2013-2014 Blaze King Performance Thread(everything BK)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
I just use the gasket with nothing else and flip it now and then..works for me and never falls out.
 
I did purchase some Honey Locust seedlings a while back. Out of the bunch one made it, it's amazing how quickly it's growing. I've gathered Black Locust seeds on occasion and scattered them around the back, my wife won't let me plant any Black Locust in the yard due to their thorns. <>

Yeah, those honey locust thorns aren't bad ;lol

CAM00216.jpg
 
Good plan.
My only concern with that is that the pieces I typically see in those bundles are small.
I think I will try anyway and let you all know.


Hey Zanimal,

While you are testing the kiln dried store wood , Try this..........Take the cast top off the stove in between loads and run a load without it.........HOLY COW !....Its Hot !......I just did it for the first time and you could roast marshmallows over the top of the stove............Sheeesh !:eek:
 
The only suggestions I can make that I know makes a difference is to stick with the BK specific gasket and use HT silicon(recommended by BK) instead of gasket cement.(suggested by stove shop) I had to do mine twice due to being sold the wrong gasket the first time. I didn't do anything special laying the new gasket it place, I didn't try stretch it out or fluff it up in one place more than another.
Did you cut yours at all ? Or does it come per cut to length. I have the princess and I was sent a 6 ft length. Seemed a little long. Or are you suppose to bunch it in so it provides more volume and longer lasting as adjustments in the door latch are made. I ended up cutting about 4 inches of mine. I also found that the hinge side was much tighter and took a few days of the door closed to compress allowing a better seal at the latch side.
 
First round of kiln dried wood made no difference.
Set it to the end of the normal zone at 2 1/4.
I did not take the top off. I do not think that is proper use of the stove.

It's cold in here.
 

Attachments

  • Room Temps.png
    Room Temps.png
    24.8 KB · Views: 179
  • living room.jpg
    living room.jpg
    133.1 KB · Views: 192
  • 10 ft from stove.jpg
    10 ft from stove.jpg
    160.9 KB · Views: 217
First round of kiln dried wood made no difference.
Set it to the end of the normal zone at 2 1/4.
I did not take the top off. I do not think that is proper use of the stove.

It's cold in here.

Have you checked where the t-stat flapper closes on a stone cold stove vs. a hot stove? Do you have active flames at 2 1/4?
 
Have you checked where the t-stat flapper closes on a stone cold stove vs. a hot stove?
I have not. We are trying to use this as our main source of heat mostly because my wife cannot breath with the oil furnace on. Also, I have been trying lots of suggestions to see if it makes any difference so the stove is not really cold very often.


Do you have active flames at 2 1/4?
I have a small amount of flame right now because there is fuel near the glass. After it burns for a little while I will not see much flame if any at all.

I also do not see how the flue can be a constant 300 degrees like their brochure says. The outside of my double wall pipe is hanging at 250 20 inches from the top of the stove.
 
Has your dealer been involved at all? Besides bringing you some different wood? I'd be jumping up and down till I got some help. Or call Blaze King. Or PM BKVP.

It sounds to me like a thermostat issue. The little offset in the pipe can't be affecting draft that much. Get any smoke spillage when you open the door?
 
Here's an Ashford question. Does anyone know if it will hold 22 inch splits? If so, will be cheaper to buy wood -- at least from one particular dealer. Thanks.
 
The outside of my double wall pipe is hanging at 250 20 inches from the top of the stove.

Interesting. 250 on the outside of double wall pipe is quite hot. The internal temp of my double wall is 500 or so on high burns which would correspond with 250 on the outside of single wall but much less on the outside of double wall. The fire is burning hot enough for cat lightoff.

You really ought to have a proper probe meter for measuring flue temps but 250 on the outside of double wall is hot.

You've burned kiln dried wood, so we can rule out wood quality. Your interior flue looks okay and from the ceiling up is another 8 feet or more of good class A so your flue is fine. Draft is fine.

Opening a door, cracking a window makes no difference.

