Need stove help...Please!

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Jenn L

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Oct 14, 2012
14
Hello, I am new here and looking for some much needed advice. For the past 3 New England winters we have been heating almost the entire house exclusively with an old Huntsman box stove in the basement. Bonus room is essentially an addition and heated on it's own zone (hydro-air/oil). Home is new construction, very well insulated, blown-in Cellulose walls & ceilings. Basement sill has iconene around entire perimeter and exterior basement walls are lined with insulating panels. Overall square footage to be heated with stove is @3500

Discovered yesterday, when the chimney was cleaned and some replacement firebricks were going to installed that the stove is damaged and considered a complete failure. This was not an expense that we were anticipating but have no intention of heating with oil through the winter.

All that being said, we need something that won't completely break the bank, can burn 24/7 and accommodate log lengths between 22"-24". The Huntsman was a beast and we have all of our wood cut, split, seasoned and stacked.

I have looked online but there doesn't seem to be too many options. All of the wood stove shops near me are closed on Sunday and Monday so haven't physically looked.

Lastly, it does not have to be attractive as it will be in an unfinished basement and is purely for function.

Thanks,
Jenn
 
I'm a Jotul fan, F500 or F600 maybe...Both are workhorses with good looking features. May be a bit pricey for your situation though. Have you looked for used stoves? as an option, and what about your current stove is wrong that is no longer able to be used??
 
I have a Magnolia by us stove co. purchased at tractor supply , they're now about 900.dollars, worth every cent!
 

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Hey Minister, I will check out the Jotuls you mentioned.

As for the current stove the exterior walls are bending inward causing beaks in the weld joints. Don't believe it is repairable but even if it was I'd rather spend the money on a new one that meets today's standards and won't be an issue with insurance. This, btw was installed with a permit and was inspected by my insurance company before they issued the policy.
 
The magnolia is a good wood stove just need good seasoned wood as with all EPA wood stoves had mine for 2 or 3 years now.
 
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You are heating a very large area. Sounds like the Huntsman might have been driven too hard. Define "break the bank". What is a realistic budget? Have you considered a wood furnace?
 
I have a Magnolia by us stove co. purchased at tractor supply , they're now about 900.dollars, worth every cent!
Firebox size? Can't seem to fine it anywhere
 
Begreen, I do agree that the Huntsman was worked too hard. Our original intent was never to heat the whole house, we just wanted to supplement. Turns out with the stove running the heat in most of the house never kicked on. Hadn't considered a wood furnace but perhaps we should. As for breaking the bank, I would prefer to only do this once and not need to replace again in a couple of years so I would rather invest in quality.
Truck, I will have to check the firebox size.
 
Don't know how you get the heat from the basement up into the rest of the house, but if you are heating all 3500 feet you must have figured how to do it...

Have you considered the Woodstock PH? It provides a ton of heat, takes 22 inch wood, is very efficient, and Woodstock quality is legendary. Their stoves should last a lifetime. Sold only directly from manufacturer, with full 6 month no questions asked 100 % refund if dissatisfied for any reason.
Their website/blog gives lots of info about the PH, and as well there are several threads here that give good info.

I don't know whether anyone has a basement install of one....
 
Rideau, I will check out the Wooddtock stove you mention. We are not doing anything particular to direct the heat other than leave the basement door open. Burn and maintain all day, begin again in the morning. We do turn our heat on in the rest of the house it just doesn't kick on.
 
If you have forced hot air (ie: furnace and duct work) I would look into a wood furnace that gets hooked to your existing duct work. This would allow you to more efficiently heat the entire house.
 
Thanks Mike, we will need to explore that option. Are we talking an add-on since I have an existing furnace?
 
Imagine that... A steel stove can crack. Where is theonlyzarathu?

I can't believe I'm reading recommendations for pretty and very expensive Jotuls and Woodstocks for a budget basement install! Check out the Englander NC-30, at less than 1/4 the price, and equal or better horsepower.

That aside, I'd sure want to figure out what happened to the old stove to make it fail so soon. A new stove every third year can get expensive!
 
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Joyful, thanks for posting. Definitely don't need pretty unless we opt to do a fireplace install on the main level. Our configuration is a 4 flue center chimney (central heat, 2 Rumford fireplaces and basement wood stove). The larger if the fireplaces is used regularly for ambiance the smaller has only been used once. Too hot if they are both going.

Not sure if the fireplace install is realistic. Need to take hearth measurements and discuss it with Stove Shop. It would have to be in the smaller of the 2 fireplaces.

