of the flue collar. Press it in with a damp finger until it starts to ooze on the outside. Cure per directions.
 
fishingpol said:
Yeah, I know what your talking about. My F3 does not have a nice cast collar like my F-100 did. Jotul dealers sell flat adhesive back gasket for the window glass of the F3 that may fit the bill. You can probably wrap it around the flue pipe and use a flat screwdriver and press it into the gaps where necessary to hold it in place. Cement may crack over time with expansion and contraction of the metal. I have not used the above cement. but if flexible, it may be ok.

I wish this stove had a nice cast flue collar.
Click to expand...


It would be nice to have something like that. It would seem the stove being as nice as it is Jotul would have a custom fitting for this application. You know I didnt think about the gasket material and now that I think about it I have an old raku kiln for pottery that uses high temp fiber blanket that might be used to push into the gaps. Thanks for the advice.
Now the next problem is after I fix this I'll be putting the two heat shields back on around this collar and trying to attach a double wall elbow to the collar thru the heat shields. any trick there? Luckily its been a warm winter in north arkansas.
 
I'll step out on the double wall attachment as I have single wall tee out the back of mine and not much experience with double. My collar out the back seems like it was cut at some point prior to my ownership of it. It sticks out about an inch past the double heat shields. I hope yours sticks out a little more to accept the double wall.

Welcome to the forums by the way. Stick around and get some pictures up. We love running our stove, simple and easy to use.
 
I would use furnace cement, not gasket. That steel collar with the F3 fits tight enough that you aren't going to be able to effectively stuff gasket material in there. Like BeGreen said, put a bead of furnace cement around it, cure it and you are good to go. And the cement is good for a couple of thousand degrees. Gasket is too to around 1400 before it softens and if not compresses it is gonna leak anyway.
 
hey guys thanks for the advice. and thanks for the welcome. being new to the game its great to have this forum with good people for advice. I'll post up pics when I'M DONE.
 
With wood stove connector pipe it is common to have small gaps at the seams as you are observing on your adaptor. (The system does not have to be air tight.) This is normal and not something to worry about. If your chimney supports sufficient draft, negative pressure will be created inside the pipe. This will cause a small amount of air to be pulled into the pipe at the gap instead of allowing smoke to escape. It is important to use good fire starting techniques that will create heat quickly to warm up the chimney and help to create stronger draft. Establishing and maintaining a good coal bed as soon as possible is also a key ingredient to successful wood burning. Use the cement if you want to for piece of mind.
 
Fire-in-the-stove said:
With wood stove connector pipe it is common to have small gaps at the seams as you are observing on your adaptor. (The system does not have to be air tight.) This is normal and not something to worry about. If your chimney supports sufficient draft, negative pressure will be created inside the pipe. This will cause a small amount of air to be pulled into the pipe at the gap instead of allowing smoke to escape. It is important to use good fire starting techniques that will create heat quickly to warm up the chimney and help to create stronger draft. Establishing and maintaining a good coal bed as soon as possible is also a key ingredient to successful wood burning. Use the cement if you want to for piece of mind.
Click to expand...

Wrong! All pipe connections should be sealed. Besides adversely affecting draft creosote collects at the points in the pipe where the cooler air leaks in.
 
How can you seal all pipe connections... I have dvl double wall and there is no way to seal the connections especially with the adjustable pipe. Also, how could you seal the connections in the chimney pipe with it being triple wall. I asked duravent about possible gaps in the dvl and there answer was similar to fire-in -the -stove.
 
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