2013-2014 Blaze King Performance Thread(everything BK)

Rusty - The Ashford guys' symptoms do not sound like reverse-wound coils. I had one and the symptoms are easy to spot... the stove runs away because of the positive feedback... the stat just keeps opening and the stove keeps getting hotter. The burns are super-hot but short. For these guys, the stat seems to be working in the right direction. The alcove theory needs to be fully investigated. I'm sure it can keep a stat in a more closed position than it should be for a given stove temp.

Zanimal said:

That makes me sad. I also have a ranch. But with all new fancy windows.

How do you add a log when it is full without having the stove spew ash and coal on your floor?

Click to expand...

I never have anything fall out of the door. It burns down evenly, without having excess coals. Loads of excess coals is typically due to an undersized stove running full blast. I never let this stove run on high for more than 20 minutes or so, not even on the coldest days(-15F). 3 is the highest I have left it for the day. On high you shouldn't expect anymore than 10 hours or so.

webby3650 said:

It's barely broke freezing here in the past 24 hours, coming out of a deep freeze. Just reloaded. My wife added 1 log at lunchtime, that's the first time it's been touched in 24 hours. I will often turn the therm up for a time in the mornings, but unless its below freezing I don't reload until the evening.

Click to expand...

Although this post is meant to help it just frustrates me further. .

I have a to do list. We will see what happens. I want this stove to succeed. So does the dealer and bk.

shoot-straight said:

Although this post is meant to help it just frustrates me further. .

I have a to do list. We will see what happens. I want this stove to succeed. So does the dealer and bk.

Click to expand...

Hang in there shoot-straight......You've only had the stove a short time and certain factors need to be looked at and eliminated........Your dealer and BK will make this right ....They just need you to follow all the steps first to determine the action.

Same with you Zanimal

It was suggested that it was house that is the problem, not the stove. So I threw a standard 1,500 W oil space heater next to the stove after the stove died.
It's currently 66 degrees in here. The space heater is kicking the crap out of the hunk o iron that cost 100 times more.

I understand how adding height to the chimney may get me more heat. But when I flipped the flapper over and it burned like mad it used so much fuel so fast.
Can someone help me understand adding chimney will get me a longer burn time while also having the stove put off more heat?

Zanimal said:

It was suggested that it was house that is the problem, not the stove. So I threw a standard 1,500 W oil space heater next to the stove after the stove died.
It's currently 66 degrees in here. The space heater is kicking the crap out of the hunk o iron that cost 100 times more.

I understand how adding height to the chimney may get me more heat. But when I flipped the flapper over and it burned like mad it used so much fuel so fast.
Can someone help me understand adding chimney will get me a longer burn time while also having the stove put off more heat?

Click to expand...

I'm having a lot of trouble believing an oil heater is doing the job! 1500W is just that, no more. It can only produce that much heat, theres no special powers here! It's just a little heater.
I'm probably missing it somewhere, but do you have any other Woodstove experience? Just curious? I've never heard a complaint like this, ever. Not trying to beat you up here at all, I just don't understand, the Ashford is probably the best stove I've ever ran! It will have to pried from my cold dead fingers!

webby3650 said:

do have any other Woodstove experience?

Click to expand...

Not much and not with any modern stove.
There was an old Jotul F118 that cracked where the Ashford is now. That thing got nice and toasty. But I think the Ashford on high uses just as much fuel.
We also have a 40 year old VC Defiant in the basement. As has been said that thing will melt your face off and is very capable of over heating my whole house.

That being said I have been getting lots of advice from all parties on how to properly operate the stove. Dealer has been over a couple times to make sure I'm not doing something wrong as well. No difference.

webby3650 said:

I'm having a lot of trouble believing an oil heater is doing the job!

Click to expand...

This room is under 200 sq ft.

BrotherBart said:

Says his old VC Defiant heated to place fine so....

Click to expand...

Like I said, I might have missed it somewhere...

Zanimal said:

This room is under 200 sq ft.

Click to expand...

I just don't get it. I'm heating over 2,000 square feet and almost never run it on high. It's too much heat and a total waste of wood. Something is way off here.

webby3650 said:

total waste of wood

Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on the wood loss a little?
Where do you get near a 10 hour burn?
Also, what do you do with the coals? Everyone says rake them forward but I almost always have coals up to the brick. I notice that the stove has a lot of trouble getting air to the back. If I rake the coals forward and throw a chunk or two in the back even if I wait till they are flaming and chard as has been suggested they will go out and the stove will drop in temperature. They will often remain in their non-ignited state even on the maximum thermostat setting and when there are few to no glowing coals up front.

Zanimal said:

Can you elaborate on the wood loss a little?
Where do you get near a 10 hour burn?
Also, what do you do with the coals? Everyone says rake them forward but I almost always have coals up to the brick. I notice that the stove has a lot of trouble getting air to the back. If I rake the coals forward and throw a chunk or two in the back even if I wait till they are flaming and chard as has been suggested they will go out and the stove will drop in temperature. They will often remain in their non-ignited state even on the maximum thermostat setting and when there are few to no glowing coals up front.

Click to expand...