Yes I do want to keep this on a budget as it is an unexpected expense. I don't want to be doing this again in a few years.

Not 100% sure what went wrong with the current stove. It has been in the family for well over 30 years and been used in various homes. I believe there were a few factors and our most recent use was the final straw. The chimney sweep that looked at it for us mentioned that the welds were compromised and likely have been pulling in too much air along with likely burning too hot.
 
I always think if I had a big place to heat and the right connections I'd buy a Blaze King King. It is a big stove with remarkably long burn times. However, I think they are costly and require an eight inch flue (don't take my word for it - I haven't checked). Alternately you might consider a Englander NC30. It is fairly large, well-liked, good quality, and cheap.

I personally wouldn't consider the log length a critical item. I'd focus much more on the stove. I have a fair few splits that are too long and I don't find it to be a big problem to cut them down. Build a frame to hold the splits so you can cut a whole lot at one time and cut as you go is my suggestion. If mine are a little too long, then when they are cut in half they can be loaded north/south.
 
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A point to high light is a stove that can load north/south or east/west.

NC-30 can do this. If your doing a basement install the NC-30 by Englander is a good option.

Englander Customer Service is hard to beat.
 
Thanks all, really need to check out the Englander.

As for log size, I do agree that it shouldn't be the deciding factor but I believe we currently have at least 8 cord. No one is even remotely interested in trimming a couple of inches off this much wood
 
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I can't speak for all, but my wood furnace takes a 26"+ split. It's a non-EPA US Stove unit from TSC. It's okay, but if you decide to go the furnace route, I would highly recommend looking at EPA certified units like the PSG Caddy.
 
You can usually get an englander 30 for under a grand,i paid $650 eac and i have 2 purchased about a year apart. Also at TSC i like the country hearth EPA series. I have the smallest one which is $499 mid season,but they have the largest one(3500Sq.Ft) in stock now for $899. THe afterburn is automatic and works great even on weak draft. I can get my stove to 600 deg in a few minutes with just a couple small pieces of wood. Great fire show as well.
 
A point to high light is a stove that can load north/south or east/west.

NC-30 can do this. If your doing a basement install the NC-30 by Englander is a good option.

Englander Customer Service is hard to beat.

With the NC30 you are getting the best bang for your buck they seem like great brand.
 
I'm envious...two Rumfords. I'd think long and hard before putting a stove in one, because I am sure you'd have to ruin the smoke shelf to get a flue up it. If you can heat the home with the fireplacess, and don't loose a lot of heat up the unused Rumford, I'd try to preserve it.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Good luck.

I mentioned the Woodstocks because you indicated cost wasn't your primary concern, and that you wanted a stove to last a lifetime. They will....provided, of course, you are not in the habit of regularly overfiring your stoves. I'd really try to analyse what happened that made your stove essentially melt down. Do you just light a fire and leave thr room since you have a basement install? Any stove is going to require observation and adjustment for the first short while with every fire you light, until the stove is running at a safe, long burn rate. I'm sure youknow this.
 
Thanks so much all. Looks like I some some great options. For my purposes I will be exploring the Englander, wood furnaces and Woodstock. I am not opposed to Soapstone as I love the properties of the material (have it as counters and sink. I don't think the price of the Hybrid is out of the budget but if I can spend less since it is a basement install I do prefer to do so.

There is no denying that there was user error as this type of thing doesn't just happen. I am new to wood stoves but my husband has grown up with wood for heat. We definitely watch the fire and don't just light it and go, even have a rocking share stationed near by to enjoy the warmth. Husband works for home so can check on it throughout the day when necessary.

Adding a stove to one of the fireplaces Rideau would be a last resort as we prefer to maintain the integrity of both Rumfords.
 
You may have been burning it way to hot and that is why the steel failed. Your square footage is significant. Would suggest that for any stove you purchase that you get a thermosatat or 2 to keep track of the surface temp of the stove. IMfg. info will tell you max temp for the stove. Where it is in the basement, could have been an issue, could have been burning red hot and you may not have known. Even if your husband working from home - mine does (he gets on calls and forgets time) We have now added a kitchen time to go off in 1/2 hour after he has left the air wide open.
 
Can you tell us about the normal temps and burning procedures with the Huntman in the winter? What were the basement temps like in the stove area?

Have you considered heating from the first floor so that the stove does not need to be pushed so hard?

If you already have a ductwork system, then tapping into it with a wood furnace might work better. Take a look at the Caddy.

http://www.psg-distribution.com/products.aspx?CategoId=16
 
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