how hot does the top of an insulated wood stove get

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
H

harmon

Member
Dec 22, 2013
25
missouri and oklahoma border
I am buying a house that needs much work (electrical, plumbing, etc) and going to buy this Englander
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-2-200-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-30-NCH/100291302#

before I start fixing anything else in the house (theres already a pipe running through the ceiling) I'm going to install the Stove and was wondering how hot these new stoves with internal fire bricks get on top. It will just be me working (and maybe a brother sometimes) and I will be living primitive for a good part if not the whole winter. Do the insulated stoves get hot enough to cook off (frying pan hot?)
 
Last edited:
It'll get to 600F or more. Hot enough to sizzle your sausage. Install safely and treat it with respect for clearances and hearth requirements.
 
  • Like
Reactions: privatejoker75
It will got HOT if you want it to, 750+, 900 if you're not careful.
 
Welcome to the forum harmon.

Insulated? Well, one would not want to insulate as then it would be difficult to get heat out of it. That englander can and will get hot. You don't want it getting red as that is way too hot but 700 - 750 would be no problem at all.
 
My best friend has one. We were told that it is normal to operate it between 400 - 600 degrees. 650 - 700 is not a problem though.... You just probably don't want to keep it at those temps on a regular basis.
 
I have that stove and it has a stove top thermometer. I have no problem getting the stove top to 700 and my normal operating range is 600-650. The stove top is not insulated of course, what you are seeing laying on top of the perforated burn tubes is a cermamic fiber baffle which acts to force the smoke back towards the loading door before running up under the bottom of the stove top in an S-curve fashion. Fire does indeed touch the bottom of the top plate before leaving the stove.

These stoves get just as hot as any stove you've ever operated before.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fox9988
These stoves work great but you must have good dry wood less than 20% moisture.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Savage I misspoke. I read there were tiles in these new stoves. thats what I meant by insulation. Or maybe they are baffles as highbeam noted above. I need to find a basic description on this site of how these stoves work, and all the parts like dampers etc
 
  • Like
Reactions: fox9988
750 won't cause the 30 to blink. They are a workhorse. They like dry wood though. If you don't have quality wood, you will be frustrated. You might want to look at Kero or propane if you don't have the wood put up already.
 
I have cooked many a time on my 30 when the notoriously undependable Baltimore Electric goes out.

Think camping- buy a cast-iron pan- they're cheap- and go for it. I recommend a trivet OR a spare firebrick for heat control.
 
Read the owner's/installation manual thoroughly and make sure you understand the requirements for clearances from combustible materials all around (including floor protection) and the required insulative property of the hearth beneath the stove. These things are absolutely critical to safe operation. Great stove. Rick
 
  • Like
Reactions: gyrfalcon
bluedogz said:
I have cooked many a time on my 30 when the notoriously undependable Baltimore Electric goes out.

Think camping- buy a cast-iron pan- they're cheap- and go for it. I recommend a trivet OR a spare firebrick for heat control.
Click to expand...

thanks. I looked u trivet and firebrick, and found these trivets, http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-L8DOT3-...r_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1388011514&sr=1-1 and http://www.amazon.com/Ilsa-7-Inch-C...r_1_4?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1388011514&sr=1-4

0ne goes inside the dutch oven the other under it or pan or whatever. good idea
 
Last edited:
harmon said:
thanks. I looked u trivet and firebrick, and found these trivets, http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-L8DOT3-...r_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1388011514&sr=1-1 and http://www.amazon.com/Ilsa-7-Inch-C...r_1_4?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1388011514&sr=1-4

Have you used both holy and solid types? I wonder if the solid one is hotter. anyway good idea
Click to expand...

I haven't actually used either... when my saucepan started to get too hot, I just put it on top of one firebrick. When it continued to get too hot, i added another brick. Presto.
 