Given the high flue temps and low stove temps I now suspect your cat is dead. True, it doesn't need to be glowing to be working but it should glow on a new stove and the cat is the real heat source here.

So of the big four (wood, cat, draft, and stat), I suspect your cat is dead.
 
Here's an Ashford question. Does anyone know if it will hold 22 inch splits? If so, will be cheaper to buy wood -- at least from one particular dealer. Thanks.

Never mind. Looks from the manual that the box is just 20" wide.
 
You've burned kiln dried wood, so we can rule out wood quality. Your interior flue looks okay and from the ceiling up is another 8 feet or more of good class A so your flue is fine. Draft is fine.

I thought he said he has two 45's so I'm not sure I'd rule out draft just yet. The dealer has to get his arse over there and solve this for him. If my house was 50 degrees I'd be making a stink.
 
Interesting. 250 on the outside of double wall pipe is quite hot. The internal temp of my double wall is 500 or so on high burns which would correspond with 250 on the outside of single wall but much less on the outside of double wall. The fire is burning hot enough for cat lightoff.

You really ought to have a proper probe meter for measuring flue temps but 250 on the outside of double wall is hot.

You've burned kiln dried wood, so we can rule out wood quality. Your interior flue looks okay and from the ceiling up is another 8 feet or more of good class A so your flue is fine. Draft is fine.

Opening a door, cracking a window makes no difference.

Given the high flue temps and low stove temps I now suspect your cat is dead. True, it doesn't need to be glowing to be working but it should glow on a new stove and the cat is the real heat source here.

So of the big four (wood, cat, draft, and stat), I suspect your cat is dead.

I'm thinking he's missing his by-pass door now or it's broke with his temp that high on double yet hardly any heat is coming off the stove?
 
I thought he said he has two 45's so I'm not sure I'd rule out draft just yet. The dealer has to get his arse over there and solve this for him. If my house was 50 degrees I'd be making a stink.

I feel I can rule it out because it is double wall, a back to back offset, and all vertical after that. Pretty easy to snake up through that flue. The BK doesn't flow much volume of gas up the flue and since he is able to get such a hot pipe he is moving the gas just fine.

How can you "prove" a cat is dead? A new cat in a new stove should easily glow. After 6 cords through my BK, I still almost always have a glowing cat.

Do these ashfords use steel cats?
 
It can only be so many things.
Something wrong with the wood or draft(flue) or the stove itself...maybe a combo platter.
You know for a fact the by-pass is fine?
 
Do
The three major parties are all involved.
Dealer,
Blaze King,
And the knowledgeable people on hearth.com

Just curious and not sure if you answered the question or not about smoke pouring out of the stove into the room of you open the door?

Reason is my chimney systems going to be very similar to yours and I'm hoping it's not a draft issue.
 
He said earlier it doesn't.
 
Ok copy. Wasn't sure.
Yeah the way he talks the draft is fine..wood is fine. Stove top has been to 600 but cat temps and cat die out fast ..can't cruise.
I'm starting to think there is a prob with his by pass because he has fairly high stack temps compared to stove top...but who knows .
 
While I'm here I gotta say last night was cold and windy. I think like -20 with the wind.
First time since I put the stove in that it struggled.
The electric forced air furnace started kicking in like at 3am..it's set for 65. I have the heat pump locked out.
 
Interesting. 250 on the outside of double wall pipe is quite hot. The internal temp of my double wall is 500 or so on high burns which would correspond with 250 on the outside of single wall but much less on the outside of double wall. The fire is burning hot enough for cat lightoff.

I see 300+ on the outside of my double wall early in the burn while I'm dialing the stove down.

So of the big four (wood, cat, draft, and stat), I suspect your cat is dead.

Even if the stat stayed closed the whole burn the cat shouldn't be going inactive if the wood, draft and cat are good. I can set my stat at 12 o'clock and it will burn the full load. I'm find it hard to believe the cat is bad out of the box but who knows at this point!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.