Wife is getting bummed out

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Sully said:
Has not called back yet........lol. Hopefully I can move up units. If not I'm going to have to make due with what I have. Looks wise and sbi customer service. Gets an a+. Me on the other hand, lack of knowledge and research......I don't want to see my report card lol
Click to expand...
If you are staying with Osburn (nothing wrong with that) go with the 2400 model.
 
mass_burner said:
I wouldn't advise that. You need to look for drafts, air leaks under your existing and seal them. Insulation does little without sealing the air leaks. Also, I like blown in added atop bats.
Click to expand...
Blown-in was super easy to do. Wife loaded the hopper and I manned the hose. Did not take long once it was set up.
 
Last edited:
Andy S. said:
Wouldn't it be best then to set your thermostat for whatever your other source is at your squeal point so it will kick in and ease the strain of recovering?
Click to expand...

If I know it's going to be a really cold night I set it to something like 65, but try my hardest to be sure it never kicks on. I'm comfortable with wearing a sweater while the house warms up, wife not as much, so it all depends who's the one home when the heat deficit needs to be made up. I know the cost is minimal to run the furnace, it's more for principle that I keep my finger off the on button.
 
BrowningBAR said:
If you are staying with Osburn (nothing wrong with that) go with the 2400 model.
Click to expand...

If I can that's what I'm going with. Osburn/sbi impressed me with their customer service. I'm big on that so I'd like to stay with them. Also 2400 uses all existing liner parts that I all ready have , if I read right
 
Leave it to the wife. Checked wifi thermostat. 70 degrees. It's 45 out right now. But she got it hot
 
BrowningBAR said:
I just insulated my attic three weeks ago. I went to essentially no insulation to R-30 in 25% of the attic and R48 - R60 in the rest of the attic (mostly R48). It's making a big difference so far.
Click to expand...

Good to hear BB. Hope that is making the 3 stove circus a bit less hectic.
 
begreen said:
Good to hear BB. Hope that is making the 3 stove circus a bit less hectic.
Click to expand...
Now I'm wandering around trying to figure out what else I can stuff with insulation...
 
BrowningBAR said:
I just insulated my attic three weeks ago. I went to essentially no insulation to R-30 in 25% of the attic and R48 - R60 in the rest of the attic (mostly R48). It's making a big difference so far.
Click to expand...
Can you please explain how and what you did? Any picks would be great....TyTy
 
Ram 1500 with an axe... said:
Can you please explain how and what you did? Any picks would be great....TyTy
Click to expand...
It was surprisingly simple.
  1. Emptied out the first section of the attic that we use as storage.
  2. Rearranged what little batts I had and pushed them together at the end of the house in the third section of the attic. This resulted in about 25% of the attic having R30 insulation.
  3. Covered up the top of closed off staircase that is now a bathroom pantry. Cold air from this staircase was really bad. It effected the second floor and the first floor. Sealing this up really helped.
  4. Blew in the insulation over the existing batts which gave me R60 afterwards and then blew in insulation throughout the rest of the two sections of the attic to about R49 (less in some areas)
  5. Built a simple sub-floor frame in the first section to hold two layers of 2" thick insulation board with OSB board covering it. This section was kind of half-assed as my skill level for something like this is non-existent, but it is only needed to hold storage so I am not that concerned bout the strength of the sub-flooring. With insulation board, OSB, and some insulation carpet padding, it brings that area up to about R30.
  6. Board off section two and three from section one with insualtion board to prevent cald air from coming into that section.
  7. Frame out a box with 2x4s and OSB board with 4" of insulation board to block off the attic staircase. This will prevent cold air from entering the master bedroom and kitchen.
The first section is not completed yet. The subflooring framework is complete, the boards are cut and in place, but the OSB board is not laid on topyet and the block off for the stair case is not done. When that is done I expect the Encore in the kitchen will be a lot more efficient at heating that area. As it is, I have seen a big difference in terms of heat retention and comfort.

Altogether it cost about $950 to do. 32 bags of blown-in insulation at $12 a bag. The hopper was a free rental with 20 bags purchased, the insulation board was about $350 and then about $200 in 2x4s and OSB board.