You say there's already a "pipe" running up through the ceiling. Just exactly what that "pipe" is...what it's made of, what size it is, how it's installed, and where it goes after "running up through the ceiling...is very crucial information before installing this appliance. What you have may be perfectly suitable for this application...or not. This is vitally important safety-related stuff.

Before you get all wrapped up in how you're going to cook on it, you really need to get all wrapped up in how you're going to install it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Snotrocket and gyrfalcon
fossil said:
You say there's already a "pipe" running up through the ceiling. Just exactly what that "pipe" is...what it's made of, what size it is, how it's installed, and where it goes after "running up through the ceiling...is very crucial information before installing this appliance. What you have may be perfectly suitable for this application...or not. This is vitally important safety-related stuff.

Before you get all wrapped up in how you're going to cook on it, you really need to get all wrapped up in how you're going to install it.
Click to expand...

Unless I couldnt cook on it, then I would look at one I could, hence the reason for my post. I'm going out to look at the lace later this week I will follow the pipe up through the rafters and get on the roof to check it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Have no doubt that you can cook on a properly installed NC30.
 
harmon said:
Unless I couldnt cook on it, then I would look at one I could, hence the reason for my post. I'm going out to look at the lace later this week I will follow the pipe up through the rafters and get on the roof to check it.
Click to expand...

If this place is still in the "should I buy it" phase, maybe getting a certified sweep to inspect the setup would be worth the $. The primitive cooking side of things is a go... but Fossil is right. That "pipe" might be just the thing, or a disaster waiting to happen.
 
That's a firebrick, but you can get them at your local concrete yard for $2.50 each.
 
  • Like
Reactions: harmon
Backwoods Savage said:
Welcome to the forum harmon.

I only recently started researching stoves, I've never seen any of the new ones. I read about the internal fire bricks or tiles and forgot what they were called but that is what I meant by "insulated". I remembered what they were called when I read bluedogz post about them.



Insulated? Well, one would not want to insulate as then it would be difficult to get heat out of it. That englander can and will get hot. You don't want it getting red as that is way too hot but 700 - 750 would be no problem at all.
Click to expand...
 
Highbeam said:
I have that stove and it has a stove top thermometer. I have no problem getting the stove top to 700 and my normal operating range is 600-650. The stove top is not insulated of course, what you are seeing laying on top of the perforated burn tubes is a cermamic fiber baffle which acts to force the smoke back towards the loading door before running up under the bottom of the stove top in an S-curve fashion. Fire does indeed touch the bottom of the top plate before leaving the stove.

These stoves get just as hot as any stove you've ever operated before.
Click to expand...
thanks thats all I was trying to figure out as it will be used for cooking all my meals for a month or two
 
harmon said:
I am buying a house that needs much work (electrical, plumbing, etc) and going to buy this Englander
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-2-200-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-30-NCH/100291302#
before I start fixing anything else in the house (theres already a pipe running through the ceiling) I'm going to install the Stove and was wondering how hot these new stoves with internal fire bricks get on top. It will just be me working (and maybe a brother sometimes) and I will be living primitive for a good part if not the whole winter. Do the insulated stoves get hot enough to cook off (frying pan hot?)
Click to expand...
I do this on a regular basis. I have an englander 30 that i move from house to house as i rehab them. Even though the house is NOT insulated and does not get all that warm the stove provides a place to warm up if i get too cold while working there. Copper thieves recently broke in and stole my new wiring, but thankfully they left my much more valuable englander wood stove behind,i guess it was too heavy.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
House will get "too hot" with a wood stove?
Replies
12
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
begreen
begreen
B
Stove/insert recommendation - hot enough to cook
Replies
2
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
brownclown
B
T
Should I upgradeto a wood furnace add on or just upgrade my wood stove to one with a blower?
Replies
18
Views
808
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
thebettycrocker
T
Wheelhorse
Wood stove different placement for better heating house
Replies
10
Views
947
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
jeffreyscott
J
K
Wood Stove suggestions for new to me 2500 sqft house
Replies
18
Views
1K
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Wildflush
W
Top Bottom
Back