What you are describing is typically the result of burning under seasoned wood. That's the only way it's not gonna burn. I never do anything but add wood and occasionally clean out the ashes.
Have you checked the moisture content? It has to be a fresh split, and a high quality moisture meter is also helpful.

webby3650 said:

It has to be a fresh split, and a high quality moisture meter is also helpful.

Click to expand...

I did purchase a low quality moisture meter but returned it when all piles of wood seemed to have the same moisture. I did not know to split the wood. A high quality moisture meter seems to be an investment which I cannot make at the current time.
I will try the rake forward and load in the back technique with one of my certified dry stacks.

Zanimal said:

I did purchase a low quality moisture meter but returned it when all piles of wood seemed to have the same moisture. I did not know to split the wood. A high quality moisture meter seems to be an investment which I cannot make at the current time.
I will try the rake forward and load in the back technique with one of my certified dry stacks.

Click to expand...

A lot of us have the meter sold at Lowes and it works just fine, cost $30 I think it's a General.

I spread the coals out even and load north/south. It seems to be a better way to load most stoves. I have much better success this way. And fill it up, like 8-10 nice sized pieces. Once the cat is active(usually 10 minutes or so) shut the bypass. Leave it on high for 10-15, reduce it to 3, after another 20 minutes or so reduce it to 2.5 and that is where I leave it for the next 16-20 hours. If its super cold, I'll leave it on 3 and just reload it more often. Like 12 hours or so.

webby3650 said:

reduce it to 2.5 and that is where I leave it for the next 16-20 hours.

Click to expand...

Whoa.
So you really do get close to 10 hours on high then.

Do you have the fan going all the time?

I'm sure i would get every bit of 10 on high. I never leave it on high. BK's as well as other non-cat stoves will perform at their best once the primary air is reduced. With a cat stove they run their cleanest and most efficient on lower settings.

I am worried that my door seal may be leaking. Burn times are down and the low heat setting is making too much heat. I'm getting a more non-cat like peak-n-cruise type temperature swing in the house vs. the steady output I remember. I can still reload on coals without matches after 24 hours but not all the time.

I did the dollar bill test and the dollar bill always resists being pulled out but I haven't ripped a bill yet. Should the gasket rip the bill or just offer resistance to pullout?

Are some wood species better at keeping the cat active at lower stat settings? I am burning maple for the first time. Maybe I just need to turn it down and see if it stalls.

I've only pushed about 6 cords through this stove over 1.5 burn seasons.

I worry about cat damage from leaky door seals too though my cat seems to operate perfectly.

webby3650 said:

I spread the coals out even and load north/south. It seems to be a better way to load most stoves. I have much better success this way. And fill it up, like 8-10 nice sized pieces. Once the cat is active(usually 10 minutes or so) shut the bypass. Leave it on high for 10-15, reduce it to 3, after another 20 minutes or so reduce it to 2.5 and that is where I leave it for the next 16-20 hours. If its super cold, I'll leave it on 3 and just reload it more often. Like 12 hours or so.

Click to expand...

How long do you cut your splits to load north/south? Also, how low does the moisture content have to be for the Ashford?

Just bought around 6 cords of freshly cut Doug Fir (pictured below). Will be loaded in a new woodshed. I'm wondering how long it will have to season. Hoping to use it next winter in the new Ashford but will wait longer (and buy more seasoned wood for next year) if necessary.

Parallax said:

How long do you cut your splits to load north/south? Also, how low does the moisture content have to be for the Ashford?

Just bought around 6 cords of freshly cut Doug Fir (pictured below). Will be loaded in a new woodshed. I'm wondering how long it will have to season. Hoping to use it next winter in the new Ashford but will wait longer (and buy more seasoned wood for next year) if necessary.

View attachment 126349

Click to expand...

That doghair will dry fast. Be sure that your shed allows plenty of ventilation.

Highbeam said:

That doghair will dry fast. Be sure that your shed allows plenty of ventilation.

Click to expand...

doghair = Doug Fir?

PS: How fast is fast?

webby3650 said:

reduce it to 2.5 and that is where I leave it for the next 16-20 hours.

Click to expand...

Set mine on 2.25 this morning.
Got about 10 hours. Of course the heat output was not consistent at all.
Curve made a nice arc rising from 58 at 7 am, maxed out at 64 at 1 pm, then started falling to end up about 61 by 5 pm.

10 hours at 2.5 doesn't sound too bad... That's what I would expect with my princess this time of year. Your temps seem a little off, but that may be because you are starting very low. I never let my house drop below 68 because it is hard to get back up. (Propane)

Also, I see the temperature swing too. I turn up the thermostat when the wood is mostly coals.

I figure if the low is going to be 12 degrees f, I can get a 12 hour burn at 2.25.

If the low is going to be 24 degrees f, I can get a 20-24 hour burn at 1.5. Although I do struggle with stalling due to marginal draft.

2200 sq ft, medium insulation, keeping house at 72. Wood has a huge impact on performance. Pine/ popple = shorter burn times. Birch/ Tamarac = longer burn times

Webby3650,
Do you have an active flame at 2.25?