This fall I will probably blow in another 20 bags just to be sure everything in the second and third sections are up to R60 and that I didn't miss any spots.

The blower was easy to use. Would have been easier if it weren't for my house being its typical pain in the ass. Do to the design of the home, it required me to bring the hopper into the attic which meant me lifting the hopper up two flights of stairs. Super fun.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ram 1500 with an axe...
BrowningBAR said:
Now I'm wandering around trying to figure out what else I can stuff with insulation...
Click to expand...

You may just be able to do your house with one big stove ,once you get the place tightened up .Im heating 3 floors from the basement with one stove and i still have 4 walls left on the 2nd (Living)floor with Zero insulation. Hope to do those next spring.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
You may just be able to do your house with one big stove ,once you get the place tightened up .Im heating 3 floors from the basement with one stove and i still have 4 walls left on the 2nd (Living)floor with Zero insulation. Hope to do those next spring.
Click to expand...
Not with this layout. Even if this place ends up tighter than a ducks ass, I will always need at least two stoves. Which I'm okay with. So long as I am no longer chasing cold out of this place like I was.
 
BrowningBAR said:
It was surprisingly simple.
  1. Emptied out the first section of the attic that we use as storage.
  2. Rearranged what little batts I had and pushed them together at the end of the house in the third section of the attic. This resulted in about 25% of the attic having R30 insulation.
  3. Covered up the top of closed off staircase that is now a bathroom pantry. Cold air from this staircase was really bad. It effected the second floor and the first floor. Sealing this up really helped.
  4. Blew in the insulation over the existing batts which gave me R60 afterwards and then blew in insulation throughout the rest of the two sections of the attic to about R49 (less in some areas)
  5. Built a simple sub-floor frame in the first section to hold two layers of 2" thick insulation board with OSB board covering it. This section was kind of half-assed as my skill level for something like this is non-existent, but it is only needed to hold storage so I am not that concerned bout the strength of the sub-flooring. With insulation board, OSB, and some insulation carpet padding, it brings that area up to about R30.
  6. Board off section two and three from section one with insualtion board to prevent cald air from coming into that section.
  7. Frame out a box with 2x4s and OSB board with 4" of insulation board to block off the attic staircase. This will prevent cold air from entering the master bedroom and kitchen.
The first section is not completed yet. The subflooring framework is complete, the boards are cut and in place, but the OSB board is not laid on topyet and the block off for the stair case is not done. When that is done I expect the Encore in the kitchen will be a lot more efficient at heating that area. As it is, I have seen a big difference in terms of heat retention and comfort.

Altogether it cost about $950 to do. 32 bags of blown-in insulation at $12 a bag. The hopper was a free rental with 20 bags purchased, the insulation board was about $350 and then about $200 in 2x4s and OSB board.

This fall I will probably blow in another 20 bags just to be sure everything in the second and third sections are up to R60 and that I didn't miss any spots.

The blower was easy to use. Would have been easier if it weren't for my house being its typical pain in the ass. Do to the design of the home, it required me to bring the hopper into the attic which meant me lifting the hopper up two flights of stairs. Super fun.
Click to expand...
Awesome thank you so much or all your info......
 
BrowningBAR said:
Not with this layout. Even if this place ends up tighter than a ducks ass, I will always need at least two stoves. Which I'm okay with. So long as I am no longer chasing cold out of this place like I was.
Click to expand...
Lots of old homes in doylestown,nice place though. Put me in mind of new england towns.
 
Tuff situation. Here's my list view.

1. Stove is undersized like others have said.
2. Closed floor plan.
3. See 1 & 2.

Your situation is a done deal for now. This can change after the sticker shock has worn off. Let's talk small floor fans to move the heat as you learn the insert. The suggested technique is to point and blow "on low" a small floor fan towards the stove room. This act I believe is called thermal displacement, and will help you to heat those "cold rooms" should you have the correct air flow.
 
BrowningBAR said:
It was surprisingly simple.
  1. Emptied out the first section of the attic that we use as storage.
  2. Rearranged what little batts I had and pushed them together at the end of the house in the third section of the attic. This resulted in about 25% of the attic having R30 insulation.
  3. Covered up the top of closed off staircase that is now a bathroom pantry. Cold air from this staircase was really bad. It effected the second floor and the first floor. Sealing this up really helped.
  4. Blew in the insulation over the existing batts which gave me R60 afterwards and then blew in insulation throughout the rest of the two sections of the attic to about R49 (less in some areas)
  5. Built a simple sub-floor frame in the first section to hold two layers of 2" thick insulation board with OSB board covering it. This section was kind of half-assed as my skill level for something like this is non-existent, but it is only needed to hold storage so I am not that concerned bout the strength of the sub-flooring. With insulation board, OSB, and some insulation carpet padding, it brings that area up to about R30.
  6. Board off section two and three from section one with insualtion board to prevent cald air from coming into that section.
  7. Frame out a box with 2x4s and OSB board with 4" of insulation board to block off the attic staircase. This will prevent cold air from entering the master bedroom and kitchen.
The first section is not completed yet. The subflooring framework is complete, the boards are cut and in place, but the OSB board is not laid on topyet and the block off for the stair case is not done. When that is done I expect the Encore in the kitchen will be a lot more efficient at heating that area. As it is, I have seen a big difference in terms of heat retention and comfort.

Altogether it cost about $950 to do. 32 bags of blown-in insulation at $12 a bag. The hopper was a free rental with 20 bags purchased, the insulation board was about $350 and then about $200 in 2x4s and OSB board.

This fall I will probably blow in another 20 bags just to be sure everything in the second and third sections are up to R60 and that I didn't miss any spots.

The blower was easy to use. Would have been easier if it weren't for my house being its typical pain in the ass. Do to the design of the home, it required me to bring the hopper into the attic which meant me lifting the hopper up two flights of stairs. Super fun.
Click to expand...

What kind of ventilation do you have in your attic? Usually you need baffles for your soffit vents and close those openings before blowing in the insulation. Would hate that you get suddenly a mold problem because you have all that insulation in your soffits now.
 
Grisu said:
What kind of ventilation do you have in your attic? Usually you need baffles for your soffit vents and close those openings before blowing in the insulation. Would hate that you get suddenly a mold problem because you have all that insulation in your soffits now.
Click to expand...
No soffit vents in that area of the house. The only area I have soffit vents is in the remodeled den/summer kitchen which is a separate roof system and not connected to the main roof.
 
Surprised you're having trouble getting your house warmed up......my 2200 is in the living room of my 1973 split-level (1900 sq ft.) Except on the most frigid days, the living room and adjoining kitchen will be nearing 80 degrees with out trying hard. The rest of the lower level will be 70-72. Now, my house isn't particularly well insulated, and the windows are probably approaching 20 years old. My upstairs does not get much if any heat from the stove. Luckily, I have a 3 zone water heat, so I just use the boiler (natural gas) to keep the upstairs warm.

Your picture shows what looks like a pretty good burn. While the 2200 might be a bit undersized for the sq-footage you are trying to heat, I seriously wonder if your wood is up to snuff and/or you have a horrific draft/lack of insulation problem somewhere......sorry you're having issues.
 
begreen said:
The stove does sound undersized, but it should be able to heat at these outdoor temps, albeit with more frequent feeding. Are you packing the firebox full of wood on each reload?

I'm wondering how much of this problem is a leaky house? It would help to know the btus required to heat the place. Before putting in the insert, what was the source of heat? What was the average fuel consumption in Dec. or Jan.?
Click to expand...
I Think his problem is with the wood or the stove is not functioning correctly BG. Did you ever hear of a stove however small that would not even heat the room that its in? NO way is this because of a drafty uninsulated house.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
I Think his problem is with the wood or the stove is not functioning correctly BG. Did you ever hear of a stove however small that would not even heat the room that its in? NO way is this because of a drafty uninsulated house.
Click to expand...
Yes. I have. The Intrepid I used in my kitchen wouldn't even get the room up to temp. The Heritage would struggle to get the room above 67 when it was very cold and windy.

A 2.2 cu ft stove in a 2,600 sq ft home is going to struggle to heat the house. If it is leaky it will absolutely perform just as bad as the OP is encountering.

I'm not saying it isn't a wood issue (not saying it is, either), but based on the inside temps of the home, compared to the outside temps, it seems like their is an insulation/draft issue in the home.
 
To the OP.....I don't think anyone else asked....

this is a new liner/install? Inside chimney or outside (exterior wall)? If the top plate on the top of the chimney is not well sealed, or if it is and the installer skipped the block off plate (at the bottom) that will eat a big chunk of your insert BTUs. Can you pull the surround and take a look, or did you watch the install.

PS: BB: Nice job on the attic! The 'random batts' were prob left like that by the last workman to be up there. e.g. roofers (they don't pay the bills, or take the time to put them back). Airsealed first?
 
Last edited:
Seasoned Oak said:
I Think his problem is with the wood or the stove is not functioning correctly BG. Did you ever hear of a stove however small that would not even heat the room that its in? NO way is this because of a drafty uninsulated house.
Click to expand...
It gets the room it is in warm. Hot even. What I was saying was I could get that room hot with a ten dollar space heater from wall mart. Lol. Last night it did good. Was only 45 out but downstairs was 71. Put wood on later. Moved fans and packed stove.

Installer is going to put damper on. It's a 30 ft chimney. As far as insulation (roxul) I don't know. Block off plate I was told was going in. Top and bottom. I was not home for install. Wife was and she knows pretty much nothing about it.

Dealer was actually upset that I questioned his recommendation. He said he would never and has never installed a insert that he did not think could meet the needs of a home.

He said in the end he will make sure I have what I intended to have.

Confused on draft. To much, to less , gets stronger in cold. What's the ideal draft and how does it change the fire
 
I'm confused. Installer wants to give you a damper, and says too much draft? How're you going to adjust that on an insert? Where'll it go?

Is this a 30 ft exterior or interior chimney?

Too much air or too little results in inefficient burn. In an EPA stove, there is a minimum amount of air opening you can't shut off...I guess the dealer is thinking with a 30 ft stack that that is too much, pulling eff down. Hmmmm.
 
woodgeek said:
To the OP.....I don't think anyone else asked....

this is a new liner/install? Inside chimney or outside (exterior wall)? If the top plate on the top of the chimney is not well sealed, or if it is and the installer skipped the block off plate (at the bottom) that will eat a big chunk of your insert BTUs. Can you pull the surround and take a look, or did you watch the install.

PS: BB: Nice job on the attic! The 'random batts' were prob left that by the last worker to be up there. e.g. roofers (they don't pay the bills, or take the time to put them back). Airsealed first?
Click to expand...
It is new, exterior brick chimney with liner. I was told the plate was in. I never looked , blows that I pay for an installation and have to take apart to check if some correctly !
 
  • Like
Reactions: woodgeek
woodgeek said:
I'm confused. Installer wants to give you a damper, and says too much draft? How're you going to adjust that on an insert? Where'll it go?

Is this a 30 ft exterior or interior chimney?

Too much air or too little results in inefficient burn. In an EPA stove, there is a minimum amount of air opening you can't shut off...I guess the dealer is thinking with a 30 ft stack that that is too much, pulling eff down. Hmmmm.
Click to expand...

I do not know how I would adjust it. I was wondering the same thing.
He wants to make good on this and he has more knowledge than me. Clearly.
What does to much draft do? Or to little.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
  • Locked
Maintaining even temperature throughout the day
Replies
24
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
F
Looking to upgrade from current woodstove Drolet Sahara
Replies
12
Views
486
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Trevor Tahclep
Trevor Tahclep
E
House will get "too hot" with a wood stove?
Replies
12
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
U
Wood Stove Sizing
Replies
52
Views
2K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
stovelark
stovelark
A
Help on selecting approved stove and or insert to upgrade fireplace
Replies
20
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
Top Bottom
Back